Patrick's build thread. (IT RUNS!)
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
There's always been a bit of a sister car thing going on between these two I've thought.
The stock bumper does look better I agree, but the alternative may just be superior in terms of aero and clearance.
Transmission is a fully rebuilt at CMS 968 6 speed. I had a GT2 trans that was going to be put into this car but I opted for the easier installation so sold that one and had this put together by Roger at CMS. They added one of their billet side plates, some extra internal X drilling, and tapped it for an external oil cooler. Also has Motorsport axles and CVs bought through LR. KAAZ 6 plate lsd.
The tyres are Nitto NT01 315/18" or Hoosier 305/645mm. I went with the Nittos to enter a single event this year that doesn't allow Slicks although have clearly missed this event. Hope they're ok for next year. I used these same tyres based on what you said Tony. Not sure why they stick out so far. Not going to matter which way we set the struts as they'll just stick out further at the top or the bottom. Obviously we want some decent neg so they stick out at the bottom more.
Oh, and the pics with the splitter is one that I bought from you. We had to modify it a little at the rear to gain more clearance from the tyres. Also will make a couple of changes to the front to increase downforce due to incoming dual element wing.
Hopefully we'll both have fast cars soon enough Fred!!
The tyres are Nitto NT01 315/18" or Hoosier 305/645mm. I went with the Nittos to enter a single event this year that doesn't allow Slicks although have clearly missed this event. Hope they're ok for next year. I used these same tyres based on what you said Tony. Not sure why they stick out so far. Not going to matter which way we set the struts as they'll just stick out further at the top or the bottom. Obviously we want some decent neg so they stick out at the bottom more.
Oh, and the pics with the splitter is one that I bought from you. We had to modify it a little at the rear to gain more clearance from the tyres. Also will make a couple of changes to the front to increase downforce due to incoming dual element wing.
Hopefully we'll both have fast cars soon enough Fred!!
#17
Rennlist Junkie Forever
There's always been a bit of a sister car thing going on between these two I've thought.
The stock bumper does look better I agree, but the alternative may just be superior in terms of aero and clearance.
Transmission is a fully rebuilt at CMS 968 6 speed. I had a GT2 trans that was going to be put into this car but I opted for the easier installation so sold that one and had this put together by Roger at CMS. They added one of their billet side plates, some extra internal X drilling, and tapped it for an external oil cooler. Also has Motorsport axles and CVs bought through LR.
The tyres are Nitto NT01 315/18" or Hoosier 305/645mm. I went with the Nittos to enter a single event this year that doesn't allow Slicks although have clearly missed this event. Hope they're ok for next year. I used these same tyres based on what you said Tony. Not sure why they stick out so far. Not going to matter which way we set the struts as they'll just stick out further at the top or the bottom. Obviously we want some decent neg so they stick out at the bottom more.
Hopefully we'll both have fast cars soon enough Fred!!
The stock bumper does look better I agree, but the alternative may just be superior in terms of aero and clearance.
Transmission is a fully rebuilt at CMS 968 6 speed. I had a GT2 trans that was going to be put into this car but I opted for the easier installation so sold that one and had this put together by Roger at CMS. They added one of their billet side plates, some extra internal X drilling, and tapped it for an external oil cooler. Also has Motorsport axles and CVs bought through LR.
The tyres are Nitto NT01 315/18" or Hoosier 305/645mm. I went with the Nittos to enter a single event this year that doesn't allow Slicks although have clearly missed this event. Hope they're ok for next year. I used these same tyres based on what you said Tony. Not sure why they stick out so far. Not going to matter which way we set the struts as they'll just stick out further at the top or the bottom. Obviously we want some decent neg so they stick out at the bottom more.
Hopefully we'll both have fast cars soon enough Fred!!
How are you going to get the oil pump primed when it's higher than the oil level in the transmission (or is it..)?
The comments I made about the struts were so that you can use a wheel that has less offset, which makes it stick out a lot less from the fenders.
