3.0l 16v turbo rod bearing failure
11-07-2012, 11:03 AM
#61
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Duke – I took a good look at the picture you sent and along with the new measurement of how far down the damage is the MID will probably work. I can‘t guarantee it without actually machining the block but I am pretty sure it will work. I would recommend filling the voids next to all the cylinders with the right structural epoxy to help stiffen up the block.
11-08-2012, 12:59 PM
#64
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
That Scott Goodyear video is just crazy!
Promising info Chris. I've spoken to a very good shop locally that does both dry and wet sleeving. I will drop off the block there next week. If the block can be saved I might as well try to save the crank and do a little offset stroking... maybe just 2.5mm and up the bore a little to make a 3.1-3.2l.
But right now I'm enjoying a snowy New York City
Promising info Chris. I've spoken to a very good shop locally that does both dry and wet sleeving. I will drop off the block there next week. If the block can be saved I might as well try to save the crank and do a little offset stroking... maybe just 2.5mm and up the bore a little to make a 3.1-3.2l.
But right now I'm enjoying a snowy New York City
11-08-2012, 02:06 PM
#65
That Scott Goodyear drives like a mad! Seems like a really quick car and also faster than many on the straights..?
Are you keeping the pistons in this case? Is it Ultra, and do they do offset stroke there? You heard any prices?
Good luck with the block!
How much is it possible to go up in bore with the 3L block if going dry sleeves?
Are steel sleeves stronger or more scratch resistant than alusil or is it just easier/cheaper to hone or drill larger bores in steel?
Are you keeping the pistons in this case? Is it Ultra, and do they do offset stroke there? You heard any prices?
Good luck with the block!
How much is it possible to go up in bore with the 3L block if going dry sleeves?
Are steel sleeves stronger or more scratch resistant than alusil or is it just easier/cheaper to hone or drill larger bores in steel?
11-08-2012, 02:14 PM
#66
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
That Scott Goodyear drives like a mad! Seems like a really quick car and also faster than many on the straights..?
Are you keeping the pistons in this case? Is it Ultra, and do they do offset stroke there? You heard any prices?
Good luck with the block!
How much is it possible to go up in bore with the 3L block if going dry sleeves?
Are steel sleeves stronger or more scratch resistant than alusil or is it just easier/cheaper to hone or drill larger bores in steel?
Are you keeping the pistons in this case? Is it Ultra, and do they do offset stroke there? You heard any prices?
Good luck with the block!
How much is it possible to go up in bore with the 3L block if going dry sleeves?
Are steel sleeves stronger or more scratch resistant than alusil or is it just easier/cheaper to hone or drill larger bores in steel?
At least 105.5 should be possible with dry sleeves. But being a turbo is probably safer to keep a tad thicker cylinders and just go up a tiny bit in boost pressure to compensate.
11-08-2012, 03:33 PM
#67
Rennlist Member
That Scott Goodyear video is just crazy!
Promising info Chris. I've spoken to a very good shop locally that does both dry and wet sleeving. I will drop off the block there next week. If the block can be saved I might as well try to save the crank and do a little offset stroking... maybe just 2.5mm and up the bore a little to make a 3.1-3.2l.
But right now I'm enjoying a snowy New York City
Promising info Chris. I've spoken to a very good shop locally that does both dry and wet sleeving. I will drop off the block there next week. If the block can be saved I might as well try to save the crank and do a little offset stroking... maybe just 2.5mm and up the bore a little to make a 3.1-3.2l.
But right now I'm enjoying a snowy New York City
11-08-2012, 03:58 PM
#68
If I can use the block I will need other pistons (to work with the sleeves). Ultra Motors can do offset stroking, but I discussed pricing with them about that.
At least 105.5 should be possible with dry sleeves. But being a turbo is probably safer to keep a tad thicker cylinders and just go up a tiny bit in boost pressure to compensate.
At least 105.5 should be possible with dry sleeves. But being a turbo is probably safer to keep a tad thicker cylinders and just go up a tiny bit in boost pressure to compensate.
What would 105,5 give plus a stroke of 2,5mm? How do you calculate?
Vacation in NY right now, isn't there a new storm coming in that way?
11-08-2012, 06:52 PM
#69
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That Scott Goodyear drives like a mad! Seems like a really quick car and also faster than many on the straights..?
Are you keeping the pistons in this case? Is it Ultra, and do they do offset stroke there? You heard any prices?
Good luck with the block!
How much is it possible to go up in bore with the 3L block if going dry sleeves?
Are steel sleeves stronger or more scratch resistant than alusil or is it just easier/cheaper to hone or drill larger bores in steel?
Are you keeping the pistons in this case? Is it Ultra, and do they do offset stroke there? You heard any prices?
Good luck with the block!
How much is it possible to go up in bore with the 3L block if going dry sleeves?
Are steel sleeves stronger or more scratch resistant than alusil or is it just easier/cheaper to hone or drill larger bores in steel?
I had a customer really trash his engine (massive detonation) – the pistons lost all the material above the first ring land, the head was junk but the sleeves just needed a mild hone to be back in action.
11-08-2012, 06:53 PM
#70
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That Scott Goodyear video is just crazy!
Promising info Chris. I've spoken to a very good shop locally that does both dry and wet sleeving. I will drop off the block there next week. If the block can be saved I might as well try to save the crank and do a little offset stroking... maybe just 2.5mm and up the bore a little to make a 3.1-3.2l.
But right now I'm enjoying a snowy New York City
Promising info Chris. I've spoken to a very good shop locally that does both dry and wet sleeving. I will drop off the block there next week. If the block can be saved I might as well try to save the crank and do a little offset stroking... maybe just 2.5mm and up the bore a little to make a 3.1-3.2l.
But right now I'm enjoying a snowy New York City
11-08-2012, 07:39 PM
#71
Drifting
11-09-2012, 09:14 AM
#74
Rennlist Member
Would dry-sumping have avoided this, or would it have happened anyway. I'm starting to wonder even if dry-sumping is the silver bullet for these no.2 rod bearing failures?
11-09-2012, 11:29 AM
#75
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the answer is to spend a good deal more $$$$ and do full teardowns, often.
if it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck and ****s like a duck, it's a racing program.
or just....
if it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck and ****s like a duck, it's a racing program.
or just....