3.0 8V build cost?
#31
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Thanks Chris! I just want to say that I have the ultimate respect for what you have accomplished with our cars and the way you conduct your business. Thanks for sharing here as I have learned a great deal from your posts.
#32
Drifting
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I find it interesting that some discuss 3L motors like the Hybrid Stroker option does not exist. With Sid's motor, my motor, and Dukes motor (his motor is a very nice Hybrid Stroker with a 3L block and a dry sump) we have gone a long way to proving it out. Several more motors are quite a ways along and should surface soon. Not saying it is for everyone but it certainly is a legit option.
#33
Race Car
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There is no doubt that they do exist and its a nice solution - if the owner is good with engine building and has the right connections. I wouldn't suggest it to somebody as their first engine project unless they were very mechanically inclined and already knew how to mic a crank, check big end sizing and do 'real' bearing clearance checking (no Plastigage!).
There are not a lot of shops that can offset grind and heat treat a crank back to factory hardness. The 'smart' guys know where to go and what to ask for. Newbies won't be so lucky.
BTW - I would also not suggest sleeving as a DIY option!
There are not a lot of shops that can offset grind and heat treat a crank back to factory hardness. The 'smart' guys know where to go and what to ask for. Newbies won't be so lucky.
BTW - I would also not suggest sleeving as a DIY option!
You know Chris, I'd actually like to see you build one of these. I realize that you like the factory crank hardness, But as you know it can be brought back quite a ways. I firmly believe that it has helped the oiling issue to a large degree (same volume spread over less area, plus better bearing material).
I know first hand that if I spun a std crank and bearings the way I have this combo that the bearings would have been toast.
Plus the smaller big end of the rods allows for plenty of clearance on the girdle.
You probably have a ton of extra parts to make it happen easily
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#35
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You know Chris, I'd actually like to see you build one of these. I realize that you like the factory crank hardness, But as you know it can be brought back quite a ways. I firmly believe that it has helped the oiling issue to a large degree (same volume spread over less area, plus better bearing material).
I know first hand that if I spun a std crank and bearings the way I have this combo that the bearings would have been toast.
Plus the smaller big end of the rods allows for plenty of clearance on the girdle.
You probably have a ton of extra parts to make it happen easily![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I know first hand that if I spun a std crank and bearings the way I have this combo that the bearings would have been toast.
Plus the smaller big end of the rods allows for plenty of clearance on the girdle.
You probably have a ton of extra parts to make it happen easily
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If the problem with the oiling system and head gaskets were resolved then the push for more displacement would make some sense - but right now there is a limit to how much power the stock architecture will support (remember that I think in terms of road racing - it needs to make its 'rated' power for 30 minutes at a time).
I also tend to over do things...what I really want is a custom crank that does not have 90 degree corners in the oiling galley! I have almost pulled the trigger on that several times - but its not cheap! If I were to do that I would go with smaller rod journals.
#36
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How many people would it take to drop the price on the crank?
I followed your project and I have thought about building one at some point. The 'Hybrid' engine is a good idea for technically inclined builders doing their own work - but for a commercial shop you end up trading off cost savings on less expensive parts for more labor / shipping / machining. By the time I ship the crank out to have it machined and heat treated I will have spent the savings on the rest of the parts! Projects shape up differently when you have to look at labor costs - for example I am doing a special project for my car and I have 40 hours+ into a mod that is pretty cool (I'll post soon) - but as far as a commercial version - I doubt anybody would want to cough up $3-4K for a cool boost controller!
If the problem with the oiling system and head gaskets were resolved then the push for more displacement would make some sense - but right now there is a limit to how much power the stock architecture will support (remember that I think in terms of road racing - it needs to make its 'rated' power for 30 minutes at a time).
I also tend to over do things...what I really want is a custom crank that does not have 90 degree corners in the oiling galley! I have almost pulled the trigger on that several times - but its not cheap! If I were to do that I would go with smaller rod journals.
If the problem with the oiling system and head gaskets were resolved then the push for more displacement would make some sense - but right now there is a limit to how much power the stock architecture will support (remember that I think in terms of road racing - it needs to make its 'rated' power for 30 minutes at a time).
I also tend to over do things...what I really want is a custom crank that does not have 90 degree corners in the oiling galley! I have almost pulled the trigger on that several times - but its not cheap! If I were to do that I would go with smaller rod journals.
#37
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I know this may sound crazy but I am not convinced that the nitride treatment is necessary. Our cranks are extremely hard even after the offset grind. My crank guy says our cranks are the hardest cranks he ever cross drills. I talked to the biggest crank shop in the ATL and they also said they do not believe it is necessary although it may buy a bit more margin if the oil gets extremely hot (obvious track conditions). I am looking at cutting up my 2.85L crank and having one journal nitride treated and then doing some comparison hardness testing. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of this issue.
Without nitride treatment my 3L crank was offset ground for $275
Without nitride treatment my 3L crank was offset ground for $275
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#38
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#39
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I know this may sound crazy but I am not convinced that the nitride treatment is necessary. Our cranks are extremely hard even after the offset grind. My crank guy says our cranks are the hardest cranks he ever cross drills. I talked to the biggest crank shop in the ATL and they also said they do not believe it is necessary although it may buy a bit more margin if the oil gets extremely hot (obvious track conditions). I am looking at cutting up my 2.85L crank and having one journal nitride treated and then doing some comparison hardness testing. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of this issue.
Without nitride treatment my 3L crank was offset ground for $275![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Without nitride treatment my 3L crank was offset ground for $275
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If you are lucky enough to live near a shop that can do quality offset grinding then it costs $275. By the time I build a crate and pay for shipping both ways it would cost me another $200.
I am not trying to pick on the idea - its an interesting solution - but once you look at it from a commercial/production point of view a lot of the cost savings shrink.
#40
Rainman
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I know this may sound crazy but I am not convinced that the nitride treatment is necessary. Our cranks are extremely hard even after the offset grind. My crank guy says our cranks are the hardest cranks he ever cross drills. I talked to the biggest crank shop in the ATL and they also said they do not believe it is necessary although it may buy a bit more margin if the oil gets extremely hot (obvious track conditions). I am looking at cutting up my 2.85L crank and having one journal nitride treated and then doing some comparison hardness testing. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of this issue.
Without nitride treatment my 3L crank was offset ground for $275![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Without nitride treatment my 3L crank was offset ground for $275
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#41
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That said, I get your point about man hrs. I often trade man hrs for out of pocket cost. I see how that could be an issue for a professional engine builder.