data search - cost to get 500rwhp
02-20-2009, 01:48 PM
#31
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What kind of boost would you need to run on our imaginary 3.0 ltr. in order to make 500 hp?
02-20-2009, 03:08 PM
#32
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No seriously first things first. Forget full race. That's a whole different thing and you could spend 4-5 times your budget on that. What you want is a nice car that you can DE in and some AX. If you want to be able to dd it then you can forget a cage too.
Why 500whp? Is it just the latest 'it' number. Have you driven a 951 with 350whp or even 400whp? These sort of power levels are going to be a lot easier and cheaper to attain and you will have a very quick car make no mistake.
If you really want more than that in a car that is safe, you will increase your spending markedly.
See if you can get a ride in a decently modded 951 and go from there.
02-20-2009, 03:11 PM
#33
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500 for one glory run or 500 to last the test of time? That is the big question. You can make 500WHP failry easily with a bolt-on turbo running some insane amount of boost but it wont last. Or you can do it the right way and address each system, fuel, intake, exhaust, engine, EMS, etc.... and make 500WHP that you can use as a daily driver and take to the autocross or road race every now and again.To make 500WHP on a dedicated track car will require even more money.......
02-20-2009, 03:17 PM
#34
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Good point
I think way too many people get caught up in the numbers.
The combination is what really counts.
Having that much HP on tap at all times gets to be a little dangerous. I don't know how much HP I have made at the higher boost levels but I do know that it was getting to be too much for a DD.
Hence scaling back slightly. It is amazing what you can get used to and how quickly it can get out of hand.
A 350 - 400HP 951 DD is plenty IMO.
I think way too many people get caught up in the numbers.
The combination is what really counts.
Having that much HP on tap at all times gets to be a little dangerous. I don't know how much HP I have made at the higher boost levels but I do know that it was getting to be too much for a DD.
Hence scaling back slightly. It is amazing what you can get used to and how quickly it can get out of hand.
A 350 - 400HP 951 DD is plenty IMO.
02-20-2009, 03:32 PM
#35
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I'd have to agree. Money go's in these cars quickly. You could easily spend 15-20k cause I did it and I was just playing around. I have a feeling alot of these builds cost quite a bit more than they let on sometimes. If your starting car is perfect in everyway you would be able to cut down on the costs some but, honestly with the car ripped apart and you trying to put all that power down consider another 5 grand going to fix/upgrade suspension componets.
So i'd say
15k-motor/turbo/ecu
5k- suspension,tires
1-2k-LSD(if you don't already have one you'll need it)
I don't see how a real life 500+rwhp car could be track driven or daily driven or anything less than 20-22 grand. If you do ALL the work yourself you can knock 5k off the price.
So i'd say
15k-motor/turbo/ecu
5k- suspension,tires
1-2k-LSD(if you don't already have one you'll need it)
I don't see how a real life 500+rwhp car could be track driven or daily driven or anything less than 20-22 grand. If you do ALL the work yourself you can knock 5k off the price.
is this a good block to start with? or should it be aluminum?
02-20-2009, 03:34 PM
#36
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For a fun weekend car, a 1JZ swap could put down 500whp fairly reliably and (I would argue) for quite a bit less $$$ than the lsx. PM me if you want more info, it's more straightforward than you might think! However a 2JZ (as I am learning) is a bit more difficult ...where is the .gif of the smiley banging its head on the wall when you need it?
I don't suggest this route if you plan to spend any serious time on a track.
I don't suggest this route if you plan to spend any serious time on a track.
02-20-2009, 03:34 PM
#37
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500 for one glory run or 500 to last the test of time? That is the big question. You can make 500WHP failry easily with a bolt-on turbo running some insane amount of boost but it wont last. Or you can do it the right way and address each system, fuel, intake, exhaust, engine, EMS, etc.... and make 500WHP that you can use as a daily driver and take to the autocross or road race every now and again.To make 500WHP on a dedicated track car will require even more money.......
02-20-2009, 03:35 PM
#39
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Good point
I think way too many people get caught up in the numbers.
The combination is what really counts.
Having that much HP on tap at all times gets to be a little dangerous. I don't know how much HP I have made at the higher boost levels but I do know that it was getting to be too much for a DD.
Hence scaling back slightly. It is amazing what you can get used to and how quickly it can get out of hand.
A 350 - 400HP 951 DD is plenty IMO.
I think way too many people get caught up in the numbers.
The combination is what really counts.
Having that much HP on tap at all times gets to be a little dangerous. I don't know how much HP I have made at the higher boost levels but I do know that it was getting to be too much for a DD.
Hence scaling back slightly. It is amazing what you can get used to and how quickly it can get out of hand.
A 350 - 400HP 951 DD is plenty IMO.
02-20-2009, 03:36 PM
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For a fun weekend car, a 1JZ swap could put down 500whp fairly reliably and (I would argue) for quite a bit less $$$ than the lsx. PM me if you want more info, it's more straightforward than you might think! However a 2JZ (as I am learning) is a bit more difficult ...where is the .gif of the smiley banging its head on the wall when you need it?
I don't suggest this route if you plan to spend any serious time on a track.
I don't suggest this route if you plan to spend any serious time on a track.
02-20-2009, 03:41 PM
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02-20-2009, 04:17 PM
#42
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Yeah 500whp is alot in our cars. Its very much attainable with the right amount of boost. The thing with our cars from what ive gathered, isnt so much the engines putting out that much power, but more with the driveline, and transaxle holding up. In which case it wont matter what engine is putting out power. As far as Ive always been told, a 3.0 can be built to reliably push 500whp on relatively low boost, for street use. Especially a 16v. Weve seen what, 420+ish at the wheels on 1 bar or so, on an 8v? Doesnt take a whole lot more to bump it up, but worthless if you trash your gear box. The real plus to a 3.0 engine IMO, is pushing 350-400whp, on pump gas, with much less boost than a 2.5, which ultimately means longer engine life, in theory. That and the extra pre boost power the extra displacement gives. Keep in mind, Im a guy thinking 100% street.
02-20-2009, 04:20 PM
#43
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Yeah 500whp is alot in our cars. Its very much attainable with the right amount of boost. The thing with our cars from what ive gathered, isnt so much the engines putting out that much power, but more with the driveline, and transaxle holding up. In which case it wont matter what engine is putting out power. As far as Ive always been told, a 3.0 can be built to reliably push 500whp on relatively low boost, for street use. Especially a 16v. Weve seen what, 420+ish at the wheels on 1 bar or so, on an 8v? Doesnt take a whole lot more to bump it up, but worthless if you trash your gear box. The real plus to a 3.0 engine IMO, is pushing 350-400whp, on pump gas, with much less boost than a 2.5, which ultimately means longer engine life, in theory. That and the extra pre boost power the extra displacement gives. Keep in mind, Im a guy thinking 100% street.
02-20-2009, 04:23 PM
#44
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02-20-2009, 06:03 PM
#45
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Yeah, it definitely gits err dun. If I didnt need a whole new engine, I wouldve just kept the 2.5. To me 2.5=easy low-mid 300's@wheels, 3.0=easy low possibly mid 400's@wheels. As far as the transaxle, at low 400's, from what ive gathered, and soon to be finding out, should be somewhat teetering the edge, but ok if all is fresh, and used/maintained properly. Im still trying to find a ultimate solution to a readily launchable TA. It is true tho, the beauty of the 951 isnt in drag racing it.