Lost in the forest...time for a C4 rebuild
#226
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You may want to print a paper degree wheel, tape/tack to the crank pulley and follow this TDC process to see how far off the mark is.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2CxwYtjEjGI
If it helps, I can loan you a Stomski TDC tool but it will take a few days to get there. Just let me know.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2CxwYtjEjGI
If it helps, I can loan you a Stomski TDC tool but it will take a few days to get there. Just let me know.
Since the engine is in the car I'm going to start with the low-tech dowel in the spark plug port to find TDC then see if/how far off the Z1 mark is.
#227
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don't forget to pop the distributor cap off and check that mark also. If you don't want to pop the engine out right now If you find the pulley mark off you could paint a mark to set everything up just to see If it run's.
#228
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Thanks for the offer, but I have the Z-block and have been timing the cams initially with that and a mechanical rocker, but used the factory 993 cam tools this last go-round since I have 993 cams/lifters.
Since the engine is in the car I'm going to start with the low-tech dowel in the spark plug port to find TDC then see if/how far off the Z1 mark is.
Since the engine is in the car I'm going to start with the low-tech dowel in the spark plug port to find TDC then see if/how far off the Z1 mark is.
Pete
#229
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Well...the pulley was reassembled correctly. TDC #1 lines right up with the red Z1 mark on the pulley, and the distributors line up to the tick marks...
I am well and truly at a loss.
I am well and truly at a loss.
#230
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are you sure you have the firing order right. I watched your video again and the way it tried to start almost like the firing order is off like it bound up for a second before it cranked. just recheck it. so hard when I can't see it.
#231
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It sure does sound like the firing order is off, though, doesn’t it?
Last edited by F/51 LRS; 07-24-2020 at 08:44 PM.
#232
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did you get to try another computer just for the hell of it? maybe it got hurt from your injector wires shorting. and when you checked the firing order you made sure they way the distributor rotates.
#233
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Yessir, clockwise from the screw starting with cylinder 1.
#235
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when you made the new injector wiring harness did you go from the plug by the fuse box to the injectors? also you have all the wires in the right place. positives all go together it's the negatives that go in order. I'm just thinking this is something you touched.
Last edited by wallra; 07-25-2020 at 01:11 PM.
#236
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I confirmed spark at all 6 exhaust plugs (easier than intake). For the injector plugs, I just bought plugs with pigtails on them and spliced them in individually. I kept the wire orientation the same as the OEM plugs.
I have one of the local 911 gurus coming by the garage Tuesday to take a look at it.
I have one of the local 911 gurus coming by the garage Tuesday to take a look at it.
#237
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Potential progress! Going through anything and everything and it turns out my hydraulic lifters have non-existent seals. The theory here is that they're not holding oil pressure therefore collapsing under load causing issues similar to cam timing being off.
So, as things stand here are the options I'm considering:
The benefits of the mechanical set up is 1) I know the profile and it's deliberately chosen for my application 2) more stable for track use
The draw back 1) $2K in cost is a lot to stomach 2) adjustments every ~15K miles.
I'm not overly concerned about the adjustment aspect, it's a couple hours every other year realistically.
What do you guys think? Advise? Anyone have a screaming deal on a good used set of rocker arms/lifters/rocker arm rods?
So, as things stand here are the options I'm considering:
- Buy new hydraulic lifters, install, and hope everything turns up great
- Send cams out to be re-profiled (Dougherty) to a DC21 profile and buy mechanical lifters
- Buy DC21/DC24 cams from Dougherty and buy mechanical lifters
The benefits of the mechanical set up is 1) I know the profile and it's deliberately chosen for my application 2) more stable for track use
The draw back 1) $2K in cost is a lot to stomach 2) adjustments every ~15K miles.
I'm not overly concerned about the adjustment aspect, it's a couple hours every other year realistically.
What do you guys think? Advise? Anyone have a screaming deal on a good used set of rocker arms/lifters/rocker arm rods?
#239
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Potential progress! Going through anything and everything and it turns out my hydraulic lifters have non-existent seals. The theory here is that they're not holding oil pressure therefore collapsing under load causing issues similar to cam timing being off.
So, as things stand here are the options I'm considering:
The benefits of the mechanical set up is 1) I know the profile and it's deliberately chosen for my application 2) more stable for track use
The draw back 1) $2K in cost is a lot to stomach 2) adjustments every ~15K miles.
I'm not overly concerned about the adjustment aspect, it's a couple hours every other year realistically.
What do you guys think? Advise? Anyone have a screaming deal on a good used set of rocker arms/lifters/rocker arm rods?
So, as things stand here are the options I'm considering:
- Buy new hydraulic lifters, install, and hope everything turns up great
- Send cams out to be re-profiled (Dougherty) to a DC21 profile and buy mechanical lifters
- Buy DC21/DC24 cams from Dougherty and buy mechanical lifters
The benefits of the mechanical set up is 1) I know the profile and it's deliberately chosen for my application 2) more stable for track use
The draw back 1) $2K in cost is a lot to stomach 2) adjustments every ~15K miles.
I'm not overly concerned about the adjustment aspect, it's a couple hours every other year realistically.
What do you guys think? Advise? Anyone have a screaming deal on a good used set of rocker arms/lifters/rocker arm rods?
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