No problem man, it's all good. I think it's good that we all research before we try something. And that starts by asking around. I tried them and I really like them. They've paid for themselves over and over again, and they filter better than anything I've ever had.

 

Lol @ 0:53 of the video when all the household cleaning stuff appears.

Lots of misleading claims and difficult maintenance procedure.

Beautiful kit, though. Looks like the kind of filter mad max would use.

 

I don't mind the cleaning with dish soap since its a good degreaser and all you need it to get rid of the old oil and debris but it seems looking at the components that this could be made for much less money?!

maybe that just me being tight though ha ha!

 

A Mechanical Engineer in North America somewhere went out and purchased about 30 different filters of different brands and price ranges. He cut them open to inspect them and discovered something interesting.

There is a paper out there with the results somewhere......anyone care to guess what it was

And a cookie for anyone that can find it.


Second thing:

If a product.....whatever it may be claims something.....not trying to pick on anyone....you can.......

http://www.boeingsuppliers.com//supplier/D6-82479.pdf

 

Haven't seen any PurePower filters on any of the planes at work, and I've been around nearly every system of each plane.

 

Harry:

If the information I have been reading from Dr. Haas, on the Bob is the Oil Guy site is correct, I didn't fully understand what the first number prior to the W means when pertaining to the viscosity of a synthetic oil. I had no idea there was a difference in this number between synthetic and mineral oil. I am very thankful for this forum. You learn something new everyday! However, I hope I am not the only person who thought these ratings were the same between mineral and synthetic. Please see excerpt below and feel free to comment:

A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212°F engine. It acts as a 30 grade oil when hot. It acts more as a 10 grade oil at startup. I remind you that a 10, 5 or 2 grade oil is still too thick to provide lubrication at startup. They are all too thick at startup. There is currently no engine oil thin enough to operate correctly at startup. They all cause excessive wear at startup. Again, we are discussing the needs of my single hypothetical engine for around town driving.

There is a chart here, but I can't get it to copy and paste correctly.


( Oil Types – Synthetic / Straight varying Thickness )

Let’s look at the make up of synthetic based oils. A 10W-30 synthetic oil is based on a 30 grade oil. This is unlike the counterpart mineral oil based on a 10 grade oil. There is no VI improver needed. The oil is already correct for the normal operating temperature of 212°F. It has a thickness of 10 while you drive to work. It will never thin yet has the same long term problem as the mineral based oil. They both thicken with extended age.

To recap, synthetic oils have similar characteristics as mineral oils at operating temperatures. The synthetic oil will however be less honey – like at startup even though it has the same API / SAE rating. Yet the synthetic 10W-30 grade oil is based on a heavier 30 grade oil while the mineral based 10W-30 oil is based on a thinner 10 grade oil. They are both similar at operating temperatures yet the 30 grade based synthetic is actually less thick at startup and much less honey – like at low temperatures. This is the opposite of what common sense dictates.

This is worth repeating: The synthetic 10W-30 grade oil is based on a heavier 30 grade oil while the mineral based 10W-30 oil is based on a thinner 10 grade oil. They are both similar at operating temperatures yet the 30 grade based synthetic is actually less thick at startup and much less honey – like at low temperatures. This is the opposite of what common sense dictates.

As one can see this is no easy topic. Are you with me?


This is a read I think many would be interested in, here is the link:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Very Interesting and yes, somewhat confusing.

 

This is so funny. Here's this thread and I have some news about my Pure Power filters.

Ok, so I have an Air Dog II fuel pump on my truck. It's for high performance applications. The truck went into the shop with sluggish, no power, condition. they couldn't figure it out till they looked at the filters. They changed out the oil filter to stock. Same symptoms. They found a collapsed fuel line. It just wore out I guess. Then they changed the fuel filters back to the Air Dog Filters, which I have to say, are the very worst filters I've ever seen. Backyard home made quality. When I first looked into new ones, I tried to find some Wix filters that would fit , but couldn't. As soon as they changed the fuel filters, the truck ran fine. The problem also burned out the pump. It's warrantied for life so They had one in the shop and put it on and the new one is coming.

Now, the mechanic said the clogged fuel filters burned out the pump. It's actually happened before too. I didn't check and clean out the filters I guess, and the Air Dog was trying to push the fuel so hard through the filters that the filter collapsed. But it didn't let any contaminants through. Instead, it burned out the pump. Now for some reason, it did it again. And I just cleaned them a few months ago.

I haven't seen the filters yet myself, so I can't say what the deal is. The only thing different is that I used my garden hose to clean them off, instead of the high pressure at the car wash. But when you clean them, you'll know they're clean whe you hold them up and can still see light coming through them. Which I could. I also used the last of my biodiesel in my tank before my yearly clean out. Maybe there was extra sediment in there. Not sure. But the filter in the motor has never been cleaned. I keep checking it and it's like new. So, they're working, but if I just cleaned them, and they still didn't work, I don't know. Also, the mechanic said that the pump motor seems to be working a little bit harder pushing fuel through the air dog filters than it did through the Pure Power. He's not sure on his verdict of them now either. He thought they were fine until this happened. So I don't know until I get them back. Thing is, I sold my truck. The new owner is a kid who picked up my truck and didn't even make it home before this happened. So, I stepped up and am taking care of the bill for him. It's only fair. The mechanic put the factory filters back in there with the Air Dog filters. The kid still gets the $600 worth of Pure Power Filters as they go with the truck. He's gonna stop by next week as he'd like to keep using 10-20% biodiesel for lubricity. I'll have a look at the filters when he comes over to see if they're plugged.

