Oil change from top
#16
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I often wonder how many new people to the list throw up their hands in frustration and never come back from threads like this.
The man asked a simple question about whether anyone had any experience with a from the top oil extractor and instead got all this vitriol. Sad.
OP: I recently bought one of these but haven't used it yet. My plan is to use this method in the winter when I don't want to crawl around on a cold concrete floor and use the drain plug in the summer.
I did a fair amount of research and there are many who swear by the pump method (it's factory procedure for M-B apparently) and there are those that have concerns with sludge in the bottom of the oil pan not being drained. I figure if I do every other I'll be fine. I'm off the week of Christmas and am planning on changing the oil then, I'll let you know how it goes.
Cheers everyone and have fun with your cars.
The man asked a simple question about whether anyone had any experience with a from the top oil extractor and instead got all this vitriol. Sad.
OP: I recently bought one of these but haven't used it yet. My plan is to use this method in the winter when I don't want to crawl around on a cold concrete floor and use the drain plug in the summer.
I did a fair amount of research and there are many who swear by the pump method (it's factory procedure for M-B apparently) and there are those that have concerns with sludge in the bottom of the oil pan not being drained. I figure if I do every other I'll be fine. I'm off the week of Christmas and am planning on changing the oil then, I'll let you know how it goes.
Cheers everyone and have fun with your cars.
#17
I did it all the time on the boat engine. The pan sits an inch from the bottom and is in the bulge so any oil that leaks is really hard to get out without making a big mess. It is very common practice with boat shops and they would have many different pumps (manual, electric etc) to choose from.
I don't do it on the 944 because I put it on a lift to service it so everything is easy to get at.
I don't do it on the 944 because I put it on a lift to service it so everything is easy to get at.
#18
Race Car
Thanks for your opinions, but with all due respect the intent of my question was to see if anyone has used the "from the top" form of oil change, not debate weather dealing with ramps, jack stands, etc is a PITA.
A simple "I have no experience with this technique and can't offer any meaningful advice " would have been a more appropriate response.
Don't think I purchased the wrong car - just think I got responses (with the exception of one((thanks)) from the wrong audience.
A simple "I have no experience with this technique and can't offer any meaningful advice " would have been a more appropriate response.
Don't think I purchased the wrong car - just think I got responses (with the exception of one((thanks)) from the wrong audience.
I don't have any experience with it, but I have been under the impression for some time that one can't get all of the oil out with a pump.
#19
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I tried the “pump on drill” method long time ago on another car, but found it a mess to store all the oily parts (pump and hoses) between oil changes and I didn’t have good control over where the suction tube ended up, meaning that there likely would be more residual oil using this method.
I actually find it very easy to change oil (without spilling a drop) on our cars and find it surprising that nobody has mentioned the same method I use (no crawling under the car):
Tools: oil drain container (for example ), socket for plug, long extender w. wobble head, a regular long extended, a regular medium extender and a torque wrench (to make sure the drain plug can be removed easily).
Jack up the right side of the car, remove right front wheel, push the container under the plug, assemble the socket-extenders-wrench, unscrew the plug and let it drop on the mesh on top of the container.
While the oil is flowing a little less than in the beginning, carefully lower the jack so the chassis touches the container (oil pan tilting slightly to the right). When the flow is reduced to a few drops/min raise the jack high enough so the front wheel can be mounted, when oil stops dripping retrieve the plug, put it in the socket with the extenders and screw it in manually with the torque wrench detached. Trying to thread the plug with the wobbly extenders requires some skills/luck. Attach wrench, tighten plug, remove and cap container, mount front wheel, lower the jack and tighten lug nuts. That is it. Oh, yeah, don’t forget to refill with new oil.
Oil change this way just takes a little longer than writing this post.
Laust
I actually find it very easy to change oil (without spilling a drop) on our cars and find it surprising that nobody has mentioned the same method I use (no crawling under the car):
Tools: oil drain container (for example ), socket for plug, long extender w. wobble head, a regular long extended, a regular medium extender and a torque wrench (to make sure the drain plug can be removed easily).
Jack up the right side of the car, remove right front wheel, push the container under the plug, assemble the socket-extenders-wrench, unscrew the plug and let it drop on the mesh on top of the container.
While the oil is flowing a little less than in the beginning, carefully lower the jack so the chassis touches the container (oil pan tilting slightly to the right). When the flow is reduced to a few drops/min raise the jack high enough so the front wheel can be mounted, when oil stops dripping retrieve the plug, put it in the socket with the extenders and screw it in manually with the torque wrench detached. Trying to thread the plug with the wobbly extenders requires some skills/luck. Attach wrench, tighten plug, remove and cap container, mount front wheel, lower the jack and tighten lug nuts. That is it. Oh, yeah, don’t forget to refill with new oil.
Oil change this way just takes a little longer than writing this post.
Laust
#21
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Oil filter change is what torques me off, I have tried all the tricks, rags around filter, bag around filter, hole in top of filter ect......... still have to Simple Green and hose off oil drippings
#22
Thefu
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and have the ability to drain overnight
I have that luxury, as I'm sure others do. It works IF YOU HAVE THE TIME.
