Are you sure about the 944 AFM being calibrated to fully open at 150hp? Because the same unit is used in the 89 944, which produced a bit more than that. I would dig more into the Bosch specs for the unit (Bosch part number 0280202064) because you might be able to use it - it may support a higher horsepower than you think.
My point, though, was more general, just that the physics of an AFM setup would work (eg it would still be an accurate system of measuring air coming in to the engine). If you're looking to eventually make big hp, an AFM isn't the most efficient way to measure airflow, so I would suggest looking in to other alternatives (MAF or a MAP sensor) but to just get it running at a low boost setting, I would do more research into the Bosch unit. Another option that you might want to consider would be getting a 951 DME and AFM setup and using that (probably with some sort of custom chip for the DME).

 

8psi IIRC. That was with the stock supercoupe pulley.

Again I would scrap the idea of A/W IC. You won't be wanting to mess with that much IMO. The stock 951 IC is not that hard to fit and what would be even easier is a stock talon IC. Or even get one of the std Honda boy long narrow units.


Personally I would drill the spot welds and install the 951 piece.

 

if you can think of a way to route plumbing to a FM A-A IC im all ears. but i will not cut into my sheetmetal unless i get a phenomenal deal on a 951 front end. theres just no room (short of eliminating the pop-up lights which has come to mind but id rather not). everything i do to this car in terms of mods is designed to be reversible if needed to sell the car (not that i ever want to)...

 

My two cents worth on AFMs and A/W intercoolers. I had my N/A supercharged for about a year then I turbocharged it, I used a stock 951 intercooler with a Paxton SC. One thing to remember is the loss you will experience with an A/A intercooler, if you are running low boost an A/A intercooler may do more bad (pressure drop) than good. If your SC can only produce 8-10 PSI then the intercooler drops 2-3 PSI you don't end up with much, also because of the low boost pressure you intake temperature never gets hot enough to take advantage of an intercooler. Most supercharged motors that run 6-8 PSI don't use intercoolers, if you are worried about intake temperatures use water/alcohol injection. I use an A/W IC on my 65 turbocharged Corvair, there is a ton of plumbing but it has very little boost drop, my motor is also in the rear of the car. With regards to AFM, I ran a 80mm Mustang MAF with a Mafterburner, I still have this setup with my turbo and it runs really well. The Mafterburner will allow you to map your MAF voltages for correct AF, I intally used a Mustang Mafterburner but upgraded to a Lindsey version.

 

Now for something entirely different (Monty Python). Curious but sounds like using the stk NA pistons? Understand the quicker response with higher compression but lower boost allowed at max. So, will limit max increase in HP. Also, if not mistaken aren't the stock pistons also cast instead of the 951 forged? I get the idea of supercharge (no lag, right now boost) but I would think like a perfect setup would be a 951 short block (engineered for forced induction), plus an S2 head ( no ceramic exhaust ports won't matter since after all no heat buildup in exhaust.)
AND pormgb, I'd like to talk some about your 65 Spyder. As a teen in the 60's my parents actually bought me a 62 Spyder for a first car. Early turbo guy. We knew next to nothing about turbos back then. But again, neither did the guys at GM building and selling the things. An adventure.

 

If that is the case then he can throw a smaller pulley on. I installed my intercooler after I had already been running over 15 psi. I didn't really notice a drop. It was nice no longer having to worry about the methanol injection. One thing to remember about the roots blower is that they put out a lot of heat. At 12 psi I was seeing close to 300 degree AIT.

I like the setup using the mafterburner, that sounds great.

 

that is the best setup or the early forged pistons, but for lower boost the stock pistons should do just fine if AIT is kept in check. I ran some cast pistons all the way to over 25 psi and they lasted for awhile before breaking a ring land.

 

if i could afford a 951 shortblock i would do that and would have no headaches over detonation for 10psi lol.

sid - so you think 8psi is about the stock pulley? if so then i am happy



the good thing is that i just found a place somewhat local that sells 100 octane at the pump (at $8 a gallon though ) so that is nice but i still want to tune for 91 octane. when the time comes i will start the motor the first time with like 95 octane total and check my boost levels and stuff and then tune stuff down from there....

 

anyway this thread has gotten a little off track. what i need to know is if you guys (all of you reading this lol) think that this setup ive described (forgot to mention, pulling timing as much as the dme will let me, about 3*) will tend to detonate under boost (assume average temperature here is 90*F).

other ideas and experience are appreciated but the simple answer is what i look forward to the most.

 

I think you should start with a 951 intercooler and run low boost. See how well things are, and then make changes (water inj, management, etc.). I really would look into the Ostrich emulator spencer, i think it has a lot of potential for our cars. Sure would make MAF conversions wayy better. On my project im really regretting doing everything at once. I wish i did things in pieces. I have a lot on my plate with megasquirt build, rebuilding and installing a turbo, trying to mount a 951 intercooler in an early car (wayy harder then i would have ever imagined). I wish i got the megasquirt squared away and then added the turbo. But whatever, im almost done and this thing should be a whole lotta fun!

 

Yes, you are going to nuke something, but I'm going to have a great time reading about it!

 

im looking into the maxtune/ostrich combo like JoKA uses, it certainly looks promising. if i get that youll be getting lots of PMs from me since you seem to be the fuel map programming guru
thanks for the confidence. lol. just for you ill take videos when it all comes together to document any glorious explosions and/or holes in the block

 

I don't get it, you can't afford a 951 shortblock but you are considering a custom air to water to air intercooler system?

 

for $280? versus a 951 shortblock ($500+) that id have to rebuild ($1000+)?

 

$280 for what? just the air to water...what about the water to air part? the piping, the pumps? Sensors or are you going to run it wide open all the time?

If you are clever enough to desginadn fabricate an air to water to air system then you should be ableot buy a decent used shortblock and refresh it for way under $1k, closer to $500 if you do it yourself...