964 Engine Rebuild
06-26-2006, 09:58 AM
#17
Professor of Pending Projects
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Excellent documentation of the rebuild. Thank you for taking the time to snap photos and sharing them with the forum. Keep them coming!
06-26-2006, 07:52 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The cost is high. I havent added up all the bills. Machining and parts the machine shop supplied was $4500 usd, used late style pistons/cylinders was $800 usd, clutch parts were $2000 usd, there was another couple thousand in parts from Pelican.
It costs alot to rebuild a porsche engine.
If you were going to do a top end reseal only, it wouldn't be too bad. In my case as I took apart the engine, I realised the previous shops that had been in there shouldn't have been. A hacked up job of valve guides in the cars past, required every valve to be replaced. Cams were pitted, etc etc etc.
Its a long and painful list.
Kirk
It costs alot to rebuild a porsche engine.
If you were going to do a top end reseal only, it wouldn't be too bad. In my case as I took apart the engine, I realised the previous shops that had been in there shouldn't have been. A hacked up job of valve guides in the cars past, required every valve to be replaced. Cams were pitted, etc etc etc.
Its a long and painful list.
Kirk
06-26-2006, 07:59 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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Yeah, I'm debating whether or not I'll ever add up my costs unless I sell the car. And this way, I'll never have to tell the wife because I honestly don't know. "A few thousand" is technically accurate at this point. 
06-26-2006, 08:25 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I don't mention much about the costs around the house. Touchy subject...
Did you have any problems with the rear main seal popping out when you mated the case halves? Or did you put yours in afterwards? Mine would not stay still while I was doing the perimeter bolts. I gave up in the end and took it out. I'll have to take the motor off the stand next week to put it in.
Kirk
Did you have any problems with the rear main seal popping out when you mated the case halves? Or did you put yours in afterwards? Mine would not stay still while I was doing the perimeter bolts. I gave up in the end and took it out. I'll have to take the motor off the stand next week to put it in.
Kirk
06-26-2006, 09:17 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by KirkF
The cost is high. I havent added up all the bills. Machining and parts the machine shop supplied was $4500 usd, used late style pistons/cylinders was $800 usd, clutch parts were $2000 usd, there was another couple thousand in parts from Pelican.
It costs alot to rebuild a porsche engine.
If you were going to do a top end reseal only, it wouldn't be too bad. In my case as I took apart the engine, I realised the previous shops that had been in there shouldn't have been. A hacked up job of valve guides in the cars past, required every valve to be replaced. Cams were pitted, etc etc etc.
Its a long and painful list.
Kirk
It costs alot to rebuild a porsche engine.
If you were going to do a top end reseal only, it wouldn't be too bad. In my case as I took apart the engine, I realised the previous shops that had been in there shouldn't have been. A hacked up job of valve guides in the cars past, required every valve to be replaced. Cams were pitted, etc etc etc.
Its a long and painful list.
Kirk
06-26-2006, 10:18 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
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Kirk... WOW! What a beautiful job! I/We really appreciate you snapping the pics (as Jaime said) and posting them... They are absolutely beautiful! I wish I had the space... and time for this project.
06-27-2006, 01:04 AM
#24
Pro
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Kirk,
Great Job! You make it look sooo easy... ;-)
Question: What made you decide to split the case: Crank bearings? High mileage? Oil Analysis?
Based on your comments I don't see the true reason. Not that you have to explain yourself of course! I'm just trying to understand what is the driver to take all this to the deepest level
Thanks
Jasper
Great Job! You make it look sooo easy... ;-)
Question: What made you decide to split the case: Crank bearings? High mileage? Oil Analysis?
Based on your comments I don't see the true reason. Not that you have to explain yourself of course! I'm just trying to understand what is the driver to take all this to the deepest level
Thanks
Jasper
06-27-2006, 01:44 AM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Jasper,
I had initially intended on just resealing the top end and leaving it at that, but in the end I decided to split the case because:
1. The motor has 120k miles on it.
2. After all the work to dissassemble the motor down to the case, it seemed like a waste not to change the main bearings/intermediate shaft bearings and timing chains. They are some of the least expensive items. (and they had 120k...)
3. I had oil leaking from some of the case throughbolts, and given the work I had seen on the rest of the engine, I definetly had to check the crank as well.
So thats what got me to this point...
(And on many an occasion I wish I had never started it.)
Kirk
I had initially intended on just resealing the top end and leaving it at that, but in the end I decided to split the case because:
1. The motor has 120k miles on it.
2. After all the work to dissassemble the motor down to the case, it seemed like a waste not to change the main bearings/intermediate shaft bearings and timing chains. They are some of the least expensive items. (and they had 120k...)
3. I had oil leaking from some of the case throughbolts, and given the work I had seen on the rest of the engine, I definetly had to check the crank as well.
So thats what got me to this point...
(And on many an occasion I wish I had never started it.)
Kirk
06-27-2006, 03:30 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
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Yeah, I didn't have a problem with the main seal because I learned my lesson with the intermediate shaft seal - don't use too much curil-T - or whatever else you're using. An ULTRA light coat is all you need. And, hmm, if I'm not mistaken I think I put it on before mating the halves - though you should be able to put it on after if you have to.
You're work is an inspiration - I just dropped my motor tonight. 4 hours. I'm getting better at this than I ever wanted to be
You're work is an inspiration - I just dropped my motor tonight. 4 hours. I'm getting better at this than I ever wanted to be
06-27-2006, 10:06 AM
#27
I've seen a number of posts about pulling the motor and the difficulty in getting it under the rear bumper. Either the back end needs to go dangerously high, or the bumper needs to come off.
Has anyone pulled the intake manifold while in the car and then pulled the engine? Seems like it would make the extraction easier at a lower rear end height. And, I would guess that the intakes come off straight away any way.
Just curious.
Thanks,
Dave
Has anyone pulled the intake manifold while in the car and then pulled the engine? Seems like it would make the extraction easier at a lower rear end height. And, I would guess that the intakes come off straight away any way.
Just curious.
Thanks,
Dave
06-27-2006, 11:24 AM
#29
Nordschleife Master
Use a second jack and a wide board under the transmission mounting bolt holes in the chassis. Jack the body of the car up high enough to slide the engine out and then let it back down on the jack stands. Been doing it this way forever and works well, including turbo engines.
06-27-2006, 12:06 PM
#30
Kirk,
Looking like you're dong a good job on the rebuild.
As you torn down the bottom end & taking measurements, were any of the components (crank, crank bearings, piston, cylinder, rings, etc.) out of spec? This would serve as another data point on wear on the bottom end of the 3.6.
Why aren't you upgrading to the 3.8 piston/cylinder?
Another thing, whenever/whereever possible, use the green VITON seals!!!!
---
anthony
Looking like you're dong a good job on the rebuild.
As you torn down the bottom end & taking measurements, were any of the components (crank, crank bearings, piston, cylinder, rings, etc.) out of spec? This would serve as another data point on wear on the bottom end of the 3.6.
Why aren't you upgrading to the 3.8 piston/cylinder?
Another thing, whenever/whereever possible, use the green VITON seals!!!!
---
anthony
