pormgb

I don't meat to hijack this thread but information is very interesting. A while back I had a post regarding turbine clipping, I picked up a freshly rebuilt turbo with a bunch of parts and thought it was a stock turbo, its exhaust turbine is clipped. last week I decided to take a closer look at the turbo. The base of the compressor wheel is the same diameter but is higher than a stock wheel, the housing has also been machined to fit the larger wheel. Could this be one of these DR turbos?

TonyG

Which turbo is that (the turbine)?


TonyG

333pg333

Huh?

TonyG

Sorry...

Which turbine is that in the picture?


TonyG

Rogue_Ant

Looks like a #6 to me...

TurboTommy

So Rogue;
did it work?-did you get the high end power together with a quicker spool from the #6 housing?
Best thing would have been to measure the back pressure.

Rogue_Ant

I agree, I wish I would have measured back-pressure...

But I do believe that it was an excellent combo - spool was barely slower then a standard K27/6, but it definitely had more top-end then the standard K27/6. Great street turbo, and if I didn't go higher compression then I would still be running it.

TonyG

Sorry... but I disagree with the "barely slower" comment.

Look at the dyno charts... night-and-day.

Also... who ever cut down that turbine wheel, on the face of it, did not do anything to increase spool. Nor did that cut have anything to do with getting the wheel into a smaller housing. The only thing that cut did was to decrease back pressure, which delayed the spool (the opposite of what the DR option was advertised as doing).

TonyG

Rogue_Ant

Not sure why your so stuck on this... AND your disagreeing with someone who actually has the turbo, taken it apart, ran it for years and datalogged it. Christ, do I need to get something notarized before you accept it?

Do you know which gear I dyno'ed in? Because that significantly changes 'spool', and will shift the dyno curve left/right.
With the DR, I've datalogged 15psia by 3000rpm in 4th at Denver altitude. I would say that is barely slower than any K27/6. Furthermore the DR was never advertised (and I put the exact quote up earlier) to spool quicker then the K27/6 - it was meant to combine the best the K27/6 & K27/8. Which it does quite well.

pormgb

That is the hot side of the actual modified K26, it does have a #6 housing with clipped wheel. I've installed this turbo on 88 turbo motor I'm building, I really wan to use this turbo because it is in such good shape but don't know how it will perform.

I don't know the history of the turbo, I got it from a guy who was building a race car but had engine problems so he dismantled the car, the car had a freshly rebuilt motor.

TonyG

Sorry but some of this just doesn't make sense. That's why I question it. That's why it's called a discussion forum.

With respect to your dyno.... if you post a dyno as an "example" of how a specific turbo would perform, why would you post one in a low gear that would skew the dyno graph severely to the right?

And datalogging boost while driving and holding the car in a high gear or against brake is not the same loading as a dyno, so that too is not really a good comparitive point.

Anyway... my point was that your dyno chart looked nothing like what one would expect to see using that turbo, which is why I initially questioned it.

TonyG

Rogue_Ant

Now your suggesting that I wasn't truthful in my methods of boost vs RPM...? And please show me in this thread where I posted a dyno.

Look, I'm done. I've got nothing to prove here, and certainly nothing to gain from further "discussion" with you. I was simply trying to set the record straight on what a K27DR is (and it makes sense if you actually think about it). I stated the facts, you disagreed with them. You are so determined to be ignorant about it, then no evidence I produce is going to dissuade you.

Dea_944t

Thanks for all the info and discussions, I think it made the turbo question a bit clearer.
I think I'll go for a KKK/Garrett hybrid (or whatever Vitesse will present soon) unless I run into a really cheap K27/6.

I agree that a complete kit from Vitesse, LR och Pauer would probably be the easiest way but I want to try the MAF-kit that is made here in Sweden which means that I will have to pick different things from different vendors.

Still a bit uncertain about camshaft choice, seems that there is very little info available on this.

/Dea

Adonay

What maf kit is that "swedish" Maf kit ? Is it what revline racing sells? Then its just a lindsey racing product sold by them. If not i am most curious.

Dea_944t

No, it's not the Revline kit. It's a kit made by a person named Tomas and it is (as I've understood it) a MAF-system based on true MAF-code without any piggybacks or signal converters.

/Dea