Chronicling the restoration and rebuild of Wilbur, the Pig
#901
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Thread Starter
Here’s another shot with the part number. Also the part number for the rubber hose (mine had been recently replaced, but I bought an extra just in case). Some folks cut the hose for easier removal, but the pipe slides right out.
#902
Oil change went smoothly that made me laugh!
#904
Jim- I saw your post on the 245/285 thread and want to post up this thought on how you might be able to get enough camber with the original 964 longs before you go off and buy a new set of wheels. As it turns out with the MCS shocks and using stock hardware the camber adjustment is limited (probably unintentionally) by design- basically, almost entirely to the top mount adjustment. The stock 993 captive nuts and any washers interfere with the MCS's. Check it out..
Full neg camber the captive nut hits the inner tab. This tab is not needed. It is used on the bolt head side if using the factory adjuster which is an eccentric tool that fits over the bolt head and is rotated to adjust the bolt position in the slot. That said in our situation where the adjustment can be made with the top hat we will simply put this setting at mad neg camber anyway so actually the tabs are not needed on either the bolt or the nut sides. I think MCS simply uses the tabbed part on both sides out of production convenience:
Here you can see the remaining room for adjustment in the slot with the captive nut pushed back out of the way. The adjustment is in the middle- so there is a decent amount left. Whether this is enough adjustment to allow for the original 964 long tor not I'm not sure- but I'd measure it at full negative both on the top hat and here below and see how degree's of wiggle room are left.
Here it is pushed to max neg camber. In my case with the 993rs uprights there is just a little room left for adjustment if I were to clearance the strut just a bit in front of my index finger as it hits the upright- but were talking about probably 1/2 a degree.
So by simply removing the tab that the captive nut is hitting you can get a 2-3mm more adjustment out of that slot. Given that the 993 longs are purportedly about 5mm or so further outboard it may be enough.
Not sure if this is a solution for you but had to mention it just in case. At any rate MCS users should be aware of this.
Pete
Full neg camber the captive nut hits the inner tab. This tab is not needed. It is used on the bolt head side if using the factory adjuster which is an eccentric tool that fits over the bolt head and is rotated to adjust the bolt position in the slot. That said in our situation where the adjustment can be made with the top hat we will simply put this setting at mad neg camber anyway so actually the tabs are not needed on either the bolt or the nut sides. I think MCS simply uses the tabbed part on both sides out of production convenience:
Here you can see the remaining room for adjustment in the slot with the captive nut pushed back out of the way. The adjustment is in the middle- so there is a decent amount left. Whether this is enough adjustment to allow for the original 964 long tor not I'm not sure- but I'd measure it at full negative both on the top hat and here below and see how degree's of wiggle room are left.
Here it is pushed to max neg camber. In my case with the 993rs uprights there is just a little room left for adjustment if I were to clearance the strut just a bit in front of my index finger as it hits the upright- but were talking about probably 1/2 a degree.
So by simply removing the tab that the captive nut is hitting you can get a 2-3mm more adjustment out of that slot. Given that the 993 longs are purportedly about 5mm or so further outboard it may be enough.
Not sure if this is a solution for you but had to mention it just in case. At any rate MCS users should be aware of this.
Pete
#905
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Pete,
There may be gold here! Thank you for taking the time to post your thoughts, and photos.
Ironically, I think you first suggested trying the 993 Longitudes Lol. But looking back you were also expressing concerns about wheel fitment, and suggested possibly slotting the MCS. Hindsight is 20/20, but that was foresight.
In another BBI install thread, Bill V was also adamant that 993 longitudes shouldn’t be necessary on RS carriers.
The car is heading up to Exotech next month to drop and re-gear the transmission. I’ll take another look at MCS struts, and see if that flange was the problem. I would be happy to get back to the 964 longitudes, and that 5mm just might make the difference to allow me to run with 235’s up front (or perhaps even 245’s).
Thanks again Pete,
Jim
There may be gold here! Thank you for taking the time to post your thoughts, and photos.
Ironically, I think you first suggested trying the 993 Longitudes Lol. But looking back you were also expressing concerns about wheel fitment, and suggested possibly slotting the MCS. Hindsight is 20/20, but that was foresight.
In another BBI install thread, Bill V was also adamant that 993 longitudes shouldn’t be necessary on RS carriers.
The car is heading up to Exotech next month to drop and re-gear the transmission. I’ll take another look at MCS struts, and see if that flange was the problem. I would be happy to get back to the 964 longitudes, and that 5mm just might make the difference to allow me to run with 235’s up front (or perhaps even 245’s).
Thanks again Pete,
Jim
#906
If you change your top hats to the ones that require grinding the body a bit like Spyerx’s or to ones that require provide more caster (dynamic camber) I’m sure you can use the 964 longs.
It’s also ironic that based on this thread, I put the 993 longs on my car as well and now I’m considering putting the 964s back in place before I finish this suspension project.
Pete
It’s also ironic that based on this thread, I put the 993 longs on my car as well and now I’m considering putting the 964s back in place before I finish this suspension project.
Pete
#907
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Deja Vu all over again Pete, thanks.
I’m pretty sure I have ERP camber plates, and seem to have the same issue noted in This thread. They’re great plates, but will require notching the strut tower to get the proper adjustment with the 964 longitudes. Pretty sure this is what prompted the move to 993 longitudes, but looking back now notching the strut tower (again) or changing up the camber plates themselves may have been the better play.
