3 Liter Turbo Registry
#453
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#454
#456
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Oh joy, I just realized I can update this list. I have an '89 2.8 951 headed my way once the transporters (Intercity) have a route for it. I have information and records on the car already and pictures, but will update with that when the car shows up at my doorstep.
#457
Addict
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That looked like a really nice car - congrats on the purchase!
#458
Three Wheelin'
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Updates on my 3 liter 11 to 1 compression 8 valve NA motor are that the head is almost finished with 7mm stem huge 2" intake valves and 1.8" exhaust valves installed into 2.7 head with minor port work & unshrouding of valves. The 2.7 intake manifold was matched perfectly and as the wossner 104.5mm pistons were much lighter than the factory 2.7, S2 and 968 units so I used factory late 968 rods that were balanced with all internals that attach to crank as they are very light and strong. Heres the list of all parts that go on crank!
4lbs lighter 951 flywheel, SPEC satge II turbo PP, cup clutch, flywheel & PP bolts
Rubber S harmonic balancer, Jeffs billet crank timing gear, oil pump driver gear, keyway and large bolt and washers
SO now that I have made 8 trips in 6 months to the machine shop to drop off what feels like the entire car in pieces its almost time to reap rewards.
FR Wilk has programmed me a chip to run this 3 liter high compression 8 valve engine with '88 28 pin DME and wiring from 924 S as its going in early sunroof delete. Along with calibration for running 30% larger turbo barn door AFM! The block has been cnc machined to next to final step so its awaiting matching to finish hone size! The list of factory parts you need to make this all work goes on and on and takes months of thinking alone, Im getting escited as its close to being able to pick up everything and start assembly! The idea that Im spending 7K on parts and machining for a motor that will still not make as much power as a drop in crate 968 that you can buy for $2K now is frightening but it will look like a factory 2.5 when popping the hood but rev crazy fast with the camshaft and make around 200HP
4lbs lighter 951 flywheel, SPEC satge II turbo PP, cup clutch, flywheel & PP bolts
Rubber S harmonic balancer, Jeffs billet crank timing gear, oil pump driver gear, keyway and large bolt and washers
SO now that I have made 8 trips in 6 months to the machine shop to drop off what feels like the entire car in pieces its almost time to reap rewards.
FR Wilk has programmed me a chip to run this 3 liter high compression 8 valve engine with '88 28 pin DME and wiring from 924 S as its going in early sunroof delete. Along with calibration for running 30% larger turbo barn door AFM! The block has been cnc machined to next to final step so its awaiting matching to finish hone size! The list of factory parts you need to make this all work goes on and on and takes months of thinking alone, Im getting escited as its close to being able to pick up everything and start assembly! The idea that Im spending 7K on parts and machining for a motor that will still not make as much power as a drop in crate 968 that you can buy for $2K now is frightening but it will look like a factory 2.5 when popping the hood but rev crazy fast with the camshaft and make around 200HP
#460
Three Wheelin'
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Hey Duke,
Actually I was looking at maybe installing a freshened 968 complete engine with S2 flywheel and clutch parts to fit on 944 TT with NA transaxle. Then I realized I would spend at least 4 months and 4 - 5K to accomplish this, so when it came down too it this is my best option for my needs. I get a much lighter and quicker revving engine that is hassle free and makes plenty of power for my lightweight sunroof delete european '83 thats in my signature. I sacrifice 40 hp but its much more reliable for long term hassle free sake, and I love the idea of a sleeper stock looking motor!
Actually I was looking at maybe installing a freshened 968 complete engine with S2 flywheel and clutch parts to fit on 944 TT with NA transaxle. Then I realized I would spend at least 4 months and 4 - 5K to accomplish this, so when it came down too it this is my best option for my needs. I get a much lighter and quicker revving engine that is hassle free and makes plenty of power for my lightweight sunroof delete european '83 thats in my signature. I sacrifice 40 hp but its much more reliable for long term hassle free sake, and I love the idea of a sleeper stock looking motor!
#461
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I'm going to be really happy with it and have been going crazy waiting for it to arrive so I can drive it again. Of course I'm impressed by the motor and all, but I really dig the interior because it's just sooo fresh and new and the paint is shiny! It's like the first aesthetically perfect 951 I've owned and a big plus is that I won't even have to modify the car because it's pretty much maxxed out, thinking about stand-alone EMS with maybe a tune for e-85 and that's about it.
