Headlight Relay Kit: plug-and-play no-cut integrated w/Central Electric... interest?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Headlight Relay Kit: plug-and-play no-cut integrated w/Central Electric... interest?
Hi all
I designed a H4 relay kit for my car, intended to be as invisible, high quality and Porschey as possible. In doing so I learned a lot and invested a ton in tooling, terminals and skills. I think it may be of use to others so I'm posting to poll interest. Thanks to the community here for help along the way.
The kit is entirely integrated with Central Electrics aka frunk mounted fuse box. I activated empty fuse and relay positions. No factory wires are cut or vampired whatsoever. Two factory wires are de-pinned to serve as triggers. Using a supplied tool, these are removed intact and can be reconnected if you want to go concourse. There are no externally visible components. I wanted to avoid the frunk-clutter common to these installs such as relays mounted on brackets, in line fuses or new connections to the battery. All wiring runs in black abrasion resistant sheathing and follows existing runs, re-uses existing grommets. Ceramic H4 terminals are included. If you are planning to swap from H5>H4, this will save you ~$30 for the adapters you'd need. Factory headlight connectors are abandoned intact, in the buckets. The kit uses 12ga wiring for high beams and 14ga for low. This is to save weight and make the wires easier to pass thru grommets (the most annoying part of the install). I plan to run 80/100w bulbs but see no reason the brave (and well aimed) couldn't go to 100/130. Different gauge wiring may be available by request.
Cost before shipping will be approx $155 or $125 without the de-pinning tool. I strongly recommend the tool, it is quite specialized and I do not believe a generic would do. Detailed install instructions will be included and every wire is labeled using factory nomenclature. The only special tool you need to supply is a generic open-barrel non-insulated terminal crimper. This is to allow the headlight wiring to enter the buckets without terminals crimped on. If you don't own one - I've tested with the terminals the kit is supplied with.
The kit looks simple but is made of a dizzying array of parts all of which are either Genuine Porsche, TE/AMP or Molex. The good stuff. Sourcing is a pain so I'm taking interest now to stock up for ~Jan/Feb shipping. PM your email and shipping address to be added to my first-come list.
Photo of prototype. long runs to headlight buckets not shown and will be encased in abrasion resistant sheathing.
I designed a H4 relay kit for my car, intended to be as invisible, high quality and Porschey as possible. In doing so I learned a lot and invested a ton in tooling, terminals and skills. I think it may be of use to others so I'm posting to poll interest. Thanks to the community here for help along the way.
The kit is entirely integrated with Central Electrics aka frunk mounted fuse box. I activated empty fuse and relay positions. No factory wires are cut or vampired whatsoever. Two factory wires are de-pinned to serve as triggers. Using a supplied tool, these are removed intact and can be reconnected if you want to go concourse. There are no externally visible components. I wanted to avoid the frunk-clutter common to these installs such as relays mounted on brackets, in line fuses or new connections to the battery. All wiring runs in black abrasion resistant sheathing and follows existing runs, re-uses existing grommets. Ceramic H4 terminals are included. If you are planning to swap from H5>H4, this will save you ~$30 for the adapters you'd need. Factory headlight connectors are abandoned intact, in the buckets. The kit uses 12ga wiring for high beams and 14ga for low. This is to save weight and make the wires easier to pass thru grommets (the most annoying part of the install). I plan to run 80/100w bulbs but see no reason the brave (and well aimed) couldn't go to 100/130. Different gauge wiring may be available by request.
Cost before shipping will be approx $155 or $125 without the de-pinning tool. I strongly recommend the tool, it is quite specialized and I do not believe a generic would do. Detailed install instructions will be included and every wire is labeled using factory nomenclature. The only special tool you need to supply is a generic open-barrel non-insulated terminal crimper. This is to allow the headlight wiring to enter the buckets without terminals crimped on. If you don't own one - I've tested with the terminals the kit is supplied with.
The kit looks simple but is made of a dizzying array of parts all of which are either Genuine Porsche, TE/AMP or Molex. The good stuff. Sourcing is a pain so I'm taking interest now to stock up for ~Jan/Feb shipping. PM your email and shipping address to be added to my first-come list.
Photo of prototype. long runs to headlight buckets not shown and will be encased in abrasion resistant sheathing.
Last edited by r-mm; 01-15-2021 at 09:07 PM.
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#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks all. PM your email address (for paypal invoice) shipping address and note if you want the tool or not and I'll add you to my list. Will contact with a complete invoice inclusive of shipping when the kits are ready to go out.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I don't know anything about LED/HID headlamps. The principal of keeping current out of the headlight switch is a universal positive, but whether or not its worth it for LEDs I can't say.
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#9
Rennlist Member
Haha, no way. @boostedt0y made me buy that M5, and now its one of my favorites to drive. So underrated. Sold 72 for a black 1967 911. I have issues....
And ok, I will. Thanks again for making that kit dude
And ok, I will. Thanks again for making that kit dude
#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
You got it.
When I was hunting for my next cool-daily I didn't think I'd afford a 964. E28 M5 and E30 320is 'Portuguese M3' were both finalists...
When I was hunting for my next cool-daily I didn't think I'd afford a 964. E28 M5 and E30 320is 'Portuguese M3' were both finalists...
#11
Rennlist Member
If you ever get the itch again, i highly recommend it. Dont get me wrong, I love e30's, but when I drove the M5 and the M3 back to back, all day I choose the M5. I get it, M3 front end is probably one of the most iconic cars in auto history. Its gorgeous. But driving wise, you get 4 doors, much more torque and power from that sweet inline 6. It really did blow me away
#13
Rennlist Member
Make sure you include clear instructions for those of us who are electrically challenged.
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Most certainly. I invested in the heat shrink label maker to keep things clear. My instructions are step-by-step and show you how to check your work before going too far. For instance I'll show you how to jumper power to the fuses, check you got it right then move on to the relays.
#15
Banned
Haha, no way. @boostedt0y made me buy that M5, and now its one of my favorites to drive. So underrated. Sold 72 for a black 1967 911. I have issues....
And ok, I will. Thanks again for making that kit dude
And ok, I will. Thanks again for making that kit dude