Building a new 500whp engine, have some questions.
#61
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The old street engine was with a Garrett GT3582R, 0,82 AR turbine housing and Link G3/G4 EMS. Wet sump. Stiffer valvesprings. Some reliability upgrades for the block such as pinned girdle and 9/16 head studs. Pauter rods and Wössner pistons.
#62
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Do you think that with same engine with lower static cr (8-8.5) 600whp would be a safe bet?
#63
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No that would not be a safe bet IMHO... Not something to run on the track.
#64
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My car won't see much track (as we don't even have one
) maybe couple track days in croatia or austria per year.
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#66
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It's a totally different thing to build something that holds up for the street for a few years where you only push for maybe 5 sec at the time before cooling down. Building something for a full lap at the Ring or a full 10-15 min session at the track is very, very, VERY different. Remember that most of the energy that you out into the engine (fuel) just becomes heat. To build a cooling setup that can handle 500 rwhp sustained load is harder than most people realize.
Not sure if this has been mentioned in this thread but I hope this engine will get a dry sump setup as well. Best case is to spend as much as possible to build a reliable engine with high hp at lowish boost and then turn the boost down for the first part of the season and gradually build up from there.
Not sure if this has been mentioned in this thread but I hope this engine will get a dry sump setup as well. Best case is to spend as much as possible to build a reliable engine with high hp at lowish boost and then turn the boost down for the first part of the season and gradually build up from there.
#67
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It's a totally different thing to build something that holds up for the street for a few years where you only push for maybe 5 sec at the time before cooling down. Building something for a full lap at the Ring or a full 10-15 min session at the track is very, very, VERY different. Remember that most of the energy that you out into the engine (fuel) just becomes heat. To build a cooling setup that can handle 500 rwhp sustained load is harder than most people realize.
Not sure if this has been mentioned in this thread but I hope this engine will get a dry sump setup as well. Best case is to spend as much as possible to build a reliable engine with high hp at lowish boost and then turn the boost down for the first part of the season and gradually build up from there.
Not sure if this has been mentioned in this thread but I hope this engine will get a dry sump setup as well. Best case is to spend as much as possible to build a reliable engine with high hp at lowish boost and then turn the boost down for the first part of the season and gradually build up from there.
I will install aqqusump, bigger intercooler and a bigger radiator.
THE Ecu will have "limpmode" is the temeratures is to high ( 105 degree water and 110 oil )
#68
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Duke did you use stock radiator on your green car or any of the aftermarket ones? I am searching for really good aftermarket radiator, not just something that is non stock but something that will actually cool better.
#70
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Something that really has 50%+ more fin area, not just aluminum side tanks like those chinese. Im looking at 500hp truck cores, too bad most are giant.
Yours look good but its hard to say from the picture. Those two fans however, I'm not sure.
Yours look good but its hard to say from the picture. Those two fans however, I'm not sure.
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#71
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.. (double post)
#73
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This is one of those things that people have to find out on their own. So many opinions.
Its typical that everyone starts off at the 'cheap end" and after trying all end up at the expensive end as this is what it takes. No co incidence that some here have ended up here. Pick your poison I guess.
There's a saying, no one has enough money to do it right the first time, but always enough to do it a second time. If 500whp is achievable with simple upgrades and you can get it reliable enough to go around the ring, go for it. 500 whp for 14+ miles, multiple times, you may want to take some of that $10K and buy a day pass for the ring taxi.
Its typical that everyone starts off at the 'cheap end" and after trying all end up at the expensive end as this is what it takes. No co incidence that some here have ended up here. Pick your poison I guess.
There's a saying, no one has enough money to do it right the first time, but always enough to do it a second time. If 500whp is achievable with simple upgrades and you can get it reliable enough to go around the ring, go for it. 500 whp for 14+ miles, multiple times, you may want to take some of that $10K and buy a day pass for the ring taxi.
#74
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Another thing nobody seems to be addressing, is usable power. I have seen a Supra Turbo whose owner was bragging about having 800 hp but when you look at the dyno sheet there was a spike over 100 RPM where all the power was. Totally useless. It would have been bested by a lower HP car with a broader power band.
So in regards to powerband, which is better? 8V or 16V? Big displacement or small displacement? Etc.
So in regards to powerband, which is better? 8V or 16V? Big displacement or small displacement? Etc.
#75
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Twin scroll..