Any DIY for the transmission mount?
11-26-2012, 01:10 PM
#1
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Any DIY for the transmission mount?
I checked out Lindsey's site, as well as Clark's. Googled as well...
I know mine is shot, and REALLY hoping not to have to drop the trans to do the job. If anyone has a DIY out there, I'd appreciate the help.
DWR
I know mine is shot, and REALLY hoping not to have to drop the trans to do the job. If anyone has a DIY out there, I'd appreciate the help.
DWR
11-26-2012, 01:27 PM
#2
Rainman
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Just did this a few days ago...
Put the back of the car on stands/blocks, as you will remove both rear wheels.
Remove 10mm nuts that hold the fuel filter to the trans x-member.
Put your jack under the transmission and lift slightly to take the weight off the hanger mount.
Using a bunch of extensions and a 13mm socket you can loosen the trans mount hanger nuts from the passenger wheel well.
Use a 1/4" extension or a thin long shank allen key to drive the bolts out of the mount, they can stay in the transmission. Lower the trans all the way, the trans will hang on the torque tube.
17mm socket removes the bolt on either side that holds the transmission crossmember to the car.
Put the jack under the passenger side rear arm/disc/hub and take the strain off the shock. Use 22mm socket to remove lower shock bolt, let the arm down and hang as low as it will go. You can now slide the whole crossmember out through the wheel well.
If you are doing the urethane "mod"...use a LOT of tape on the bottom and sides of the mount, as the urethane WILL leak its way out if you run short.
Put the back of the car on stands/blocks, as you will remove both rear wheels.
Remove 10mm nuts that hold the fuel filter to the trans x-member.
Put your jack under the transmission and lift slightly to take the weight off the hanger mount.
Using a bunch of extensions and a 13mm socket you can loosen the trans mount hanger nuts from the passenger wheel well.
Use a 1/4" extension or a thin long shank allen key to drive the bolts out of the mount, they can stay in the transmission. Lower the trans all the way, the trans will hang on the torque tube.
17mm socket removes the bolt on either side that holds the transmission crossmember to the car.
Put the jack under the passenger side rear arm/disc/hub and take the strain off the shock. Use 22mm socket to remove lower shock bolt, let the arm down and hang as low as it will go. You can now slide the whole crossmember out through the wheel well.
If you are doing the urethane "mod"...use a LOT of tape on the bottom and sides of the mount, as the urethane WILL leak its way out if you run short.
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11-26-2012, 07:59 PM
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Oh, cool! Thanks for the tips... helps a ton, since I'm not familiar with the Porsche's yet. I'm still stuck in BMW world.
Any chance you took any more photo's of your process?
Any chance you took any more photo's of your process?
11-26-2012, 10:33 PM
#4
Rainman
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Nope, those are all because this was on a customer's car as I did the trans mount for him.
When you actually get under there and take a look it should be pretty straightforward.
When you actually get under there and take a look it should be pretty straightforward.
11-26-2012, 11:24 PM
#5
How long did it take you?
11-26-2012, 11:29 PM
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It's very simple and V2's instructions are enough. As he said, when you see it you will get it. You do not remove the trans, just support it. Do a search here on RL. There's a lot of info on it.
11-27-2012, 12:39 AM
#7
Trending Topics
11-28-2012, 11:05 AM
#12
Urethane Semi-Solid Trans mount for 944
The solid tranny mounts have some serious vibration problems, which means keeping a very close eye on every fastener. Like yours, my trans swung around like a bull's pair. In fact, I started to have trouble with the trans cooler fouling on the coilovers during high G left turns.
There is an alternative to a solid mount. You can surround the stock mount with a block of Rockwell 80 hardness Urethane. I did this several years ago, and it solved the problem nicely with no ill effects. Its strong enough to positively locate the trans, but compliant enough to avoid vibration problems.
- Get everything super clean. You want good adhesion.
- Build a simple dam across the cross member on either side of the trans mount. You want these dams to be nicely sealed, so use some plastic sheet. The sides of a gallon plastic jug are a good source material. Seal the dams up around all their edges with duct tape to avoid leaking.
- Check that the cross member is sitting level on your bench. Shim it level if it’s not.
- Mix your urethane, and pour it in.
- In 24 hours or so, tear the dams off and it’s good to go.
The material is from McMaster Carr, link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8644k11/=1lmgpl
Part number# 8644k1..Price $30
Here's a picture of the finished job, which is dead simple.
This urethane mod has worked flawlessly for four seasons in my car, and similar periods in several others. The advantantages: - No additional parts/mods/hack; it’s cheap, and simple to do.