I’m pretty sure I have ERP camber plates, and seem to have the same issue noted in This thread. They’re great plates, but will require notching the strut tower to get the proper adjustment with the 964 longitudes. Pretty sure this is what prompted the move to 993 longitudes, but looking back now notching the strut tower (again) or changing up the camber plates themselves may have been the better play.
#909
This is the version with additional caster. Not sure how much camber it adds as the wheels turn but my goal is to reduce the camber when the wheels are straight so I get better wear with them with street mixed in but still have enough when the wheels are turned in.
#911
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Thread Starter
#912
Of course, build threads are the best! Seems like, outside of routine cleaning of dirt and debris, the next round for weight reduction would be the body, no? When you did the motor did you bump up to 3.8? ITB's in the future??
#913
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The engine was freshly rebuilt. It’s bone stock except for Webber racing cams. The B&B exhaust adds a little HP. No ITB’s or any mods planned for the engine. I really enjoy running against other stock 964’s, and passing them.
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brendon_ak (03-14-2024)
#914
Rennlist Member
A custom crash bar for the rear with CF bumper is on the list. I presently have the FVD Kevlar crash bar, but the bumper is stock. Also thinking about CF doors, but safety tells me I should add a cross bar for that. The weight savings on CF front fenders is negligible. There’s not much left to work with, but I think I can get the car down to 2,250 with CF doors.
The engine was freshly rebuilt. It’s bone stock except for Webber racing cams. The B&B exhaust adds a little HP. No ITB’s or any mods planned for the engine. I really enjoy running against other stock 964’s, and passing them.
The engine was freshly rebuilt. It’s bone stock except for Webber racing cams. The B&B exhaust adds a little HP. No ITB’s or any mods planned for the engine. I really enjoy running against other stock 964’s, and passing them.
#915
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Jim- I saw your post on the 245/285 thread and want to post up this thought on how you might be able to get enough camber with the original 964 longs before you go off and buy a new set of wheels. As it turns out with the MCS shocks and using stock hardware the camber adjustment is limited (probably unintentionally) by design- basically, almost entirely to the top mount adjustment. The stock 993 captive nuts and any washers interfere with the MCS's. Check it out..
Full neg camber the captive nut hits the inner tab. This tab is not needed. It is used on the bolt head side if using the factory adjuster which is an eccentric tool that fits over the bolt head and is rotated to adjust the bolt position in the slot. That said in our situation where the adjustment can be made with the top hat we will simply put this setting at mad neg camber anyway so actually the tabs are not needed on either the bolt or the nut sides. I think MCS simply uses the tabbed part on both sides out of production convenience:
Here you can see the remaining room for adjustment in the slot with the captive nut pushed back out of the way. The adjustment is in the middle- so there is a decent amount left. Whether this is enough adjustment to allow for the original 964 long tor not I'm not sure- but I'd measure it at full negative both on the top hat and here below and see how degree's of wiggle room are left.
Here it is pushed to max neg camber. In my case with the 993rs uprights there is just a little room left for adjustment if I were to clearance the strut just a bit in front of my index finger as it hits the upright- but were talking about probably 1/2 a degree.
So by simply removing the tab that the captive nut is hitting you can get a 2-3mm more adjustment out of that slot. Given that the 993 longs are purportedly about 5mm or so further outboard it may be enough.
Not sure if this is a solution for you but had to mention it just in case. At any rate MCS users should be aware of this.
Pete
Full neg camber the captive nut hits the inner tab. This tab is not needed. It is used on the bolt head side if using the factory adjuster which is an eccentric tool that fits over the bolt head and is rotated to adjust the bolt position in the slot. That said in our situation where the adjustment can be made with the top hat we will simply put this setting at mad neg camber anyway so actually the tabs are not needed on either the bolt or the nut sides. I think MCS simply uses the tabbed part on both sides out of production convenience:
Here you can see the remaining room for adjustment in the slot with the captive nut pushed back out of the way. The adjustment is in the middle- so there is a decent amount left. Whether this is enough adjustment to allow for the original 964 long tor not I'm not sure- but I'd measure it at full negative both on the top hat and here below and see how degree's of wiggle room are left.
Here it is pushed to max neg camber. In my case with the 993rs uprights there is just a little room left for adjustment if I were to clearance the strut just a bit in front of my index finger as it hits the upright- but were talking about probably 1/2 a degree.
So by simply removing the tab that the captive nut is hitting you can get a 2-3mm more adjustment out of that slot. Given that the 993 longs are purportedly about 5mm or so further outboard it may be enough.
Not sure if this is a solution for you but had to mention it just in case. At any rate MCS users should be aware of this.
Pete
I knew instantly I had come to the right shop. Unfortunately I brought the wrong longitudinals. Apparently there was a very early version exclusively for C4’s. The C4 has no provisions for a brake booster as its hydraulic. There’s no provisions for the brake booster mount and support bracket. Doh.
Thankfully Mike at Autobahn stepped right up and a new pair of C2 units are on the way. I will be retuning a very clean set of C4 side members to Autobahn.
C4 longitudinals before cleanup
After clean up
C2 longitudinals in left have three mounting holes C4 on right has no holes for mounting brake booster and bracket.