data search - cost to get 500rwhp
#16
i'd do all the work i can for a LSx or 3.0, except machining things. i'd also try to located used parts when possible either way...
#17
def not a car that can jut run once on a dyno it should be able to drive daily but also should be able to do a ax or a full race.
#21
Monkeys Removed by Request
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
So i'd say
15k-motor/turbo/ecu
5k- suspension,tires
1-2k-LSD(if you don't already have one you'll need it)
I don't see how a real life 500+rwhp car could be track driven or daily driven for anything less than 20-22 grand. If you do ALL the work yourself you can knock 5k off the price.
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Hmmm….so a ‘full race’ 500rwhp project. If you really mean that then set aside a minimum of $50k for either build. Some of us take ‘full race’ and 500 hp pretty seriously!
#25
Rennlist Member
It really depends on what parts you already have, and how much work you can do yourself. If your starting from scratch, and doing your own assembly....plan on over 10k. When I say scratch I mean everything. If all you have is a bone stock 951 to work from, your list of parts will look pretty close to this.(depending on how you build) I did mine trying to mimic factory configurartion, as close as possible, minus aftermarket bolt on performance upgrades. Keep in mind this is JUST the engine/engine mgmnt.
s2/968/2.7block $2kish
2.7 head picked mine up for $375
968/s2 crank $12-1500
pistons/rods under $2k
bigger turbo/ecu/MAF(If I didnt already have these, I wouldve gotten the vitesse stage 3 or 4 kit)~$4k last I checked. Could probably find it used around here tho.
All together thats $9,875. And thats just parts. Add to that a rebuild kit(about another 1k or so I think), and your machine shop bill, and a few other things im sure Im missing. It really helps to have a parts car with all the upgrade goodies on it already, it helped me significantly. You can also sell your 2.5 parts to offset the cost. If you can find some of the bolt on goodies used, that will save a ton too. Under 10k, and you do your own work is plausible.....if you poke around for parts.
s2/968/2.7block $2kish
2.7 head picked mine up for $375
968/s2 crank $12-1500
pistons/rods under $2k
bigger turbo/ecu/MAF(If I didnt already have these, I wouldve gotten the vitesse stage 3 or 4 kit)~$4k last I checked. Could probably find it used around here tho.
All together thats $9,875. And thats just parts. Add to that a rebuild kit(about another 1k or so I think), and your machine shop bill, and a few other things im sure Im missing. It really helps to have a parts car with all the upgrade goodies on it already, it helped me significantly. You can also sell your 2.5 parts to offset the cost. If you can find some of the bolt on goodies used, that will save a ton too. Under 10k, and you do your own work is plausible.....if you poke around for parts.
#26
Part of the IN Crowd
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Simpsonville, SC
Posts: 4,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It really depends on what parts you already have, and how much work you can do yourself. If your starting from scratch, and doing your own assembly....plan on over 10k. When I say scratch I mean everything. If all you have is a bone stock 951 to work from, your list of parts will look pretty close to this.(depending on how you build) I did mine trying to mimic factory configurartion, as close as possible, minus aftermarket bolt on performance upgrades. Keep in mind this is JUST the engine/engine mgmnt.
s2/968/2.7block $2kish
2.7 head picked mine up for $375
968/s2 crank $12-1500
pistons/rods under $2k
bigger turbo/ecu/MAF(If I didnt already have these, I wouldve gotten the vitesse stage 3 or 4 kit)~$4k last I checked. Could probably find it used around here tho.
All together thats $9,875. And thats just parts. Add to that a rebuild kit(about another 1k or so I think), and your machine shop bill, and a few other things im sure Im missing. It really helps to have a parts car with all the upgrade goodies on it already, it helped me significantly. You can also sell your 2.5 parts to offset the cost. If you can find some of the bolt on goodies used, that will save a ton too. Under 10k, and you do your own work is plausible.....if you poke around for parts.
s2/968/2.7block $2kish
2.7 head picked mine up for $375
968/s2 crank $12-1500
pistons/rods under $2k
bigger turbo/ecu/MAF(If I didnt already have these, I wouldve gotten the vitesse stage 3 or 4 kit)~$4k last I checked. Could probably find it used around here tho.
All together thats $9,875. And thats just parts. Add to that a rebuild kit(about another 1k or so I think), and your machine shop bill, and a few other things im sure Im missing. It really helps to have a parts car with all the upgrade goodies on it already, it helped me significantly. You can also sell your 2.5 parts to offset the cost. If you can find some of the bolt on goodies used, that will save a ton too. Under 10k, and you do your own work is plausible.....if you poke around for parts.
#27
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
My initial point is that the question was way too open ended to get a usable answer. People will start tossing out numbers based on their own idea of what the poster wanted.
So my version of a 500hp ‘real race’ engine needs the following –
The usual crank/piston/block work (sleeved MID, quality rods and pistons) - $6-8k
Head work (real head work, not just making die grinder marks!) - $3-4k
Core 3.0 engine - $2-3k
Dry sump system (installed and tuned) - $5-7k
Custom intake / exhaust - $4-5K (add another $8k if you want the slick carbon fiber/barrel valve set up that is back in production)
Clutch package - $2-3k
Engine management - $5k
Turbo - $2.5k
Other crap - $2k
Bolt it together - $2k
Install it in car - $2k
Development and tuning time - $5k (includes track testing – because that’s the only way you will get it set up right)
You will need to add to that your own cooling upgrades (water and oil) and whatever else you need to keep the drive train alive.