- Retained mechanical damping that deflects to absorb shock loads. Its much stiffer than stock, but not the completly rigid hard mount/hard brace approach
- No mechanical couplings to transmit vibration/shock loads etc
__________________
Original Post by: Tony Kelly '89 951
TrackVision founder, PCA Potomac Exec, PCA National certified instructor
944 SuperCup champ 2004, 2005
The solid tranny mounts have some serious vibration problems, which means keeping a very close eye on every fastener. Like yours, my trans swung around like a bull's pair. In fact, I started to have trouble with the trans cooler fouling on the coilovers during high G left turns.
There is an alternative to a solid mount. You can surround the stock mount with a block of Rockwell 80 hardness Urethane. I did this several years ago, and it solved the problem nicely with no ill effects. Its strong enough to positively locate the trans, but compliant enough to avoid vibration problems.
- Get everything super clean. You want good adhesion.
- Build a simple dam across the cross member on either side of the trans mount. You want these dams to be nicely sealed, so use some plastic sheet. The sides of a gallon plastic jug are a good source material. Seal the dams up around all their edges with duct tape to avoid leaking.
- Check that the cross member is sitting level on your bench. Shim it level if it’s not.
- Mix your urethane, and pour it in.
- In 24 hours or so, tear the dams off and it’s good to go.
The material is from McMaster Carr, link: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8644k11/=1lmgpl
Part number# 8644k1..Price $30
Here's a picture of the finished job, which is dead simple.
This urethane mod has worked flawlessly for four seasons in my car, and similar periods in several others. The advantantages: - No additional parts/mods/hack; it’s cheap, and simple to do.
- Retained mechanical damping that deflects to absorb shock loads. Its much stiffer than stock, but not the completly rigid hard mount/hard brace approach
- No mechanical couplings to transmit vibration/shock loads etc
__________________
Original Post by: Tony Kelly '89 951
TrackVision founder, PCA Potomac Exec, PCA National certified instructor
944 SuperCup champ 2004, 2005
Last edited by Bob_in_Chicago; 11-28-2012 at 11:07 AM. Reason: typo
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11-30-2012, 07:15 PM
#14
Rainman
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Did it again this morning on customer's car. Pictures in operational order. From driving car to removed and disassembled crossmember took 30 minutes.
Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
1) Put the back of the car on stands/blocks, as you will remove both rear wheels.
2) Remove 10mm nuts that hold the fuel filter to the trans x-member.
Put your jack under the transmission and lift slightly to take the weight off the hanger mount.
3) Using a bunch of extensions and a 13mm socket you can loosen the trans mount hanger nuts from the passenger wheel well.
4) Use a 1/4" extension or a thin long shank allen key to drive the bolts out of the mount, they can stay in the transmission. Lower the trans all the way, the trans will hang on the torque tube.
5) Put the jack under the passenger side rear arm/disc/hub and take the strain off the shock. Use 22mm socket to remove lower shock bolt, let the arm down and hang as low as it will go.
6) 17mm socket removes the bolt on either side that holds the transmission crossmember to the car.
7) You can now slide the whole crossmember out through the wheel well.
2) Remove 10mm nuts that hold the fuel filter to the trans x-member.
Put your jack under the transmission and lift slightly to take the weight off the hanger mount.
3) Using a bunch of extensions and a 13mm socket you can loosen the trans mount hanger nuts from the passenger wheel well.
4) Use a 1/4" extension or a thin long shank allen key to drive the bolts out of the mount, they can stay in the transmission. Lower the trans all the way, the trans will hang on the torque tube.
5) Put the jack under the passenger side rear arm/disc/hub and take the strain off the shock. Use 22mm socket to remove lower shock bolt, let the arm down and hang as low as it will go.
6) 17mm socket removes the bolt on either side that holds the transmission crossmember to the car.
7) You can now slide the whole crossmember out through the wheel well.
11-30-2012, 07:17 PM
#15
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Apply elbow grease to clean parts up. Use a crap ton of tape on the mount to minimize leaking, it will still probably find its way out. Mix urethane thoroughly and then pour into mount in a pan that is non-sticking. Find an amusing use for the remainder of the urethane (that is an old receiver dryer that I am making a mold of because I can).
After a few hours the urethane will be hard enough you can remove the tape, but you should let it sit overnight (ideally up to 2 days) to cure fully. When the tape comes off you can admire how the urethane takes up the shape of the tape on the outside of the mount...
After a few hours the urethane will be hard enough you can remove the tape, but you should let it sit overnight (ideally up to 2 days) to cure fully. When the tape comes off you can admire how the urethane takes up the shape of the tape on the outside of the mount...
Last edited by V2Rocket; 11-30-2012 at 07:54 PM.
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