Nice splitter BTW..
TonyG
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Haven't decided exactly where to put that pump. It may wind up under the car with the cooler also. It will sit close to the right level in the wheel well anyway. Have to measure that.
The Fikses were custom made using offsets provided by Broadfoot based on their kits. Having said that, I think they only ever used 285s up front so perhaps that was my error. I haven't checked inside clearance yet but it would be a pain to have to change offsets on them now.
With your large rear wing, do you have any tendency to understeer even with the splitter?
The Fikses were custom made using offsets provided by Broadfoot based on their kits. Having said that, I think they only ever used 285s up front so perhaps that was my error. I haven't checked inside clearance yet but it would be a pain to have to change offsets on them now.
With your large rear wing, do you have any tendency to understeer even with the splitter?
#19
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Haven't decided exactly where to put that pump. It may wind up under the car with the cooler also. It will sit close to the right level in the wheel well anyway. Have to measure that.
The Fikses were custom made using offsets provided by Broadfoot based on their kits. Having said that, I think they only ever used 285s up front so perhaps that was my error. I haven't checked inside clearance yet but it would be a pain to have to change offsets on them now.
With your large rear wing, do you have any tendency to understeer even with the splitter?
The Fikses were custom made using offsets provided by Broadfoot based on their kits. Having said that, I think they only ever used 285s up front so perhaps that was my error. I haven't checked inside clearance yet but it would be a pain to have to change offsets on them now.
With your large rear wing, do you have any tendency to understeer even with the splitter?
And no... I have no push at high speed. A lot has to do with the differential. If you're on the gas, the car rotates. If you're off of the gas it doesn't. And I run the wing pretty flat.
TonyG
#21
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Hey... I just noticed some sort of a horizontal piece that runs next to your cut down spare tire well. Did you put that in?
I cut our my spare tire well, like you, but I went much higher and don't have that horizontal piece.
TonyG
I cut our my spare tire well, like you, but I went much higher and don't have that horizontal piece.
TonyG
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You might be able to machine the inside mating surface of the Fikses to bring it in (assuming you have wheel-to-strut distance... which is why you move the struts the maximum amount away from the wheel... using the eccentric bolt at the bottom of the strut).
And no... I have no push at high speed. A lot has to do with the differential. If you're on the gas, the car rotates. If you're off of the gas it doesn't. And I run the wing pretty flat.
TonyG
And no... I have no push at high speed. A lot has to do with the differential. If you're on the gas, the car rotates. If you're off of the gas it doesn't. And I run the wing pretty flat.
TonyG
Also, do you have any issues with the splitter pulling down with the stock front nose? I've had this happen in the past. Makes it look like a big whaleshark openmouth feeding for krill. Can't find a better pic, but here is the old car even without a splitter. They cut the inside of the nose piece to fit the I/C which weakened it. Do you run your splitter with metal stays? Pics?
Thanks Derek. Be nice to put a 3L donk up front one of these years too!
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
By horizontal piece, do you mean the actual 'fitted floor' to the cut down wheel well? Otherwise? It was decided to utilise part of the wheel well to put the surge tank, fuel pumps in. Maybe oil pump too. I'm hoping it allows clearance for a diffuser in the future otherwise we'll have to relocate that stuff inside I guess.
#24
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Do you have any pics of your car from the front? What size wheels are you running up there?
Also, do you have any issues with the splitter pulling down with the stock front nose? I've had this happen in the past. Makes it look like a big whaleshark openmouth feeding for krill. Can't find a better pic, but here is the old car even without a splitter. They cut the inside of the nose piece to fit the I/C which weakened it. Do you run your splitter with metal stays? Pics?
Thanks Derek. Be nice to put a 3L donk up front one of these years too!
Also, do you have any issues with the splitter pulling down with the stock front nose? I've had this happen in the past. Makes it look like a big whaleshark openmouth feeding for krill. Can't find a better pic, but here is the old car even without a splitter. They cut the inside of the nose piece to fit the I/C which weakened it. Do you run your splitter with metal stays? Pics?
