When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I ordered one can and had plenty. I did it as shown in post 12 (wrapped up the mount only and didn't fill the crossbar channel). If you fill the cross member channel like some of the early posts, I guess it depends how much you fill, but no need to do that. I also used the 60 hardness stuff and it's been doing fine for years. Also check the C bracket pieces for cracks and consider boxing them in with a bit of scrap steel.
Just finished and installed urethane factory trans mount. Turned out well, I used 3M Super Fast drying window weld $24 at local auto parts store. 3M estimates 55-60 durometer. I haven't been able to drive it yet or even start the engine, headers are out for Cerakote, any way I'm curious what to expect since I have a Spec 2+ clutch (Hate It) Will it increase engagement chatter or possibly make it better??? Wishful Thinking
I did this a year ago on both my cabrio and turbo and the most noticeable effect on the turbo, albeit subtle, is that the motion of the transaxle seems much less when the car is being driven hard. So entering a turn or cornering hard one can feel a slight swing or awkward transition in the rear that I always interpreted as the transaxle swinging around a bit. With this change it is still there, but not as noticeable. On the cabrio who the heck can notice anything with all the slop in the chassis...
Great thread. Inspired me to give it a shot and super happy with the results. Also totally amazed it was so easy to remove and reinstall everything. Kudos to the reenlist community for the great tips!
Just followed this how to guide to install my lindsey racing semi solid mount. (They had it on sale and o bought one on impulse before i knew about this mod). I would recommend to people to take the fuel filter strap off and leave the mounting bracket in place as i had one bolt break and didn't attempt the other. They are about $1 at rock auto so if you are planning this and ordering something else might want to get 2 just in case.
I also used the lower tranny without the mount as an opportunity to install a short shifter and ball joint linkage which was a massive pia on my car as old shifter did not want to come off even after lots of penetrating oil and heat. I couldn't imagine doing the full job with the tranny higher and the mount in place.
I have vibrations in my shifter during acceleration and am replacing everything in the shifter to tighten it up. Also have the Only944 short shifter plus linkage installed. If my vibrations are indeed from the transaxle mount after all this, I'm looking forward to using my new Quick Jack system I just purchased since I expect to be under my car a lot during the cooler winter months.
I have vibrations in my shifter during acceleration and am replacing everything in the shifter to tighten it up. Also have the Only944 short shifter plus linkage installed. If my vibrations are indeed from the transaxle mount after all this, I'm looking forward to using my new Quick Jack system I just purchased since I expect to be under my car a lot during the cooler winter months.
FWIW i had vibrations in my shifter.. further investigation proved the main shift rod was rubbing a bit on the trans.. must have bent it ever- so- slightly.. bent it back.. problem solved!
Great thread, thanks Spencer for the write up, it definitely made things much easier! The only trouble I had was getting the fuel filter out of the way when sliding out the carrier. First I loosened the filter clamp to rotate the bracket out of the way but still not enough. Then I ended up removing the small intermediate bracket that goes between the transmission and the mount which was enough room. Also, I would recommend before attempting to slide out the carrier, you go around to driver's side wheel well and look at the clearance between the carrier and the selector lever. I tried twisting the carrier at first to clear the fuel filter and got it hung up on the selector shaft rubber boot. You have to pull the carrier straight out without twisting since the clearance is limited.
Oh, did you guys leave the old rubber from the mount and just fill in the gaps with urethane or did you cut the old rubber out and apart as much as you could? How much can you remove?
When I did this I left the old rubber in place and just filled the voids with urethane. No reason to remove the rubber really.
Originally Posted by ElRicardo
+1 to V rocket. Followed his instructions a few years ago, worked like a charm.
Many thanks, looking forward to getting this renewed and in the car as it killed my CV joint and left me stranded for 6 hours, thanks AAA! The old rubber doesn't look too bad; I expected it to be cracked and falling apart. However, there is evidence that the trans was swinging from side to side from the shiny metal inside the mount on the 2 metal side mounts where the mounting screws attach. It's a weird mount but nice to see it has metal parts to keep the transaxle from falling down if the mount fails completely. The rubber is fairly soft in there but that's after 160k miles. I suppose leaving the rubber intact and surrounding it with harder urethane will leave more vibration isolation and comfort as the softer OE rubber will still flex first while the new urethane will not allow the transaxle to move much, kind of a progressive mount. I just hope the original rubber doesn't disintegrate but that's just me overthinking it all!
02-02-2021, 10:35 PM
