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So you’re running 225’s stretched on 8.5” rims and they’re rubbing where the fender meets the bumper. That extra 1/2” of wheel really makes a difference. How close are you to the calipers?
A higher offset would push the wheels further outboard. I think you want less offset, not more, to push the wheels inboard to stop the rubbing.
My 8” wide wheels are ET 49, and I need to be closer to ET 45. You could also adjust caster to push the wheels back a bit.
Indeed. The 8.5 "pokes" over 7mm further than your 8" with our respective offsets. The offset is positive offset, so a higher number moves the wheel inward toward the center of the car, away from the lip. Taking material off the mounting face will achieve this.
What is the wheel center number on your 8's? If it's the same as mine and yours fits well with the 993 front longitudinal, I could replace the one or both of the wheel halves and go down to 8".
Indeed. The 8.5 "pokes" over 7mm further than your 8" with our respective offsets. The offset is positive offset, so a higher number moves the wheel inward toward the center of the car, away from the lip. Taking material off the mounting face will achieve this.
What is the wheel center number on your 8's? If it's the same as mine and yours fits well with the 993 front longitudinal, I could replace the one or both of the wheel halves and go down to 8".
Thanks tjb616, You are correct, of course. I got myself turned around there for a moment. So the extra 1 mm offset in the MY O2’s May actually help, ha.
I need to have a closer look at the wheels. If I get down there this weekend I’ll have a look. But based on this photo I had lying around, it looks like the center ends in 108 or 109?
I’m not seeing the 7 at the end, but will try to get down to take a closer look.
The barrels are as follows, as recommended by Gert at Carnewal.
Front 8.0x18 ET 49 (1”outer. 7”inner)
Rear 10x18 ET 49 (2”outer, 8”inner)
I just purchased a set of hollow twists for my 993 WB on BAT yesterday. There’ll never come out of the box, but I wanted a set for the car. Win.
Sorry, I typed it backwards: *I* have 207's *you* have 208's. Appreciate your input. I didn't realize they had 1"outers, I thought 1.5" was the smallest. My new option is to buy 1" outers and run a spacer. Probably the easiest.
Congrats on the hollow purchase. I have a set for NB 993's but that car is currently on Tramont GT2 wheels.
Making ready for the track season. After a year off there are some cobwebs, and some fine-tuning to be done.
I jacked up the car to swap out the storage wheels, and bleed the brakes. I threw away the old RH wheels. They’re no longer roadworthy, and a nuisance. No more forgetting to clamp the overflow on the brake fluid reservoir. I finally succumbed to the 27 year old Technical Bulletin and installed a vented reservoir cap. The brake bleed went smoothly. I ordered a dozen more 1/2 liters of Pagid racing fluid for the coming season.
Inspecting the front wheel wells, the 235’s were clearly rubbing and will need to stick to 225’s until I get a new set of wheels with a bit more offset. I alwo noticed the 275’s taking a toll in the rear. There was some rubbing on the oil pipe. I gave it a few love taps with a rubber mallet, and will have a go at loosening the hose to see if I can get the pipe flush with the recess. The pipe appears to be intact, but looks like hell. New flattened pipe and hose ordered. Thanks to JasonAndreas for the part numbers. All the shops are jammed right now, so I may have to wait until the next oil change. I may also go this one alone…
With the brakes bled and smaller 225’s mounted on the BBS wheels, I set about mounting the wheels. I quickly hit a wall, however, as both front tires were mounted directionally for the right side. Doh. I was back at the wheel shop today and the tire is now correctly mounted. Just taking these tires on and off takes a bit of a toll on the BBS lips. They’re racing wheels, but they look great.
So the goal is to get down to the Cape later this week, put on the last wheel, massage the oil pipe a bit more and then make my way to the Palmer Motorsport for a shakedown cruise. PCA travels to Thompson Motor Speedway May 26-28, and the fun begins.
Finally heeded Texhnical Bulletin My RH Wheels we’re no longer roadworthy. I didn’t want to see anyone driving on them, so off for recycling. Time for a brake bleed Junked the old overflow valve (1/4 lb.) Bits for vented cap (with part numbers) New vented cap installed Rubbing here from the 235’s And rubbing here from the 275’s. Crap. Hammered the pipe, and new flattened pipe ordered to be safe. This pipe looks like hell, and does not inspire confidence.