Thanks Derek. Be nice to put a 3L donk up front one of these years too!
I have the car on the lift right now so I can't take a picture from the front, but I will tomorrow.
I have a fiberglass front nose (a replica of the stock piece) and it's strong enough to deal with the down force from the splitter. But with the poly stock nose piece, you should support it with at least 2 supports through the poly nose to the aluminum bumper below the fog lights.
TonyG
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thought I'd change this thread to encompass much of the rest of the build now that we've covered more than just the Broadfoot nose piece question.
So here are the specs so far. There will be the odd change made to it but essentially this is it currently or being completed now.
D9 GTS lights replacing the stock pop up system.
A couple of different splitters to choose from.
993 Oil cooler.
Custom front mount intercooler.
Engine bay seam welded and repainted.
Full carbon fibre hood with D9 vents.
A/C & heater removed.
Smaller alternator w/ CEP bracket.
Custom SFR 3.5" - 5" S/S exhaust.
Moton Clubsport 2 way adj coilovers with OEM torsion bars removed.
Motons:
The full race setup as suggested:
160 kg/cm front springs + 30 kg/cm tender spring
200 kg/cm rear springs (torsion bars deleted) + 40 kg/cm tender spring
Big Reds on CEP full floating slotted rotors.
Racers Edge A arms, billet hubs and solid bushings all round.
Tarrett adj swaybars front and rear.
LR Semi solid engine mounts.
All the stock brake system removed.
Stock fuse box removed. Replaced with Motec PDM30. Very slick and programmable way of getting rid of fuses and relays. http://www.motec.com/pdm30/pdm30overview/
All the stock wiring and harness removed. Replaced with Milspec wire.
New heated windscreen.
Full fibreglass dashboard with all the OEM 'stuff' underneath removed. (big weight saving)
Motec SDL3 Dash and SLM programmable shift light module. These are all my gauges! http://www.motec.com/sdl3/sdl3overview/ http://www.motec.com/slm/slmoverview/
Tilton floor mounted pedal and dual m/c setup.
Extended Steering wheel boss with quick release hub.
OMP raceseat moved back and down with welded in reinforced runners.
Custom control panel within reach. (Now being moved re passenger safety.)
RSR Carbon doors. These weigh something like 2-3 kgs with lexan windows installed. (not sure if these are going to work just yet. Had to have them ‘repaired’ once they got here.)
Fully stripped and caged and repainted interior. In a metallic silver. Cage goes through to front strut towers.
Stock roof with hatch replaced by single skin unit. Good gain in headroom.
Spare wheel well modified to be shortened by removing about 10cms off the base. 2x 044s and Surge tank to go in there.
Fully rebuilt and customised by California Motorsports 968 6 speed. Strengthened and increased cooling being the mods. See the custom billet sideplate in pics. Stayed with the stock gearing for now. KAAZ 6 plate 45/90 LSD.
LR race axles and CVs.
OEM Mo30 rear brakes for now.
Full lexan rear hatch.
Dual element rear wing from DJ engineering U.K. (Simon McBeath is a very accomplished / published aerodynamicist)
Wheels are 10.5" and 11.5" x 18" Fikse Mach V all black anodised. Either 315/18" Nitto NT01 on all 4 corners or Hoosier 305 / 320 R80 full slicks.
Broadfoot GT2 widebody flares.
Not far off:
Dry sumped 3L 8v racemotor. Motec or LINK ECU.
Any guesses how much the car will weigh?
Unfortunately probably going to move the control panel as it really doesn't work with passenger / instruction.
So here are the specs so far. There will be the odd change made to it but essentially this is it currently or being completed now.
D9 GTS lights replacing the stock pop up system.
A couple of different splitters to choose from.
993 Oil cooler.
Custom front mount intercooler.
Engine bay seam welded and repainted.