Thank. You.
#23
Thefu
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Thanks for your opinions, but with all due respect the intent of my question was to see if anyone has used the "from the top" form of oil change, not debate weather dealing with ramps, jack stands, etc is a PITA.
A simple "I have no experience with this technique and can't offer any meaningful advice " would have been a more appropriate response.
Don't think I purchased the wrong car - just think I got responses (with the exception of one((thanks)) from the wrong audience.
A simple "I have no experience with this technique and can't offer any meaningful advice " would have been a more appropriate response.
Don't think I purchased the wrong car - just think I got responses (with the exception of one((thanks)) from the wrong audience.
There's the right way to change your oil, as specified in Porsche Workshop Manual, 944, Volume 1, Section 17-1, and then there's a bunch of other ways that add needless complexity, at the expense of incomplete and/or insufficient results.
I think all the responses that you did not agree with were trying to steer you in the direction you should have gone, for your and your car's benefit.
Asking for validation of something that the collective wisdom disagrees with is probably going to leave you frustrated, as we see here. Our advice is, again, to your benefit (perhaps at the expense of a bit of ribbing here and there) and you car's. Oil change time is not simply the time to get rid of old fluid, it's also the time to get close to parts of the car that aren't observed during daily operation. Parts that may be going bad, parts that if/when they do go bad can cause significant cost in dollars, time, and potentially health. So, while the front end is up in the air, and you're underneath removing the engine guards, look at your front end bushings, ball joints, brake lines, brake pads, a-arms, etc, etc, etc. Pumping the oil is just not going to give you the "oneness" that these cars DEMAND. They're old, some are tired, and they need TLC on a routine basis to keep on the road. Neglect at your own peril.
#24
Three Wheelin'
Personally, I would never use one of those "suck from the top" oil change devices. There are particles suspended in that liquid that I just don't see a vacuum pulling adequately out of the sump.
The only oil change for me is getting the car hot, draining it from the plug, replacing the filter, then filling the car back up.
The only oil change for me is getting the car hot, draining it from the plug, replacing the filter, then filling the car back up.
#26
''Has anyone performed a DIY oil change on a 951 from the top with a pump?
Since it is a PITA to access the drain plug below, this from the top method seems compelling.
Thanks ''
No.
Since it is a PITA to access the drain plug below, this from the top method seems compelling.
Thanks ''
No.
#27
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CK, I'm with you. I let mine drain for a few days because I was waiting on an oil pressure sending unit, and it was not nearly as messy a job as normal.
#28
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Quick drain oil plug
http://www.race-mart.com/Engine-Oil-...gs_c_1133.html
Replace standard oil drain plug with one. Once you mate the two halves together it drains out. Theres a hose nipple so you can put a length of hose on it to drain into a bucket. Much simpler than messing with a vacuum to drain from the top or lifting the car up. I drive mine onto some thick pieces of wood (I never EVER use ramps), reach under to plug the drain part on, then change filter.
http://www.race-mart.com/Engine-Oil-...gs_c_1133.html
Replace standard oil drain plug with one. Once you mate the two halves together it drains out. Theres a hose nipple so you can put a length of hose on it to drain into a bucket. Much simpler than messing with a vacuum to drain from the top or lifting the car up. I drive mine onto some thick pieces of wood (I never EVER use ramps), reach under to plug the drain part on, then change filter.
#29
Thefu
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Quick drain oil plug
http://www.race-mart.com/Engine-Oil-...gs_c_1133.html
Replace standard oil drain plug with one. Once you mate the two halves together it drains out. Theres a hose nipple so you can put a length of hose on it to drain into a bucket. Much simpler than messing with a vacuum to drain from the top or lifting the car up. I drive mine onto some thick pieces of wood (I never EVER use ramps), reach under to plug the drain part on, then change filter.
http://www.race-mart.com/Engine-Oil-...gs_c_1133.html
Replace standard oil drain plug with one. Once you mate the two halves together it drains out. Theres a hose nipple so you can put a length of hose on it to drain into a bucket. Much simpler than messing with a vacuum to drain from the top or lifting the car up. I drive mine onto some thick pieces of wood (I never EVER use ramps), reach under to plug the drain part on, then change filter.
I do have this very system on my Exploder and love the significant decrease in oil mess, but it is very slow draining...
#30
RL Community Team
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A friend of mine uses the vacuum from the top oil changer on his 968, he says he likes it.
I would never use such a device. IMHO it complicates a simple job, and adds the possibility of not getting all the oil (and crap) out of the pan.
Really, the drain plug is not hard to get to... Ramps and a 15mm socket. Don't forget the new crush washer. The filter is the hard part but there are some tricks.
I would never use such a device. IMHO it complicates a simple job, and adds the possibility of not getting all the oil (and crap) out of the pan.
Really, the drain plug is not hard to get to... Ramps and a 15mm socket. Don't forget the new crush washer. The filter is the hard part but there are some tricks.