LFA951

I bought the turbo K26/8 last September, I believe it was rebuilt, used with no play, I checked it yesterday and althought some of the blades are dark from heat, it still has no play...

reno808

but the seals might be shout.

LFA951

How can you tell? I see no oil around the turbo or downpipe, however I did find a little in the intake throttle body and in the intake pipe to the intercooler.

reno808

their should only be a film of oil in the intake pipe and throttle body.

Perry 951

Castrol 20/50 with a jug of Lucas. Had the motor open several times, no deposits and no signs of wear. I might do a 50K mile rod bearing change next summer just to be sure.

LFA951

It is only a film, about two finger tips worth on the rubber boot connecting the intake pipe with the IC, no oil in pipe itself, nothing major or dripping...

ehall

If you are putting oil in every other day...the leak is anything BUT minimal. lol

LFA951

I was exagerating...

Ski

VR1 20/50. After 3.5 years of track duty (double duty with 2 drivers), engine was spotless, oil pan had no deposits in it anywhere - of course we have a broken rod on #4 but a metallurgist thinks we had a hairline crack. All the rod bearings are in great shape; even #4, mains are like new. Even after all the carnage, the rod on #4 was free, as was the wrist pin. So yeah, for $3/quart, I'll take VR1.

If you have your engine apart for any reason, get your rods crack checked, either by professionals or use dye penetrant yourself.

LFA951

I was in between Castrol and Valvoline, now I guess I think I'll have to go with Valvoline VR1 20W50, since M758 and Ski, who are both racers recommend it, not to mention OriginalStern, unless there is someone who doesn't agree and thinks Castrol is irrefutably better, at least for street use...

Ski

No expert. Mobil 1 was filling out catch can after a full rebuild, 19" vac warm after rings seated, 148-150 compression and less than 2% leakdown, 1/2 full in one day of DE. Someone recommended VR1, we swithced, problem went away after the second oil change. We usually go two events and then change it, sometimes after each event with the cheap cost, or if the car has sat over the summer, change it before the first event in the fall.
I was getting a puff of blue smoke in between shifts a couple of years ago. Full refresh on the engine 5 years ago. Anyway, switched the street car to VR1, again, second oil change, puff was no more no matter what rpm. I like it but oil is a very subjective subject and in the end it's all of our own money and what we think after we read or see something. Good luck with your decision.

Rod with discolorizaton as the crack worked its way around:

LFA951

Thanks for the advice, and as for those two pictures, OUCH!

chris951

I will not use Mobil 1 after what it did to my oil seals. My car had valvoline in it when I bought it and I switched to mobil 1 15w-50, my car never leaked a drop when I bought it. After using mobil 1 for 6 months everything was leaking. The engine was clean, but synthetic is too thin of viscosity for an older 951. After replacing the oil pan gasket twice, the rear main, I switched to castrol 20w-50 and it stopped the mess on the garage floor... other than the balance shafts and front seal leaking. My oil is always hard to read on the dipstip after an oil change, because it is soo clean with castrol.

LFA951

Gees, what to do, it's 3 against 3 so far...

xsboost90

CASTROL!!!!