ali4

Do I get to the connectors from under the car?

jc in rb

No, they'er up top at the back of the head, in a bracket.

ali4

Stupid question but do you have a zoomed out pic of the engine bay showing where to look I saw the pic on clarks but couldn't use it too zoomed in

ali4

I did a lot of reading on clarks garage. I found some other possible issues tha result in my symptoms. One I found is a slipped timing belt. the timing belt on my car was changed recently but prior to all of this i noticed a squealing belt sound from under the hood. Could that belt squeal be related? Could a new timing belt be squealing or slipping? Or am i becoming paranoid?

jc in rb

Sorry i dont have a pic. But its real easy to find.just follow the ref sensor wire from the back of the bellhousing up to the connecters at the back of the cyl.head There are two of them one above the other ,in a metal bracket at the back of the head.Your belt squealing is prob unrelated,as the t belt is a toothed belt and they dont slip and squeal.most comon belt squealing is the power steering belt.

Rock

I think you're just being paranoid. Timing belts dont really squeal before they go... they just go.


There is so much information in this thread that is totally irrelevant unless you know if the car is getting spark or fuel.

Your reference sensors are fine. If they weren't your tach would not be bouncing.

ali4

Ok my mechanic is coming over tonight to check for spark and fuel pressure. I will report back tonight so we can figure this out. i also did a battery voltage test and got about 12.3-33 volts.

schip43

Ok well that's something to work with. That's what I get with everything turned on. So if you turn on everything at least headlights on high,and Ac and your not showing at least 12 volts you have an issue!

Tedro951

You're reading Clarks. Thats a good start.

This has been mentioned, but I'm going to slow it down a little.

Pull the coil wire out of the dist cap. Its the one in the middle of the cap. Hold it approx 1/4 inch from the cam housing or the metal housing the dist bolts on to. Have someone crank the engine, and you watch for a spark to jump from the wire. No tools, no prep. Just spark or no spark.

If no spark, post it on here.

If spark, do the same thing for one of the plug wires, which you'll pull from a plug, not the distributor. You'll need to stick a phillips screwdriver into the wire connector, then hold the screwdriver 1/4 inch from the cam housing. If no spark, the problem is isolated from the screwdriver to the dist cap, but probably is a rotor.

This may not solve your problem, but when an engine wont start and there is gas in the tank, this is the first step I take.

We'll go on if this doesn't shine a light on it.

ali4

Ok mechanic just left.
Checked for spark from ignition wire and got a spark.
Also got spark from distributor. Opened it up checked rotor also and it was fine. Next check for fuel pressure and there was no pressure! Went to fuel pump to see if it was getting power using a multimeter and it was indeed getting power. He then tried to manually jump the fuel pump with a battery charger still nothing.

He concluded that the fuel pump needs to be replaced.

What do you 951 experts think?

ali4

I checked clarks for instructions on changing a fuel pump and it shows the fp under the car. My mechanic took out the trunk carpet and there was a round lid on the passenger side. Is that the fuel pump? He took the connection of there to see if it was getting power. I'm just a little confused ? Maybe some tears had access from the trunk?

ali4

I took some pictures to help clarify. The object in the left and the connector plugged on top of it is where we checked for power. please help I wanna drive it again.

ali4

Pics didnt upload....im over the limit. But hopefully you know what I am talking about ...

lart951

the fuel pump is in the rear under the fuel tank this is how a fuel pump looks like

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsc...Q5fAccessories

Black51

Your fuel pump is under the gas tank, on the exterior. It's tucked up behind a cover that screws to the tank. There are fuel hoses connected to it, so watch for fuel spills. Since the pump hasn't worked for awhile, and the car hasn't been running for awhile, the fuel system shouldn't be pressurized. Wouldn't be fun cracking a hose and 40-50psi of fuel sprays everywhere... HOWEVER, you gotta crimp the line directly attached to the fuel tank before removing the line, lest you want to get a fuel bath with all the fuel left in the tank!

Make sure you unhook the battery before working on anything electrical, whether it's working or not.

GL