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Old 05-02-2006, 01:28 PM
  #196  
jimq
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Originally Posted by Heirsh
What I am fabricating today for the connector is a block of plastic with tapped holes for the conenctor location. What I call banana plugs (no clue what they are really called) come in a 1/4-28 tapped variety so I will simply thread them in the holes. Solder in the wires and voila, a working connector.

The little block will probably take me all of 10 minutes to drill and tap. I don't know how readily available the connectors are, and the pins themselves that I am using require modifications to work (I have lots of junk lying around). I am by no means saying it is a better way than the real connector.

If the connector group buy you guys are doing doesnt work out I could help out with a properly drilled block, like mine, for pins someone else specs out that will work. A turned piece of aluminum the proper od would make a nice pin, but thats too much work. Anyway, if you guys need an alternative connector let me know if I can help.
I like your idea! I havent taken a close look at the plug yet but if you go forward with your idea i may buy one from you if it works the same. keep us informed as to cost and such. I am still waiting for confirmation on my interface i ordered last week.
Old 05-02-2006, 02:37 PM
  #197  
John Speake
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Hello
I would prefer if it can be organised that one person places an order for 5 connector sets and pays for all five, this gives me just one set of paperwork and postage.

Otherwise it is not an cost effective use of my time. Any of you are welcome to collect in person, cash in hand...
Old 05-02-2006, 05:13 PM
  #198  
Ruairidh
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Does anyone know if this would work as the requisite serial cable?

http://www.cablewholesale.com/popupspecs/10d1-03406.htm
Old 05-02-2006, 06:05 PM
  #199  
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That cable should be OK, according to the data sheet it's straight wired (1-1). I'm also interested in a group buy for the connector, had my confirmation e-mail from ecufix.com
Old 05-02-2006, 07:48 PM
  #200  
Heirsh
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This is what I came up with. It turned out much more involved than I had originally intended, but you know what happens when youstarting improving things.

A much simpler version, and just as workable, is just the front you see with the pins. The shield around the back and clamp isn't needed.

Its not a good connector in that the pins dont float any. On the other hand it doesnt have to survivie any vibrations and 100,000 miles. It works fine.
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Old 05-04-2006, 02:15 AM
  #201  
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Unless someone else has already made such arrangements, I've been in touch with John about acting as a Canadian distribution point for this connector set, to reduce his hassles (and costs) in shipping orders into Canada. One payment to him from me, one shipping charge for us *to share*. You pay me before I ship to you by whatever transport method you want.

Groups of five or more are required. Your unit price from me will be John's unit price plus his shipping costs to Edmonton AB, plus any brokerage and duty I have to pay to receive the shipment, plus shipping charges from Edmonton to your location, all in C$.

For example (using ficticious numbers), if John's unit price is US$80 and it costs him US$30 to ship me 5 units to Edmonton, and I have to pay a total of US$10 brokerage and duty to take delivery, the unit price FOB Edmonton will be:

[(5 * US$80) + US$30 + US$10] / 5 = US$440/5 = US$88

converted to C$ at the exchange rate in effect when the conversion takes place. Shipping costs from me to your location will be extra, and will be charged to you at my cost, also in C$. Actual price to you will be determined by how many are in the group purchase (more is less).

All Canucks who are interested in John's connector kit and a group buy should contact me at "964 at f11.mailshell.com". I'll need:

- full name
- street number + address
- phone number
- email address
- how many connector sets you want
- how you want me to ship the connector set to you

I'll email all buyers when John's package arrives, confirm all pricing and shipping instructions, then ship to you once you've paid me (PayPal + personal cheques are fine, but pls don't send me your cc info - I can't use it and don't want it!).

I'll post when I've lined up enough buyers for an order, and latecomers can join in if they're quick enough. If this is agreeable, then I'll start taking orders now.

Rod
Old 05-11-2006, 06:15 PM
  #202  
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Finally got my interface this afternoon after it sat at my post office for 4 days without delivery I signed the registered slip that was left in my mail box as marked and it never got brought back! After a quick call this morning I tracked it down.
Got the connector wires connected thanks to Heirsh "spirit of Rennlist" plug and discovered my 9 pin is gender wrong so off to find a genderbender plug tonite.
Its always something. I am off to Houston for the weekend tomorrow so GOT to get it working tonite or I will be thinking about it all weekend
Old 05-11-2006, 08:41 PM
  #203  
jimq
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It works Had a bit of problems connecting at first but found I needed to change to the outside jumper and cut the connecting flashing LED on the interface. Connected right up after that. I am not getting a reading on the ABS/Traction control setting so when I get back to town sunday I will build a box for the interface and solder my connector pins up. May just be a contact problem.
A big thanks to all that worked so hard on the program and described different things to try to get it working
Old 05-11-2006, 09:10 PM
  #204  
Heirsh
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Excellent Jim!

Just dont do like me and watch the ox sensor signal the whole way to work.
Old 05-12-2006, 03:44 AM
  #205  
LeRoux Strydom
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The ABS/traction module only works on a C4, not a C2.
Old 05-12-2006, 06:52 AM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by LeRoux Strydom
The ABS/traction module only works on a C4, not a C2.
Thanks
Old 05-13-2006, 05:43 PM
  #207  
Laurence Gibbs
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would be good for those with working setups to post what there set up is. So we can establish what works and what does'nt. I.e. what operating system and pc did you use.
I have just bought a second hand laptop a Dell lattitude P3 and i have not got it working yet. Will try the led cutting trick next. Heirsh are you supplying the plugs you made, they look like a good alternative?
Old 05-13-2006, 06:32 PM
  #208  
Heirsh
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I am using a thinkpad 760 xd running ME. No trouble out of it.

Laurence,

I've made a couple for people. They arent as elaborate as the one I made for myself and posted above, but they actually fit the socket better. I can make more, but I wont be able to do it quickly as I've got some other things going on that need my lunch hours for a while.
Old 05-13-2006, 07:05 PM
  #209  
LouZ
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Originally Posted by jimq
Finally got my interface this afternoon after it sat at my post office for 4 days without delivery I signed the registered slip that was left in my mail box as marked and it never got brought back! After a quick call this morning I tracked it down.
:
Still havn't received my interface! It's like being 7 years old again waiting for the toy to come in the mail.

Unfortunately, the tracking from the Royal Post in G.B. only shows that it was transferred to the U.S. mail service.

Besides JimQ, did any other U.S.'ers order in late April and get theirs?
Old 05-14-2006, 05:42 AM
  #210  
LeRoux Strydom
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My setup works on an old Pentium desktop machine running Windows 2000, using a regular serial cable with both LED's disconnected on Andy Whittaker's interface board.

I tried running a laptop with a USB-serial converter, but could not get it working. I have yet to try a PCMCIA serial card in the laptop.


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