3.0 8V build cost?
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That completely depends on the manner in which you go about the build since there are several different ways with respect to block, crank, and piston/rod choice to obtain 3 liters. Also depends on what parts you already have on hand. Lately I've been contemplating the cost/performance ratio between a 3 liter built with a 3 liter crank, 951 rods, and custom pistons inside a sleeved 2.5 liter block vs a hybrid stroker build using a machined 2.5 liter crank, mitsubishi rods, chevy pistons, and a sleeved 2.5 liter block so I'm pretty interested in this discussion as well. Do you have any parts on hand already? I'm concerned about the strength of stock, vintage 951 rods in a high hp 3 liter build so if I had to also get aftermarket rods, that adds another 1000 dollars and makes it a no brainer for me to go the hybrid stroker route.
Generally speaking, a 3 liter crank is going to be ~1k, you could spend more or less if you look hard enough. Aftermarket pistons and rings will be another 1000. If you want aftermarket rods, that's 1k+. The cost of sleeving can vary greatly but it isnt cheap. Alternatively I believe you can also use the 3 liter crank in a 2.5 block without sleeving it by using shorter aftermarket rods and stock 951 pistons. I don't think you'd be able to do a full build with all new internals for under 4k, and that's on the low side.
If you do a hybrid build, the rods are ~300 and the pistons ~500, then you just need to get a sleeved block and find a 2.5 crank to machine. If you are lucky, you'll just get a block that spun a bearing or something that somebody wants to get rid of cheap, and then you have your crank and block in one pop. I think you could do a hybrid build for under 2500 all in. Plus if you start with a 2.5 liter block, you dont have to mess with getting the head to fit.
Edit: I'm talking just about the cost of the rotating assembly parts here. As others have mentioned, the true cost of a full rebuild plus supporting stuff is going to be MUCH higher and can very easily clear 10k.
Generally speaking, a 3 liter crank is going to be ~1k, you could spend more or less if you look hard enough. Aftermarket pistons and rings will be another 1000. If you want aftermarket rods, that's 1k+. The cost of sleeving can vary greatly but it isnt cheap. Alternatively I believe you can also use the 3 liter crank in a 2.5 block without sleeving it by using shorter aftermarket rods and stock 951 pistons. I don't think you'd be able to do a full build with all new internals for under 4k, and that's on the low side.
If you do a hybrid build, the rods are ~300 and the pistons ~500, then you just need to get a sleeved block and find a 2.5 crank to machine. If you are lucky, you'll just get a block that spun a bearing or something that somebody wants to get rid of cheap, and then you have your crank and block in one pop. I think you could do a hybrid build for under 2500 all in. Plus if you start with a 2.5 liter block, you dont have to mess with getting the head to fit.
Edit: I'm talking just about the cost of the rotating assembly parts here. As others have mentioned, the true cost of a full rebuild plus supporting stuff is going to be MUCH higher and can very easily clear 10k.
Last edited by Dougs951S; 01-07-2014 at 03:35 PM.
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If you do a hybrid build, the rods are ~300 and the pistons ~500, then you just need to get a sleeved block and find a 2.5 crank to machine. If you are lucky, you'll just get a block that spun a bearing or something that somebody wants to get rid of cheap, and then you have your crank and block in one pop. I think you could do a hybrid build for under 2500 all in. Plus if you start with a 2.5 liter block, you dont have to mess with getting the head to fit.
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What is the motor to be used for, daily driving or track? How deep are your pockets? Go to the 3.0 liter sticky, lots of discussion in there on parts used.
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RLM328 is the Sam's shop in H-town? Pockets don't want to spend more than $8K installed.
Right now the part's i have on hand are the stock 2.5l parts from an 89 turbo S motor. I spoke to Chris White a while back but can't remember the cost to build a 3.0 to where it would operate at stock boost levels with an 8V head.