Out of curiosity were there hairline cracks on the center faces of the wheels? If there was no damage could they be rebuilt by swapping out the front and rear half barrels?
Hi,
Great upgrade for the reservoir cap and nice to see it simplyfies things.
Regarding the fender oil pipe mine had to be hammered too with 265s.
I am more and more thinking moving the oil tank to the front.
Out of curiosity were there hairline cracks on the center faces of the wheels? If there was no damage could they be rebuilt by swapping out the front and rear half barrels?
All three pieces of each of the wheels were suffering from corrosion and other indignities. The hardware was rusting, and the centers were corroded by the hardware and along the rims. The prior repairs to the wheels were multiple, and shoddy. The wheels were at best compromised. An attractive nuisance. The safest thing to do was let these wheels die peacefully, and recycle the metal and rubber. They would have sold on BAT for $2,000 easily, lol.
Originally Posted by kos11-12
Hi,
Great upgrade for the reservoir cap and nice to see it simplyfies things.
Regarding the fender oil pipe mine had to be hammered too with 265s.
I am more and more thinking moving the oil tank to the front.
Yes, 265’s rubbed a bit. 275’s rub a bit more. I’ve got 4mm spacers in back, but 5mm may actually bump the fender. I need to roll the rear fenders. How does Bill V run with 285’s??There’s a lot of plumbing to be rerouted back there to move the oil tank. And it’s easy enough to get the oil pipe out of the way. I do have the oil cooler centered under the front bumper. The car runs much cooler.
For the front oil tank, the breather hose route worries me.
it seam that it may need to be hight up therefore inside the cabin by the roof and back in the front boot ...
Unrelated question but wondering how you routed the remote canister line front and rear. I am about ready to start my suspension install and was wondering a neat way of routing. Also where did you mount your rear cannisters? 🙏
Originally Posted by Foxman
Making ready for the track season. After a year off there are some cobwebs, and some fine-tuning to be done.
Unrelated question but wondering how you routed the remote canister line front and rear. I am about ready to start my suspension install and was wondering a neat way of routing. Also where did you mount your rear cannisters? 🙏
The rear lines run through the factory holes in the rear seat bottoms. Easy and direct route. Just fit a hole in the plugs. The rear canisters are mounted on the roll bar.
The front lines required cutting a small notch on either side of the strut towers where the camber plates mount. There are a few photos here in the thread somewhere, and I can take a shot this weekend. Thanks to Steve Weiner, RIP, for this gem. The front canisters are mounted on the strut tower brace. Good luck with the project!
The rear lines run through the factory holes in the rear seat bottoms. Easy and direct route. Just fit a hole in the plugs. The rear canisters are mounted on the roll bar.
The front lines required cutting a small notch on either side of the strut towers where the camber plates mount. There are a few photos here in the thread somewhere, and I can take a shot this weekend. Thanks to Steve Weiner, RIP, for this gem. The front canisters are mounted on the strut tower brace. Good luck with the project!
No bar or cage in mine yet but I do plan to have a custom weld in bar installed at some point. In the meant time I will need to come up with a temporary home as the suspension will be completed long before the bar. No rush but when you get a chance a close up of the front hose passing through the strut top would be appreciated.
Your project is one of those that inspired my own to be started lighter weight build. I decided to splurge on some more carbon bits and just staging for when I start the diet at the end of the year.
Foxman, how do find yourself splitting your time and attention between this and your 993? Is one favored over the other? I always found this difficult when I had two similarly purposed cars in my garage.
No bar or cage in mine yet but I do plan to have a custom weld in bar installed at some point. In the meant time I will need to come up with a temporary home as the suspension will be completed long before the bar. No rush but when you get a chance a close up of the front hose passing through the strut top would be appreciated.
Your project is one of those that inspired my own to be started lighter weight build. I decided to splurge on some more carbon bits and just staging for when I start the diet at the end of the year.
Here are a few photos of the remote canisters, front and rear. Weight is the enemy!
03-17-2023, 07:19 PM