If you go with the V8 version take some of the turbo money and put it into fabrication and development of the engine fitment. The ‘cheap’ street jobs will not last on the track….at all.
#28
Rennlist Member
Yeah, unless your car already has them. Id say vac lines more than anything, what nother couple hundred there. I live in the desert, and have seen these cars with 20+ years on the same harness. This is just engine build stuff yes. This is where it really comes down to what parts you already have. Youll probably want to or need to do alot more once you start sorting everything, its starts with oh Ill rebuild the engine, next thing you know, your doing suspension, paint, ps rack, carpet, etc, etc. Of course this will be the case regardless, of whether you go with a GM mutt, or a pure bred steed.
#29
Rennlist Member
Ummm....1 hour, but I will work really hard for that 1 hour @ $50k per hour.
My initial point is that the question was way too open ended to get a usable answer. People will start tossing out numbers based on their own idea of what the poster wanted.
So my version of a 500hp ‘real race’ engine needs the following –
The usual crank/piston/block work (sleeved MID, quality rods and pistons) - $6-8k
Head work (real head work, not just making die grinder marks!) - $3-4k
Core 3.0 engine - $2-3k
Dry sump system (installed and tuned) - $5-7k
Custom intake / exhaust - $4-5K (add another $8k if you want the slick carbon fiber/barrel valve set up that is back in production)
Clutch package - $2-3k
Engine management - $5k
Turbo - $2.5k
Other crap - $2k
Bolt it together - $2k
Install it in car - $2k
Development and tuning time - $5k (includes track testing – because that’s the only way you will get it set up right)
You will need to add to that your own cooling upgrades (water and oil) and whatever else you need to keep the drive train alive.
If you go with the V8 version take some of the turbo money and put it into fabrication and development of the engine fitment. The ‘cheap’ street jobs will not last on the track….at all.
My initial point is that the question was way too open ended to get a usable answer. People will start tossing out numbers based on their own idea of what the poster wanted.
So my version of a 500hp ‘real race’ engine needs the following –
The usual crank/piston/block work (sleeved MID, quality rods and pistons) - $6-8k
Head work (real head work, not just making die grinder marks!) - $3-4k
Core 3.0 engine - $2-3k
Dry sump system (installed and tuned) - $5-7k
Custom intake / exhaust - $4-5K (add another $8k if you want the slick carbon fiber/barrel valve set up that is back in production)
Clutch package - $2-3k
Engine management - $5k
Turbo - $2.5k
Other crap - $2k
Bolt it together - $2k
Install it in car - $2k
Development and tuning time - $5k (includes track testing – because that’s the only way you will get it set up right)
You will need to add to that your own cooling upgrades (water and oil) and whatever else you need to keep the drive train alive.
If you go with the V8 version take some of the turbo money and put it into fabrication and development of the engine fitment. The ‘cheap’ street jobs will not last on the track….at all.
#30
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Ummm....1 hour, but I will work really hard for that 1 hour @ $50k per hour.
My initial point is that the question was way too open ended to get a usable answer. People will start tossing out numbers based on their own idea of what the poster wanted.
So my version of a 500hp ‘real race’ engine needs the following –
The usual crank/piston/block work (sleeved MID, quality rods and pistons) - $6-8k
Head work (real head work, not just making die grinder marks!) - $3-4k
Core 3.0 engine - $2-3k
Dry sump system (installed and tuned) - $5-7k
Custom intake / exhaust - $4-5K (add another $8k if you want the slick carbon fiber/barrel valve set up that is back in production)
Clutch package - $2-3k
Engine management - $5k
Turbo - $2.5k
Other crap - $2k
Bolt it together - $2k
Install it in car - $2k
Development and tuning time - $5k (includes track testing – because that’s the only way you will get it set up right)
You will need to add to that your own cooling upgrades (water and oil) and whatever else you need to keep the drive train alive.
If you go with the V8 version take some of the turbo money and put it into fabrication and development of the engine fitment. The ‘cheap’ street jobs will not last on the track….at all.
My initial point is that the question was way too open ended to get a usable answer. People will start tossing out numbers based on their own idea of what the poster wanted.
So my version of a 500hp ‘real race’ engine needs the following –
The usual crank/piston/block work (sleeved MID, quality rods and pistons) - $6-8k
Head work (real head work, not just making die grinder marks!) - $3-4k
Core 3.0 engine - $2-3k
Dry sump system (installed and tuned) - $5-7k
Custom intake / exhaust - $4-5K (add another $8k if you want the slick carbon fiber/barrel valve set up that is back in production)
Clutch package - $2-3k
Engine management - $5k
Turbo - $2.5k
Other crap - $2k
Bolt it together - $2k
Install it in car - $2k
Development and tuning time - $5k (includes track testing – because that’s the only way you will get it set up right)
You will need to add to that your own cooling upgrades (water and oil) and whatever else you need to keep the drive train alive.
If you go with the V8 version take some of the turbo money and put it into fabrication and development of the engine fitment. The ‘cheap’ street jobs will not last on the track….at all.