Full carbon fibre hood with D9 vents.
A/C & heater removed.
Smaller alternator w/ CEP bracket.
Custom SFR 3.5" - 5" S/S exhaust.
Moton Clubsport 2 way adj coilovers with OEM torsion bars removed.
Motons:
The full race setup as suggested:
160 kg/cm front springs + 30 kg/cm tender spring
200 kg/cm rear springs (torsion bars deleted) + 40 kg/cm tender spring
Big Reds on CEP full floating slotted rotors.
Racers Edge A arms, billet hubs and solid bushings all round.
Tarrett adj swaybars front and rear.
LR Semi solid engine mounts.
All the stock brake system removed.
Stock fuse box removed. Replaced with Motec PDM30. Very slick and programmable way of getting rid of fuses and relays. http://www.motec.com/pdm30/pdm30overview/
All the stock wiring and harness removed. Replaced with Milspec wire.
New heated windscreen.
Full fibreglass dashboard with all the OEM 'stuff' underneath removed. (big weight saving)
Motec SDL3 Dash and SLM programmable shift light module. These are all my gauges! http://www.motec.com/sdl3/sdl3overview/ http://www.motec.com/slm/slmoverview/
Tilton floor mounted pedal and dual m/c setup.
Extended Steering wheel boss with quick release hub.
OMP raceseat moved back and down with welded in reinforced runners.
Custom control panel within reach. (Now being moved re passenger safety.)
RSR Carbon doors. These weigh something like 2-3 kgs with lexan windows installed. (not sure if these are going to work just yet. Had to have them ‘repaired’ once they got here.)
Fully stripped and caged and repainted interior. In a metallic silver. Cage goes through to front strut towers.
Stock roof with hatch replaced by single skin unit. Good gain in headroom.
Spare wheel well modified to be shortened by removing about 10cms off the base. 2x 044s and Surge tank to go in there.
Fully rebuilt and customised by California Motorsports 968 6 speed. Strengthened and increased cooling being the mods. See the custom billet sideplate in pics. Stayed with the stock gearing for now. KAAZ 6 plate 45/90 LSD.
LR race axles and CVs.
OEM Mo30 rear brakes for now.
Full lexan rear hatch.
Dual element rear wing from DJ engineering U.K. (Simon McBeath is a very accomplished / published aerodynamicist)
Wheels are 10.5" and 11.5" x 18" Fikse Mach V all black anodised. Either 315/18" Nitto NT01 on all 4 corners or Hoosier 305 / 320 R80 full slicks.
Broadfoot GT2 widebody flares.
Not far off:
Dry sumped 3L 8v racemotor. Motec or LINK ECU.
Any guesses how much the car will weigh?
Unfortunately probably going to move the control panel as it really doesn't work with passenger / instruction.
Last edited by 333pg333; 10-21-2011 at 03:34 AM.
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Sid. Hell, I might even try a 1/4 mile in it once it's done just to represent the breed, haha.
Can't wait to see how much weight we've taken out of it. Of course adding the cage and big wheels won't help, but still...
Can't wait to see how much weight we've taken out of it. Of course adding the cage and big wheels won't help, but still...
#29
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Here's what I'm talking about. Look at how far up I cut out the spare tire well. You have some cross brace that I don't have. So it looks like you took your "cut out" up to that brace.
Have a look (and excuse the filthy transmission.... I blew out both CV cages & boots which threw grease everywhere at the last race).
TonyG
Have a look (and excuse the filthy transmission.... I blew out both CV cages & boots which threw grease everywhere at the last race).
TonyG
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here's what I'm talking about. Look at how far up I cut out the spare tire well. You have some cross brace that I don't have. So it looks like you took your "cut out" up to that brace.
Have a look (and excuse the filthy transmission.... I blew out both CV cages & boots which threw grease everywhere at the last race).
TonyG
Have a look (and excuse the filthy transmission.... I blew out both CV cages & boots which threw grease everywhere at the last race).
TonyG