Luke

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by jimbo1111:
<strong>posted by luke:
I was able to retain my stock temp sensor. saves $60.00. What about the alternator vent duct you had to remove. You also need some crazy looking silicone hose off set to clear the alternator. With most t04e housings you have to grind the intake manifold as well as the housing.Plus the water inlet has to be sharply bent or re welded to go over the compressor housing.The exhaust is a harder fit. I'm sure i missed a few more but what hacking! </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">First off, i am a DIY'er <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> i did it myself. as a matter of fact.
</font>

• <font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">you can use a stock temp sensor in ANY application.... But why would you want to? So i had to use 5 washers to get the sensor to fit.... oh MY that was extremely difficult ( deffinatley NOT a DIY job ) You should also be using a lower temp sensor if you'd like to keep from cokin' the oil in your precisious turbo buddy.</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">lets see, i have an alternator duct on, look at my pics <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /></font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I have Generic silcon STRAIGHT hoses, no problems there.</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I dont beleive anybody snuck in my house and gournd n/e thing off my intake manifold.... BUT I might* be mistaken (probably not)</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I have STOCK water tubes.... no modifications what so ever.</font></li>
• <font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Then here's the kicker.... the exhaust sides of both turbos have NOTHING to do w/ the compressor housings.... there is NO differnce. Both are mounted w/ kkk centers and kkk hotsides. The to4e refers to the housing of the compressor wheel, that has NO affect on the center section or the hotside.</font></li>

<font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Please tell me what else I had to hack, I"m laughing my *** off. <img border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" title="" src="graemlins/drink.gif" />
BUT, i'm very sorry that you regret your desicion so much that you feel you have to make a donkey out of yourself. <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by jimbo1111:
<strong> A to4b works much better for the DIYS and can flow almost just as much with the right compressor wheel. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Both housing use the SAME comp wheels, the A/r of the housings shift the map's up and down though for each wheel.
B's are just intended for lower boost applications. If you want to flow enough air to make as much as an E you need to run more Boost than an E
and if you were to step up to a comp wheel that would flow more air..... you need to compress more air than a smaller wheel on an E.... Compressing air takes ENERGY....
so you see, B's are STILL there for LOWER BOOST appilcations. They are not as efficient as E's up top. THis is why they are sold as lower lever turbos from tuners, because it is much more difficult to make LARGE power #'s w/ lower boost applications. and less people find them appropriate for their application, so by general "supply demand" laws, they go Cheaper*

there are plently more ways to get a point across that are alot more useful then going around calling people liars and just "beleiving" that you are right... "know" that you are right <img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" />
have a nice day

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/luke/m8.JPG" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/luke/m3.JPG" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/luke/m6.JPG" alt=" - " />

jimbo1111

You change one turbo in your life and now your a turbo engineer right.

Luke

<img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />

Rob

Luke,

Are you certain that you have an "E" housing and not a "B" housing machined out for a 54 "E" wheel? The reason I ask is it seems that all the "B" housings have the pipe plug on the compressor outlet like yours. Check out the following picture posted by David Floyd half way down <a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=18;t=002916;p=2" target="_blank">this</a> post. The "E" housing I have seen are larger radially than the "B" housings and typically require modifying the water pipe and grinding on the throttle bracket screws.

Rob

Luke

both housings use the same wheels. I ordered an E. The housing came ground to fit.

I'll have it out, while i'm cleaning up. i'll look for a # and verify. Couldn't imagine anything larger under the manifold.

An E is A/r- .7

B is .6

Let me look

Luke

i dont see n/e stampings. but it's clear that the pipes wouldn't fit if it weren't ground down. i've been told it should say onthe outlet..... .6 or .7

I dont see n/e thing I gotta get it off to tell.

EDIT

E is .6
B is .5
S is .7

Rob

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Luke:
<strong>both housings use the same wheels. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Not according to the Turbonetics website.

<img src="http://members.rennlist.com/rob/wheels.jpg" alt=" - " />

Luke

the exducer's and inducers are the same

weren't" then there would be no way that mine is a "b" because i'm running a 54 trim.

Rob

Sorry, I guess I shouldn't have just cut out a portion of the site.

Go <a href="http://www.turboneticsinc.com/catalog/comp_wheels.html" target="_blank">here</a> to see the whole page.

For the portion I posted, the 1st column is the compressor wheel inducer size, the 2nd column is the wheel's major diameter, the 3rd is part number. and the 4th is compressor housing inlet size.

From what I have heard, places like majestic will take a "B" housing and machine the inducer size to match an "E" wheel.

Rob

David Floyd

I had a TO4B and it fit like stock, the TO4E I now have needed the throttle body screws filed down and the compressor housing ground down where the TB screws meet, the water pipe needed modifying,tried to heat and bend but I broke it bought another and went to Lowe's bought some brass adapters. No problems with exhaust pipe mounts or alternator duct, so nothing major but it did take some work to get my TO4E to fit.

MachSchnell

I keep hearing Luke scoff at the B, but could anybody give some real world differences between the B and E trims? Seems like everytime someone mentions that the B is close to equivocal to the E with less "fabrication" Luke tries to come over the top on them with a snort and a sneer, but I have yet to figure out through all the "my d*ck is bigger than yours" garbage what the benefits of one would be in comparison with the other...could anyone (David, since you've had the opportunity to experience both) who doesn't feel like this is some equivocal manhood measuring and engineering mastery contest put in a word for what's what in this debate?

MachSchnell

And, for clarification, I did read Luke's post about the better flow rates of the E vs the B, and how the B is intended for lower boost applications, and I'm not trying to stick Luke out for his responses...I'm more curious about the onset of boost (knowing that the E comes on between 3200 and 3400rpms and PULLS extremely! hard to redline) but I'm more curious to see how the B rates to this...also curious about maximum efficient boost capabilities from both camps. I think it's fairly obvious that the E is a superior turbo trim, but as someone who doesnt' always like to get out the dremel, I am curiuos to know how significant this difference is in real world 951 applications, and be able to weigh that against the modifications (at least the modifications that everyone but Luke seems to feel are necessary to make the E trim fit properly)

Was that PC and neutral enough to get a response that doesn't turn into a pissing match about who has installed the most turbos and who knows most about turbo theory?

David Floyd

<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/Mvc-020s.jpg" alt=" - " />

Here is an E,B and stock

the TO4B was on a stock 2.5 ltr, the TO4E is on a not so stock 2.8 ltr so I can't really compare the two

MachSchnell

gotchya, anyone else who has run the two on the 2.5L?

JJ951

which one of these turbos is the sfr stage 2 comparable to? Is the sfr stage 2 easy enough for a DIY?