Most power out of a built 951?
#16
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Thanks for the pics, I am a huge fan of connected cylinders.... keeps them from wanting to move around.
When it comes to turbo's or anything fabricated I stay far away from the e-bay specials..... I like Turbonetics and Precision myself.
Since all the Tubo motors were 2.5 to start with a 3.0 block would I just need to get a good 3.0 donor motor???? Or get an 89 or newer car with the better block???
When it comes to turbo's or anything fabricated I stay far away from the e-bay specials..... I like Turbonetics and Precision myself.
Since all the Tubo motors were 2.5 to start with a 3.0 block would I just need to get a good 3.0 donor motor???? Or get an 89 or newer car with the better block???
#17
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Check out the 3 Liter Turbo Registry sticky at the top of this forum. It lists the configurations for all the big motors folks here have built or are building. My motor is pretty cookie-cutter as 3L's go -- 104mm block, 2.7 1989 head, Andial/Mahle turbo pistons (one-over), Vitesse engine management and turbo.
#18
Check out the 3 Liter Turbo Registry sticky at the top of this forum. It lists the configurations for all the big motors folks here have built or are building. My motor is pretty cookie-cutter as 3L's go -- 104mm block, 2.7 1989 head, Andial/Mahle turbo pistons (one-over), Vitesse engine management and turbo.
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Special Tool thread -----> Click Here
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Thanks for the link, I was doing some reading on him, looks like a sick car I will check the link out tomorrow, at work now, headed home.
I don't mind freshing up motors from time to time..... as long as it is not complete rebuilts (IE blown up engines).
I don't mind freshing up motors from time to time..... as long as it is not complete rebuilts (IE blown up engines).
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I did some searches and found some info... my question is this,
If someone wanted to build a 2V 951 and mod everything, ported head, intake, cam, exhaust, tune, turbo, internals, race gas, SOME WHAT steetable ect ect how much power could you make (ball park)?
I have seen a bunch of 500hp cars out there but most are pump gas cars and look like they still have some left in them.
Thanks.
If someone wanted to build a 2V 951 and mod everything, ported head, intake, cam, exhaust, tune, turbo, internals, race gas, SOME WHAT steetable ect ect how much power could you make (ball park)?
I have seen a bunch of 500hp cars out there but most are pump gas cars and look like they still have some left in them.
Thanks.
Not sure where you are seeing 500HP 2V 951s unless you are talking at the crank and even then it is a short list. These are def not big HP cars - you should know that right up front in case you want to go a different route. It takes a lot of cubic $$ just in hardware assuming you are doing the labor to seriously mod these cars and then you still have to get all the suspension parts and brake parts etc up to par. The transmissions start to have issues with higher HP as well. Even the newest 944 turbo is still 20 years old.
Here is a thread with the top HP numbers. I hate to even post this as I feel that these cars were meant to be driven and so what really matters is the combo of weight/power and handling - not just dyno numbers.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-10-hp-tq.html
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First of all welcome to Rennlist! Thanks for searching previous posts - there is a lot of info out there. Probably so much you weren't able to read it all!
Not sure where you are seeing 500HP 2V 951s unless you are talking at the crank and even then it is a short list. These are def not big HP cars - you should know that right up front in case you want to go a different route. It takes a lot of cubic $$ just in hardware assuming you are doing the labor to seriously mod these cars and then you still have to get all the suspension parts and brake parts etc up to par. The transmissions start to have issues with higher HP as well. Even the newest 944 turbo is still 20 years old.
Here is a thread with the top HP numbers. I hate to even post this as I feel that these cars were meant to be driven and so what really matters is the combo of weight/power and handling - not just dyno numbers.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-10-hp-tq.html
Not sure where you are seeing 500HP 2V 951s unless you are talking at the crank and even then it is a short list. These are def not big HP cars - you should know that right up front in case you want to go a different route. It takes a lot of cubic $$ just in hardware assuming you are doing the labor to seriously mod these cars and then you still have to get all the suspension parts and brake parts etc up to par. The transmissions start to have issues with higher HP as well. Even the newest 944 turbo is still 20 years old.
Here is a thread with the top HP numbers. I hate to even post this as I feel that these cars were meant to be driven and so what really matters is the combo of weight/power and handling - not just dyno numbers.
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...-10-hp-tq.html
#24
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Wrench Monkey, Read as much as you can, come up with a plan and set goals for your project. There is lots of information on this (and other boards), but you must filter through it and come up with your own conclusion.
Once you have a clear goal, talk to the various vendors, and pick the one that provides the best solution for your project. Unless you like to tinker and do things on your own, get all the parts you need to work as a system. It will pay off in the long term.
A big part of any project is the installation. You can give the best product to a unqualified installer, and 9 out of 10 times, they will mess it up, then blame the products.
As a example, if your engine was on fire, you must replace ALL the hoses, including the turbo oil feed hose. While at it it's a fantastic idea if you change the oil. If you decide to save some $, picking someone to work on your car because they are inexpensive will cost you more in the long run. Keeping the parts clean and protected from the element goes a long way. So if you install a turbo don't leave it open (unprotected where junk can get inside of it) while the car sits outside for a extended period. Dirt does not mix well with mechanical components. Of course, when it fails and it will, you can always blame it on the product. The above scenario does happen and it did happen!
One thing that helps you in filtering the so many opinions is to do a search on posts made by the by the user in question. It doesn't take long to figure out who is who on the list.
Again, set a goal, research the options, proceed with proper installation and you will be happy with the results. This list is very valuable, many people with good technical knowledge, they will be glad to help you. Of course, you will have to filter through some BS, but it doesn't take long to figure out who has done it successfully vs. who's just posting.
