Pauly's go quicker project. (Data Logs!)
#512
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yeah i am, Maybe it's the same one? haha. i doubt it though.. for curiosity i'll find out.
Oh does it turn heads!
C'mon 245 45 R16 toyo T1Rs are pretty good! hahah. Yes um ahh then trip the interior, wider guards, even fatter tyres, massive brakes.. wait sounds like someone i know
Well this is (was) his car:
And this is mine
Hint Hint
C'mon 245 45 R16 toyo T1Rs are pretty good! hahah. Yes um ahh then trip the interior, wider guards, even fatter tyres, massive brakes.. wait sounds like someone i know
Well this is (was) his car:
And this is mine
Hint Hint
#513
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Looks like you've been busy Pauly, & the results are looking good. I went back through a few pages of your thread and see that you have recently installed braided lines. Just one tip with those, make sure they are well secured &/or some kind of rubber is between them and any adjacent lines because they act like hack saws if not secured.
Good luck with the tuning.
Good luck with the tuning.
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Looks like you've been busy Pauly, & the results are looking good. I went back through a few pages of your thread and see that you have recently installed braided lines. Just one tip with those, make sure they are well secured &/or some kind of rubber is between them and any adjacent lines because they act like hack saws if not secured.
Good luck with the tuning.
Good luck with the tuning.
Tuning shouldn't be much of an issue, with the M-Tune it'll need to be touched up here and there & that's about it.
#515
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I have a snippet of a some logs.
I took my car after 400 miles for a quick 2nd gear boost run to my engine can understand what it'll be taking after the break-in is finished
The top log is now and the bottom is before rebuild + head and cam.
The top is 2nd gear while the bottom is 3rd gear.
So looks like if there was more load i think there's more power to be had as in if i where to do a 3rd gear pull and with better oil.
Oh and i think the reason for the bottom graph to be all choppy is because the LM-2 was using a cheaper ****tier SD card then now which is a Scan Disk
I took my car after 400 miles for a quick 2nd gear boost run to my engine can understand what it'll be taking after the break-in is finished
The top log is now and the bottom is before rebuild + head and cam.
The top is 2nd gear while the bottom is 3rd gear.
So looks like if there was more load i think there's more power to be had as in if i where to do a 3rd gear pull and with better oil.
Oh and i think the reason for the bottom graph to be all choppy is because the LM-2 was using a cheaper ****tier SD card then now which is a Scan Disk
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Cheers mate, I didn't see the post earlier for some reason.
Not really. I did have issues with my Speed and Reference sensors, I replaced them and the harness. I have a cold start issue where it has a small missfire... I just haven't gotten around to swapping the plugs out. I'll probably get new leads also as i broke one when it i removed it. But it's been re-connected properly.
Also I'm waiting on Josh to update me with a tune to get more out of my setup as i can run more timing then factory with my custom cam.
I've changed the wastegate dump to atmosphere and tied it in. Much better with the sound of the car.
I need to tweek my eBoost2 still. Now it's cold and when i run high boost (17-18psi) on gear shift i spike and over boost kicks in. But i rarely run at that boost. I stick to 12 psi.
That's it really.
Thanks mate! I've been looking for a decent dyno who dont over charge. I think i may have found one, it's about a 30 min drive away.
Not really. I did have issues with my Speed and Reference sensors, I replaced them and the harness. I have a cold start issue where it has a small missfire... I just haven't gotten around to swapping the plugs out. I'll probably get new leads also as i broke one when it i removed it. But it's been re-connected properly.
Also I'm waiting on Josh to update me with a tune to get more out of my setup as i can run more timing then factory with my custom cam.
I've changed the wastegate dump to atmosphere and tied it in. Much better with the sound of the car.
I need to tweek my eBoost2 still. Now it's cold and when i run high boost (17-18psi) on gear shift i spike and over boost kicks in. But i rarely run at that boost. I stick to 12 psi.
That's it really.
Thanks mate! I've been looking for a decent dyno who dont over charge. I think i may have found one, it's about a 30 min drive away.
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No dyno yet. Just never gotten around to going, and dyno prices are high here $100-150 for a 30 min pull. I did pull a airflow curve from the maf.
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Update:
after driving it, and finding some new issues a long the way, I have it back on the hoist.
Issues:
- Oil leak appeared and slowly got worse. (turns out to be a braided oil line)
- Crank bolt keeps backing out (have new one on order)
- Torque tube is playing up.
- and i also thought i broke a clutch, i broke a drive shaft.
I've pulled the motor again, I had plans to rebuild it with new internals but decided not to.
This makes fixing the oil cooler line easier as well as addressing the torque tube easier.
Plans are:
- change drive shafts
- fix torque tube again
- fix oil leak
- re do wire harness
- swap out turbo rear housing from a .82 to a .63 (like i originally planned to get at the start of the thread)
after driving it, and finding some new issues a long the way, I have it back on the hoist.
Issues:
- Oil leak appeared and slowly got worse. (turns out to be a braided oil line)
- Crank bolt keeps backing out (have new one on order)
- Torque tube is playing up.
- and i also thought i broke a clutch, i broke a drive shaft.
I've pulled the motor again, I had plans to rebuild it with new internals but decided not to.
This makes fixing the oil cooler line easier as well as addressing the torque tube easier.
Plans are:
- change drive shafts
- fix torque tube again
- fix oil leak
- re do wire harness
- swap out turbo rear housing from a .82 to a .63 (like i originally planned to get at the start of the thread)