rshanholtz

I have an 86' 951 with a rebuilt 89' 951 LSD/oil cooler Tranny. I spun a bearing about a month ago on the track. I am having an 89' 951 engine rebuilt currently. I plan to baffle oil pan, new crank (lightened, polished, knife-edged and cross-drilled), pauter race rods, balance, and add chip kit. I figured while the eng is out, makes sense to replace stock clutch. Car has 46k and is extremely clean. I may also add suspension from ground control and new control arms.

I have searched past posts for clutch suggestions but see all kind of conflicting information. I do not see this car going over 300hp. I will drive the car to work occaisonally so I do not want a brick for clutch pedal feel. I am currently looking at either stock, Spec (not sure what stage) and possibly Cup.

Anyhelp is as usual most appreciated.

Tms951

I have used many Spec clutchs on many cars. They were all great, on many different aplications I have used the stage 2. It has great mdulation and never hesitates to hook up. This is what I have in my car now and would sugest the same. I have the aluminum flywheel as well.

Mighty Shilling

I've got a spec stage II. it's a good one!

rshanholtz

Thanks Tms951. Do you drive yours on the street and if so, do you have any stalling issues due to alum flywheel?

gcb951

Okay, looks like the same post I put up. Either way I have to ask the same question, any stalling issue with the aluminum fly wheel.

rshanholtz

Sorry gcb951. I saw your post but I thought you were looking for advice for a 951 in the 300-340 range which is a BIG leap from my 275-300hp range. I am debating between alum flywheel verses lighted steel flywheel. The main issue I have read about is the tempermental behavior of stalling as the entire system is not balanced properly. I will shut up now and wait for the experts to weigh in.

Ski

for that hp/torque range, you can easily do a Cup Car PP, 930 disk and lighten the factory flywheel, even some track duty. Steel last a lot longer than the replacement material in the aluminum flywheels. If you decide on Spec, then look at the triangular steel Spec flywheel that LR has. KEP also has some nice pressure plates.

Opinions differ; I'd cross drill the crank, polish the journals, do the oil pan and pick up tube work but I'd save my money on knife/lighten $$ and spend it in a better way, just my .02

Tms951

I do drive it on the street and there is no stalling problem at all, I also have lighter engine internals. Where i live there are some very steet hills with stop signs on them I also have no trouble at all getting going up these hills with this clutch. It has given me no problem on the track either, both road race and drag strip. They also seems to last a long time. There is also no chatter that some people complain about with aluminun flywheels and after market clutchs.

gcb951

So, you would think that the aluminum flywheel is a bad idea? Clutch on mine will be mostly street and not a daily driver. Lets say less then 5k a year on the car. Not to say I won't whomp on it. I do want durability so if the aluminum is a bad idea, please let me know. And yes, I am gonna do what SKI suggested while it's apart.

special tool

Ridgefield huh?
I live in Bethel and I have an aluminum flywheel and light PP and no idle stabilizer (and a few other mods) and the car idles well on the street.
Come check it out, if you want.

Keithr726

I'm in the same boat.

Thinking about a new clutch for a car that gets 3-4k a year that might get some heavy mods down the road. The car will be a weekend driver with occasional track use.

theedge

Personally, go with a KEP Stage 1. Try to drive other peoples cars with different clutches though. Personally I think Specs are garbage, because they feel like ****. Specs and Centerforces, yuck. Theyre like having a lump of hot butter under your left foot.

Olli Snellman

+1

DDP

A buddy of mine had a Spec clutch, chattered like all hell. No thanks.

333pg333

What about something from these guys?
http://www.clutchnet.com/home.php