Sean Hall

Rage,
It should be interesting to see how our respective 2.8's come together and how our different design decisions pan out in performance... Assembly on mine starts this week.

I'll spill the beans on it when I've got it back together.

Sean

951and944S

David your engine has the same type "delete" parts shown in the picture posted by Rage...?

It looks like he's using aluminium inserts from billet, machined to the same spec as the diameter of the original balance shaft bearing surface dimension. I'm also assuming that there's an alignment hole that will locate on what used to be the inner balance shaft bearing dowel (pin) to keep it from moving front to rear. His bearing caps will also be reused as will the bolts.

Am I misunderstanding the problem with oil leaking that you described..?

Terry S.

David Floyd

OK I see, the billet pieces will cover those areas then that will take care of the oil problem.

My engine has no such parts, the oil feed holes were welded, but the cover bolt holes and the dowel pin were untouched and leaked oil like a %#@#! until JB Weld to the rescue. I know not a true fix, but I was not pulling the engine just to have them welded up.

My point was to make sure something was done in those areas to prevent the problems I had.

Cool parts Rage.

951and944S

David

And a worthy warning it was.......

I know that in automatic transmissions that I work on some bolt thread holes intersect while others are blind (have bottom) and if you're not careful you can end up with an oil leak coming through a bolt thread from an entirely different bolt. Good heads up either way.
I've not seen the type parts that Rage has displayed in the photo but it looks like the best solution and completely reversible. As a permanent fix for your problem, you could attach a constant air pressure supply to the oil sending unit hole or anywhere that would add a positive pressure to the oil circuitry of the engine while you tap threads for set screws. This would cause any chips/shavings to be blown out of the block while you work.
Welding, at least for me, only makes the block irreversibly damaged....in the case that you would like to reinstall the BS in the future.....

Take care

Terry S.

Russ Murphy

Rage,
What's shakin'? Got her fired up yet?

rage2

Not yet, been kept busy after getting rear ended for a second time in my SLK 32 . Trying to sort out one car at a time...

dand86951

Rage, where did you find that 94 Octane gas?

BC

He there rage. Great pics. Nice process info on the sleeving. Good idea to grout.

Can you tell us a bit about the decision for your head gasket?

Are you o-ringing with the sleeve for a reason?

rage2

Calgary has a Mohawk with 94 octane now for the same price as 92 octane. The forums that I ran put together a huge petition to get 94 in Calgary, Mohawk responded with 1 station as a trial. According to the Mohawk rep, they'll start to convert all Mohawk/Husky stations in Alberta to carry 94.

O-ring is to keep the headgasket in place. Reduce headgasket issues as long as the tuning is done right. Stock headgasket as well as widefire head gaskets have problems with the coolant passages, it bubbles up the gasket and weakens it. Going with a metal gasket reduces that.

Lots of people use the head gasket as a "safety device", it'll blow before anything else does. Since I've tuned my car properly, I don't need that safety net, and I'm ensuring the gasket doesn't blow under high stress.

BC

Can you explain more abou the grout you used?
Thanks,

951and944S

He he, I've got a few questions myself......

While I can (and have) seen coolant affect the headgasket at the edges around a passage it's unlikely that 17-18 psi (coolant pressure) would infiltrate any further than the edge of a gasket that's clamped at a rate several times the pressure that they'll ever see. Some Honda engines use two and three seperate layer headgaskets without problems.

The "safety device" issue.
The stock or widefire gasket may very well vent compression when it gets burned through usually due to detonation so proper tuning would help there as well.
What if, with a metal head gasket you have a boost spike, a failing fuel pump or any other problem causing a lean condition that you're to busy watching the track/road to see...?
Your connecting rods and block will serve as the safety net then...

Several people have obviously run the metal (copper.?) gaskets successfully at least in race conditions, but has anyone done any long term R&D on the possibility of corrosion or an electrolysis effect between the aluminum block, steel liners and copper gasket...?

Had you researched a cylinder brace before deciding to grout the cylinders, reducing the surface area in which coolant can contact the cylinder itself...?

Just a few questions Rage, looks like you're taking it slow and easy this time in hopes of building a monster engine with longevity....a tough combo to achieve. I'm sure you've addressed each issue very thoroughly.

As a "safety net" why don't you mount a precision pop off valve set to say, 25 psi on the IC pipe leading to the intake.....?

Terry S.

Mike B

Where is the "one"?

BC

This ultimate gasket of which everyone speaks is a sandwich of metal and some sort of rubber or plastic or same.

When Rage mentions finite tuning, I recall that he is speaking of his SDS, and that would probably do him very well with regards to making sure there is no detonation. There are MANY people running way more boost that he had on less octane, so he always has looked to be on the safe side when I have read his posts.

So about that grout rage.

(the 968 has way less coolant volume in the engine block as well with those siamesed towers, and a much higher bottom)

rage2

Not sure of the brand, have to ask there. Basically filled it up half way, like the 968 block. Porsche discovered only the top 1/2 of the cylinder needed cooling, which is why the 968 block had this mod.
It's not the edge of the gasket, the middle portions bubbles up. I'm not sure exactly what would happen if it "blew", because it's just blowing between coolant passages, but better safe than sorry.
I have overboost Fuel cut, so I know right away. As for running extremely lean, there's not enough energy to raise EGT. You'll get big power loss though. It's the mild lean conditions at WOT under boost that's the problem. In those cases, my EGT gauge will point out the problem. If I miss it, by the time the gasket blows, there's permanant damage in the pistons/combustion chambers. Wonder if they make EGT gauges with audible warnings...
I couldn't find a brace. And I did research the grouting. It's been done successfully on many 928 V8 motors. Porsche also made the change in the 968 block, so I'm guessing it's a proven solution. Guess I'll find out when the motor's in the car hehe.
Thinking about that too. Surprised not many people take this route, pop off valves are cheap!

rage2

http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread.p...threadid=17478
When I tell people I only run 12psi on pump gas, they think I'm a wimp . Unfortunately, that's the limit on 92 octane.