gcb951

That is awesome torque for a 4 cylinder.

nize

i think this also proves where most of the power gains is coming from with a MAF setup. it's not from the MAF per-se, it's from opening up the restriction.

kevincnc

As a beginner these results are interesting for me, especially because I am trying to get good power with a "stealth" setup. With that in mind I have some observations, which may or may not be correct, and some questions. These are based on the assumption that the chart shows a run with the stock intake setup vs. a cone filter.
1) The AFR with AFM in place looks good to me based on my limited experience. The AFR of around 13 on boost seems dangerously lean from everything I’ve read, are you driving it like that or was that just the dyno run?
2) You said there was no knock? Do you mean that you couldn’t hear any or you got no counts on pin 15 at all with the cone filter? I have a counter hooked up now and still see a couple of counts per gear at WOT with good AFR at 15 PSI, although I can’t hear any.
3) If there was no knock, was timing very retarded to prevent knock? If so, wouldn’t it be better to richen it up and advance the timing to get the same power?
4) Your chart is uncorrected, so would the corrected SAE chart, which is what everyone usually posts be closer to 300 WHP and TQ? That’s what I’m shooting for with a 27/6 stealth MAF. For the benefit of those who look at dyno numbers to help decide on mods, wouldn’t it be better to post them corrected?
5) It looks like boost was around 15PSI on the chart. Is that what your boost gauge was reading during the run, and did it fluctuate like the chart shows?
6) I understand that dyno charts in general have a tolerance but assuming you did yours at the same shop, it shows a good increase in power from the stock filter to cone filter. However with the difference in AFR is so large, is that a fair comparison?
7) You said the airflow difference is really noticeable, what are you basing that on? The rushing air sound difference under the hood or something else?
8) Also you said “intake air temp logs also show that there's much less temp variations without the stock afm/snorkle, so it's definitely getting colder (denser) air with the restriction removed.” Can you explain further the temp variations, and why the air would be colder/denser coming in from the engine compartment instead of the fender?
9) I think you said you were getting full boost below 3000 RPM, but the chart looks like it was 3300, what am I misunderstanding?

Sorry for all the rookie questions, this is all pretty interesting to me and I’m trying to learn so any input is appreciated.

nize

1) 13afr was just for the dyno run.
2) i have independent knock detection and protection via the j&s safeguard. it was never activated so i know there was no knock. i would like to keep this as a turbo-mod-only discussion and not into an EMS discussion so i've left out the description of my EMS setup that allows me to do this. you can continue the ems discussions in these threads;
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/233816-wolf-3d-ems.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/332231-standalone-ems.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/361175-got-the-car-back-with-wolf-ems.html
3) i am currently in the process of richening it up and advancing timing. i expect another 20whp gain with further tuning.
4) yes, and no.
5) 17psi, rock steady with no fluctuations and no dropoff to redline.
6) yes, and no. re-read my post where i mentioned this specifically, and also mentioned my intention of doing another comparison with the afr changed to compensate for the denser air introduced by the free intake. however, i'm not willing to pay for another dyno session specifically just to test this, as i'm already convinced the stock afm/snorkle is bad for performance. if you (or anybody else) would like to pay for my dyno session to test this, let me know.
7) this is a good question. i'm basing this on how i had to adjust the wastegate to keep the boost level the same. i actually had to open the wastegate even further towards redline because the turbo was over-boosting with the stock afm/snorkle removed. this made it very obvious there was much better flow.
8) the temperature fluctuation with the stock afm/snorkle was within 25degrees celsius, and 20degrees without. it was obvious that with the snorkle, the turbo had to;
a) spool at a higher rpm to maintain the same psi and as a result
b) was pushing hotter air through, resulting in less power
regarding the air from the engine compartment, there is a high powered fan at the dyno shop, so the air flow is consistent while on the dyno. i am actually going to make my own 'snorkle' that will allow me to put a cone filter into the fender hole to draw cold air on the street/track.
9) the boost reading on the dyno is not as accurate as the boost reading on the VDO gauge and the EMS in the car. the nice color boost screenshot i posted is from the EMS which reports more accurate numbers. go read that a few posts up.

Geneqco

I'll take some photos (probably tomorrow). The mandrel bends are available in 3" as well. what size is your turbo inlet?

I'm going to use LR MAF Trap to shut off any air from the engine bay and to draw air from the stovk location - I haven't set that part up yet.

nize

thanks geneqco, my turbo has a 3" inlet. ideally i'd like 3" pipe all the way through.

the lindsey maf trap still doesn't keep rain water out that enters through the headlight area.

Geneqco

I sent you an email Nize.

nize

got it. thanks.

A.Wayne

Nize are you able to get a dyno sheet in MPH instead of rpm, the dyno graph shows alot of boost oscillation and it matches your power curve , since the dyno lost the tach signal on that run the graph is not necessarily accurate , it would be more accurate if done by MPH, if it has the same oscillations in MPH, then you either have a boost leak or boost oscillation via valve control , as it is the dyno sheet is showing over 20 psi +/- 3 psi. This was difficult to confirm on your datalog , the dyno sheet will confirm the logs and the one posted did confirm the dyno one to be accurate , at least in it's shape of oscillation. Convert the graph to MPH and repost ..

nize

i don't have a boost leak as the vacuum line has recently pressure/vacuum tested. here's the mph graph.

special tool

Nize - I am going to say that you DO have a boost leak, partner.

Jeremy Himsel

LOL, the car picked up 35 ft/lbs and 1 HP by switching from an RPM to a MPH chart. Gotta love uncorrected charts.

porschefig

I don't see boost above 20 psi on any of the charts?
But I do see the AFR around 13:1 on boost?

A.Wayne

The T/Q is not accurate when you lose the tach signal on a dyno jet the WHP is pretty close to what you will get with a tach signal , forget the T/Q numbers.


Nize,
The power curve is very uneven with a lot of oscillations at the end , the boost is fairly stable so i would have to say you have a boost leak, there are other factors that would cause such an uneven running engine , for example, a blown head gasket , it look's more obviously to be a boost leak , unless you forgot to mention the extra water required after the pull

Geneqco

Just a thought Nize, I realise this was primarily a turbo replacement for you, so I'm wondering if you're still running the stock fuel pump. My understanding from the PWM is that this pump flows around 100 litres p/h in spec at 2.5Bar. Assuming you are running 3.0Bar + your boost pressure, it's probably only giving you around 80 litres per hour.

I'm just wondering if the oscillation you are experiencing could be due to you running out of fuel pump capacity?