#462
Nordschleife Master
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Hey Duke,
Actually I was looking at maybe installing a freshened 968 complete engine with S2 flywheel and clutch parts to fit on 944 TT with NA transaxle. Then I realized I would spend at least 4 months and 4 - 5K to accomplish this, so when it came down too it this is my best option for my needs. I get a much lighter and quicker revving engine that is hassle free and makes plenty of power for my lightweight sunroof delete european '83 thats in my signature. I sacrifice 40 hp but its much more reliable for long term hassle free sake, and I love the idea of a sleeper stock looking motor!
Actually I was looking at maybe installing a freshened 968 complete engine with S2 flywheel and clutch parts to fit on 944 TT with NA transaxle. Then I realized I would spend at least 4 months and 4 - 5K to accomplish this, so when it came down too it this is my best option for my needs. I get a much lighter and quicker revving engine that is hassle free and makes plenty of power for my lightweight sunroof delete european '83 thats in my signature. I sacrifice 40 hp but its much more reliable for long term hassle free sake, and I love the idea of a sleeper stock looking motor!
#463
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Anyone have any experience with the GTX3076 for the 3 Liter. I was going with the GT3582r but am now looking to the GTX as to get better response and still hit the 500 rwhp mark, hope to do it at boost levels less than 20 psi. Compressor maps... are one thing but if anyone has experience then let me know.
#464
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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May I ask what machine shop you use? I'm still struggling to find one I can rely on consistently... Thanks.
Updates on my 3 liter 11 to 1 compression 8 valve NA motor are that the head is almost finished with 7mm stem huge 2" intake valves and 1.8" exhaust valves installed into 2.7 head with minor port work & unshrouding of valves. The 2.7 intake manifold was matched perfectly and as the wossner 104.5mm pistons were much lighter than the factory 2.7, S2 and 968 units so I used factory late 968 rods that were balanced with all internals that attach to crank as they are very light and strong. Heres the list of all parts that go on crank!
4lbs lighter 951 flywheel, SPEC satge II turbo PP, cup clutch, flywheel & PP bolts
Rubber S harmonic balancer, Jeffs billet crank timing gear, oil pump driver gear, keyway and large bolt and washers
SO now that I have made 8 trips in 6 months to the machine shop to drop off what feels like the entire car in pieces its almost time to reap rewards.
FR Wilk has programmed me a chip to run this 3 liter high compression 8 valve engine with '88 28 pin DME and wiring from 924 S as its going in early sunroof delete. Along with calibration for running 30% larger turbo barn door AFM! The block has been cnc machined to next to final step so its awaiting matching to finish hone size! The list of factory parts you need to make this all work goes on and on and takes months of thinking alone, Im getting escited as its close to being able to pick up everything and start assembly! The idea that Im spending 7K on parts and machining for a motor that will still not make as much power as a drop in crate 968 that you can buy for $2K now is frightening but it will look like a factory 2.5 when popping the hood but rev crazy fast with the camshaft and make around 200HP
4lbs lighter 951 flywheel, SPEC satge II turbo PP, cup clutch, flywheel & PP bolts
Rubber S harmonic balancer, Jeffs billet crank timing gear, oil pump driver gear, keyway and large bolt and washers
SO now that I have made 8 trips in 6 months to the machine shop to drop off what feels like the entire car in pieces its almost time to reap rewards.
FR Wilk has programmed me a chip to run this 3 liter high compression 8 valve engine with '88 28 pin DME and wiring from 924 S as its going in early sunroof delete. Along with calibration for running 30% larger turbo barn door AFM! The block has been cnc machined to next to final step so its awaiting matching to finish hone size! The list of factory parts you need to make this all work goes on and on and takes months of thinking alone, Im getting escited as its close to being able to pick up everything and start assembly! The idea that Im spending 7K on parts and machining for a motor that will still not make as much power as a drop in crate 968 that you can buy for $2K now is frightening but it will look like a factory 2.5 when popping the hood but rev crazy fast with the camshaft and make around 200HP
#465
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Are you 3.0L+ guys running the factory PCV valve on your engines?
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...pcv-valve.html
When I built my engine I used an as-new tube from an '86 with the short rubber elbow (no valve), and I got blue smoke coming out of the exhaust when the engine was idling for lengthy periods (slow traffic, etc), until I opened up the hole at the top of the AOS.
It is my understanding that the 968 TS/TRS also use the PCV valve above-mentioned, as a 3.0 engine will necessarily build more crankcase pressure than a 2.5 when idling... What do you think?
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...pcv-valve.html
When I built my engine I used an as-new tube from an '86 with the short rubber elbow (no valve), and I got blue smoke coming out of the exhaust when the engine was idling for lengthy periods (slow traffic, etc), until I opened up the hole at the top of the AOS.
It is my understanding that the 968 TS/TRS also use the PCV valve above-mentioned, as a 3.0 engine will necessarily build more crankcase pressure than a 2.5 when idling... What do you think?