As far as my filter I already have for my Porsche, I'm still going to use it. I'm going to follow this thread to see if anyone comes up with any more reasons to stick with factory. When I had my factory fuel pump and filter in the truck, the little filter in the engine compartment would get dirty. And again, I've never cleaned it since I got the Pure Power Ones. Now I wish I would've gotten the engine oil analysis done so I know for a fact. So, since I have one for the Porsche, I'll do one with the factory Mahle oil filter, and then one after the Pure Power One. Then we'll all know.

Oh, and the contract with Boeing is supposed to start next year. I just saw him at Sema and he was excited as it must have just happened, so he told me about it. And I only found out about the Nascar thing as there was a few engineers from a couple of teams talking with him and when they left, Kelly said he appreciated their business. That's when he told me about the Nascar thing. So I don't know. Those of you who see the internals of those planes, keep me posted. I was already sold on these things before he told me about al this stuff. But I'm gonna do the analysis and post back here in the coming months. That will make me feel better after this issue with my truck.

So, I'm still hooked on these things, but then this happened and I don't know what the deal is as I haven't seen the filters yet. They held true to not let any contaminants get through, and they flow better, making it easier on the pump. But if they clog, they won't let anything through and the pump will burn out. A factory filter just lets the contaminants through as the pump keeps pushing. That's what I've seen so far with my truck.

 

Can I ask something seriously?

If you follow Porsche's recommendations for filters and oil changes (filters, oil, etc. per the manual) you can expect 100,000's of thousands of miles of service from your Porsche powertrain.

In comparison to the standard of performance and life expectancy, what is the advantage of this product, or to put it better, what is the marginal advantage which it provides?

If there is no advantage, can we just admit that it looks cool and that's why we might install it?

 

Bob:

I have to agree with you here, I totally liked the look of it. I was hoping the performance of it was as good a the looks. Honestly, I have no positive evidence that it does not perform satisfactorily. Don't have enough positive evidence to make the switch though. Looking more and more like I will be sticking with the tried and true throw away spin on. If we had enough room I would seriously look into the Amsoil bypass system, but our engine bay is very space limited.

Rob:

I disagree with the cleaning method in the video. If I had this filter I would buy a spare filter element and place the dirty one in a beaker of solvent and place both in my ultrasonic bath over night. The next morning you would have a perfectly clean replacement and also be able to see all the contaminates trapped by the filter in the bottom of the beaker.

 

You know, Bob brings up a very good point. They are tried and true. I just think there's a big difference between nominal filtration vs absolute filtration. So I went with them.

 

Dfastest951:

Please don't believe everything Kelly has told you. Every spin on filter is absolute, once the oil reaches a certain temperature. This of course depends on the type of oil as to what temperature the bypass valve will close. All standard filters will operate in bypass mode on cold starts until oil reaches a temperature sufficient enough to reduce viscosity (of this particular oil) enough to reduce pressure delta across filter media. Once this level has been reached, the bypass valve will close and filter will operate in absolute mode. Please note the oil will flow through, not across or around the media at this point! The statements he makes on his brochure are FALSE! Also note, your PurePower filter operates in exactly the same fashion as I just described, it too utilizes a bypass valve. All oils including 0W-20 synthetics are too viscous at temperatures below 70 F not to open the bypass valve. The only true absolute filter is the Canton Mecca version with no bypass valve, but it has fitment and anti flow back valve issues. Please note I should not have said "only", there may be others similar to the CM, but I have not found any yet. Note: Several big name filter brands such as Wix making "racing" filters which also don't incorporate a bypass valve and thus would also be considered 100% absolute filters. Hope this helps!

 

I took apart more than a few major brand filters, and none of them let any oil even seep through after a week or more. They really don't filter. The Pure Power ones really do. Like I said, I use them and really like them. My oil analysis will really say whether they work or not. I might as well since I already have one for the car. Then we'll all know.

 

Were you applying 4-5bar of pressure to that oil while they were sitting there?

 

Does that pressure force the oil Through the media?

 

Yes, big difference, but not as much as temperature! The real question would be; Did you heat your oil to 212 F or 100 C? Typical bypass valve spring rates are 8-14 psi. Which means you still might need 1-8 PSID to get the oil to flow through the media even at operating temperature.

Fluid flow like electrical current will take the path of least resistance. For simplicity, say the oil filter bypass valve is at 10 psi. If there is more than 10 PSID across the filter media, whether SS mesh, pleated paper, or pleated fiberglass matt, the bypass valve will open and unfiltered flow will occur. As the oil heats up and viscosity becomes less (goes from honey to water), the oil can pass through the media at a much lower pressure, say 2-3 psi difference between incoming oil (oil pump side) and outgoing side on the other side of the filter media. This is too low of a pressure to open the bypass valve and thus all flow will be absolutely filtered through the media. Too make a comparison to your industry, cold oil is like an **** scene without KY, very resistant to flow!

Yes, I have been doing alot of reading lately!