I also spoke to the guy at rogue tuning for a tune once the build was complete. I just want a safe, reliable motor pushing close to 375 hp at the wheels. i was thinking that a 3.0 could do that for me with the track turbo/inter-cooler set up i have at stock boost levels. Do you concur?
Right now the part's i have on hand are the stock 2.5l parts from an 89 turbo S motor. I spoke to Chris White a while back but can't remember the cost to build a 3.0 to where it would operate at stock boost levels with an 8V head.
I also spoke to the guy at rogue tuning for a tune once the build was complete. I just want a safe, reliable motor pushing close to 375 hp at the wheels. i was thinking that a 3.0 could do that for me with the track turbo/inter-cooler set up i have at stock boost levels. Do you concur?
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#8
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$8000.00 installed is your limit?
That barely covers a stock rebuild with many new parts. Once you start adding in a good clutch, a full stainless steel exhaust system, bigger modern turbo, a MAF kit+injectors, youre already knocking on the door of $5000...and we havent even opened the motor yet or included the labor of a Porsche specialist. If you are mechanically inclined and do a lot of it yourself, its very possible. If youre looking for 375hp, you might as well just build a 2.5 with a huge turbo and a MAF. You just wont have that low end grunt the 3.0 provides...
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#9
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That is a pretty small budget even for doing one of my style of engines.
You might consider doing a 2.85L hybrid. That may leave a bit of $$ left over for ancillaries. That is if you build it yourself..
You might consider doing a 2.85L hybrid. That may leave a bit of $$ left over for ancillaries. That is if you build it yourself..
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How can the whole 3 liter conversion be done for 8k? Realistically, those are really 15-20k jobs once you add in all the supporting mods and get the chassis ready for it...especially if its a 16 valve. I know that Blown 944's hybrid engines are much cheaper, but what about everything else?? Hoses, turbo, intercooler, engine management, MAF, clutch... it all adds up really fast, really high. And there's not too many Porsche shops that work for less than $100/hr either. Especially if you want the best and nicest of everything!
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The picture was taken in the shop on Ronda. I don't even know if it is still open. If I were you I would go with a 2.8 L motor. It is a fairly easy conversion, but you are still in the $6k to $8k range just for parts. To turn a 2.5 L to a 3.0 L will require sleeves and the machining that is involved, this option can have a tricky and expensive learning curve to get all of the various gizmos to play well together. At a minimum you will need a 3.0 L crank, after market rods, pistons, injectors and a chipset that can be tuned (Rogue, Vitesse, or Lindsey). In order to take advantage of these mods, you will probably want to upgrade the turbo, increase the exhaust to at least 3-in,and hard piping if you have already changed it out. While you have the engine out, I would replace any thing that spins, i.e idlers, rollers, water pump, oil pump, and balance shaft bearings.
Now that this has all been up graded I would replace the CVs on the half shafts. Install an LSD if you do not already have one.
My old 2.8 L would make around 345 at the rear wheels at 16 psi boost and temps around 85 F. It had a shaved crank, aluminum fly wheel, squirters, etc.
Now that this has all been up graded I would replace the CVs on the half shafts. Install an LSD if you do not already have one.
My old 2.8 L would make around 345 at the rear wheels at 16 psi boost and temps around 85 F. It had a shaved crank, aluminum fly wheel, squirters, etc.
#14
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The problem with this question is it is too vague. I would say from $3,500 to 25,000 depending on what you do. Is this question for a short block, a long block, or long block with support mods (turbo, engine management, etc) and/or add-ons (clutch, exhaust, LSD, rims/tires, etc).
I can tell you that that a Hybrid Stroker can be done significantly cheaper than the traditional method and results have been pretty good so far and they can be built pretty quickly because the parts are "off the self". I may be a bit bias however![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
PS: Darwin - Finally got that Pano sent
I can tell you that that a Hybrid Stroker can be done significantly cheaper than the traditional method and results have been pretty good so far and they can be built pretty quickly because the parts are "off the self". I may be a bit bias however
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
PS: Darwin - Finally got that Pano sent
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)