BTW. Once you cross over the 400rwhp or 400rwtq, the 951 becomes difficult to drive and to control. Building a fast track car is different from building a hi HP street car. Building a well mannered car, with good power output becomes more difficult as the HP/TQ numbers go up..
Heat is your enemy, so factor in a way to control oil temps, coolant temps and intake temps. Look at it as a system, it all must work together to yield good results.
Good luck with your project.
Once you have a clear goal, talk to the various vendors, and pick the one that provides the best solution for your project. Unless you like to tinker and do things on your own, get all the parts you need to work as a system. It will pay off in the long term.
A big part of any project is the installation. You can give the best product to a unqualified installer, and 9 out of 10 times, they will mess it up, then blame the products.
As a example, if your engine was on fire, you must replace ALL the hoses, including the turbo oil feed hose. While at it it's a fantastic idea if you change the oil. If you decide to save some $, picking someone to work on your car because they are inexpensive will cost you more in the long run. Keeping the parts clean and protected from the element goes a long way. So if you install a turbo don't leave it open (unprotected where junk can get inside of it) while the car sits outside for a extended period. Dirt does not mix well with mechanical components. Of course, when it fails and it will, you can always blame it on the product. The above scenario does happen and it did happen!
One thing that helps you in filtering the so many opinions is to do a search on posts made by the by the user in question. It doesn't take long to figure out who is who on the list.
Again, set a goal, research the options, proceed with proper installation and you will be happy with the results. This list is very valuable, many people with good technical knowledge, they will be glad to help you. Of course, you will have to filter through some BS, but it doesn't take long to figure out who has done it successfully vs. who's just posting.
BTW. Once you cross over the 400rwhp or 400rwtq, the 951 becomes difficult to drive and to control. Building a fast track car is different from building a hi HP street car. Building a well mannered car, with good power output becomes more difficult as the HP/TQ numbers go up..
Heat is your enemy, so factor in a way to control oil temps, coolant temps and intake temps. Look at it as a system, it all must work together to yield good results.
Good luck with your project.
#25
A big part of any project is the installation. You can give the best product to a unqualified installer, and 9 out of 10 times, they will mess it up, then blame the products.
As a example, if your engine was on fire, you must replace ALL the hoses, including the turbo oil feed hose. While at it it's a fantastic idea if you change the oil. If you decide to save some $, picking someone to work on your car because they are inexpensive will cost you more in the long run. Keeping the parts clean and protected from the element goes a long way. So if you install a turbo don't leave it open (unprotected where junk can get inside of it) while the car sits outside for a extended period. Dirt does not mix well with mechanical components. Of course, when it fails and it will, you can always blame it on the product. The above scenario does happen and it did happen!
.
My friend had your kit installed at Motor Werks Racing in Alpharetta (excellent reputation). I've sent several people there, never a complaint.
He did have the fire damage you mention, but ALL parts were replaced BEFORE installation of the kit, and he nearly got laughed out of the shop when asked if that was a ssautochrome or xspower eBay turbocharger ......no offense or disrespect, but I'm just curious; where are your turbochargers made?
Now I don't know ALL the details on why this happened, there is obviously a good reason..... (seals blew, smoked like crazy, although he never ran more than 14psi)
Anyone else had a similar experience?.....from what I recall (and please correct me if I'm wrong) several people complained about excessive oil consumption with your turbos, and this was a while back.....maybe just the 1st gen turbos?
(nutswingers can fire away at any time, I'm just trying to figure this out. Not my car, not my problem anyway, but still curious about it all)
#26
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John,
My friend had your kit installed at Motor Werks Racing in Alpharetta (excellent reputation). I've sent several people there, never a complaint.
He did have the fire damage you mention, but ALL parts were replaced BEFORE installation of the kit, and he nearly got laughed out of the shop when asked if that was a ssautochrome or xspower eBay turbocharger ......no offense or disrespect, but I'm just curious; where are your turbochargers made?
Now I don't know ALL the details on why this happened, there is obviously a good reason..... (seals blew, smoked like crazy, although he never ran more than 14psi)
Anyone else had a similar experience?.....from what I recall (and please correct me if I'm wrong) several people complained about excessive oil consumption with your turbos, and this was a while back.....maybe just the 1st gen turbos?
(nutswingers can fire away at any time, I'm just trying to figure this out. Not my car, not my problem anyway, but still curious about it all)
My friend had your kit installed at Motor Werks Racing in Alpharetta (excellent reputation). I've sent several people there, never a complaint.
He did have the fire damage you mention, but ALL parts were replaced BEFORE installation of the kit, and he nearly got laughed out of the shop when asked if that was a ssautochrome or xspower eBay turbocharger ......no offense or disrespect, but I'm just curious; where are your turbochargers made?
Now I don't know ALL the details on why this happened, there is obviously a good reason..... (seals blew, smoked like crazy, although he never ran more than 14psi)
Anyone else had a similar experience?.....from what I recall (and please correct me if I'm wrong) several people complained about excessive oil consumption with your turbos, and this was a while back.....maybe just the 1st gen turbos?
(nutswingers can fire away at any time, I'm just trying to figure this out. Not my car, not my problem anyway, but still curious about it all)
Not hatin, just playin...
#27
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+ I would agree that 400whp would be plenty in one of these cars on the road.
I probably have about 300whp (aussie hp) w E85 and break traction with 285/18 Rspec rubber.
I probably have about 300whp (aussie hp) w E85 and break traction with 285/18 Rspec rubber.