Cracked headers what can I do?
#1
Cracked headers what can I do?
So, after picking up the car and enjoying the amazing power on tap, grinning from ear to ear, I take the car to a Porsche specialist to get it all checked out. Turns out I have a crack in my headers which is causing me a boost leak. I thought to myself well no big headers can't be that expensive and I can't have that much of a boost leak anyway, there's tons of power already! I only have the stock boost gauge to go off from but it tops out around 1.1-1.2 bar at WOT
So my question is, how bad of a leak do I have and can I get it welded? If I do weld it what's the best way to do it? Or would it be better to take the hit and shell out for an aftermarket header?
So my question is, how bad of a leak do I have and can I get it welded? If I do weld it what's the best way to do it? Or would it be better to take the hit and shell out for an aftermarket header?
#3
Yup, look on eBay for a good used pair.
And only 1.1-1.2 bar is where you max out? The 1 bar mark is atmospheric pressure, so you're only building .1-.2 bar of boost, which is like 3psi... it should be making 10-11 psi.
And only 1.1-1.2 bar is where you max out? The 1 bar mark is atmospheric pressure, so you're only building .1-.2 bar of boost, which is like 3psi... it should be making 10-11 psi.
#4
Getting a good set of stock headers from ebay is not so straightforward. The seller will usually not make any guarantee that they are leak-free, and from my experience and what others have said, the majority or original headers are cracked by now. Part of the problem in identifying a good or bad header is the heat shielding which makes it difficult to actually see cracks in some of the places they typically occur. Unless the seller specifically states that they have tested for leaks (tape off one end - fill with water - see if it holds or not is easy enough to do), I would not risk spending much. Then if you do find a set that's not leaking, one could question how much life is left in them given the age and number of heat cycles they've already gone through. These are just the concerns I've had when considering my options to replace my own stock leaky headers. But who knows, you may get lucky and pick up a great deal...
With that said, I think a better way to ensure a reliable leak-free system is to go with an aftermarket solution. OBX replacements sold on ebay are quite inexpensive and I believe are in use by some members already. There is however some question regarding quality of materials (304 vs 321 stainless steel) and design/construction. Perhaps some users can give an update on how the OBX products are performing?
The more expensive option is from a board sponsor, speed force racing. 321ss is an option and design/construction may be improved compared to the OBX.
With that said, I think a better way to ensure a reliable leak-free system is to go with an aftermarket solution. OBX replacements sold on ebay are quite inexpensive and I believe are in use by some members already. There is however some question regarding quality of materials (304 vs 321 stainless steel) and design/construction. Perhaps some users can give an update on how the OBX products are performing?
The more expensive option is from a board sponsor, speed force racing. 321ss is an option and design/construction may be improved compared to the OBX.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Can you take pics of the crack? ANYTHING can be welded, and made stronger. The only difference being the welding procedure depending on where the crack is, and how big it is.
#6
You can cut the heat shields off and have your headers welded up. Then have them coated for a durable finish that also reduces heat transfer to your engine compartment. If you buy a used 951 chances are the headers are cracked.
Here is a pic of mine after the welding repairs and coating!
Here is a pic of mine after the welding repairs and coating!
Last edited by racerxrick; 03-09-2011 at 04:19 PM.
#7
Three Wheelin'
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From: Indianapolis,IN
Yep. I'm betting stock headers are either cracked, or getting ready to.
Choices:
1. Do RacerX plan.
2. Drop $300 on chinese headers.
3. Drop lots more on american headers.
Choices:
1. Do RacerX plan.
2. Drop $300 on chinese headers.
3. Drop lots more on american headers.
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#8
(btw it's great seeing your shiny red avatar Ted!)
#9
Those were my reasons to shy away from the ebay headers, mainly I wasn't sure if the ones I'll be getting don't have cracks and how much life they would have left in them. I've also heard some horror stories with the OBX units, like pieces of metal going through the turbo???
I'm leaning more towards to welding the crack(s) up on the stock headers. RacerX those headers look very nice! How much was it to get them welded and coated?
I have a 1987 951 and I don't recall seeing the bellows on the 4th runner. What are the bellows for?
I would post up pics but my car is 600 miles away and I won't be getting back to it till this May, so I don't know the exact conditions of the headers except by what the specialist shop told me. I plan on swapping the headers out eventually with a proper set, but until then I have other issues I rather focus and spend money on the car
I'm leaning more towards to welding the crack(s) up on the stock headers. RacerX those headers look very nice! How much was it to get them welded and coated?
I have a 1987 951 and I don't recall seeing the bellows on the 4th runner. What are the bellows for?
I would post up pics but my car is 600 miles away and I won't be getting back to it till this May, so I don't know the exact conditions of the headers except by what the specialist shop told me. I plan on swapping the headers out eventually with a proper set, but until then I have other issues I rather focus and spend money on the car
#10
A buddy welded em' up for me and it was only $40 (again buddy deal).
The coating was $80.
I don't have a clue about the bellows?
The coating was $80.
I don't have a clue about the bellows?
Those were my reasons to shy away from the ebay headers, mainly I wasn't sure if the ones I'll be getting don't have cracks and how much life they would have left in them. I've also heard some horror stories with the OBX units, like pieces of metal going through the turbo???
I'm leaning more towards to welding the crack(s) up on the stock headers. RacerX those headers look very nice! How much was it to get them welded and coated?
I have a 1987 951 and I don't recall seeing the bellows on the 4th runner. What are the bellows for?
I would post up pics but my car is 600 miles away and I won't be getting back to it till this May, so I don't know the exact conditions of the headers except by what the specialist shop told me. I plan on swapping the headers out eventually with a proper set, but until then I have other issues I rather focus and spend money on the car
I'm leaning more towards to welding the crack(s) up on the stock headers. RacerX those headers look very nice! How much was it to get them welded and coated?
I have a 1987 951 and I don't recall seeing the bellows on the 4th runner. What are the bellows for?
I would post up pics but my car is 600 miles away and I won't be getting back to it till this May, so I don't know the exact conditions of the headers except by what the specialist shop told me. I plan on swapping the headers out eventually with a proper set, but until then I have other issues I rather focus and spend money on the car
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The bellows are to prevent cracks, they allow the header to expand and contract at a different rate from the block/head. If you get a good used header, make sure you get the bellows version.
#15
Burning Brakes
From my experience welding is a short term solution they rarely last. Even an old header that is not cracked is a better option (IMO) than a weld repaired header. I have some spares. I pressure test mine with air and then check for leaks under water. It will find any and all cracks even the slightest. I guarantee my spares.
I generally junk any cracked headers.
I don't think there can be many 1-4 headers out there without bellows. From my experience its the 2-3's that crack most.
I generally junk any cracked headers.
I don't think there can be many 1-4 headers out there without bellows. From my experience its the 2-3's that crack most.