Tms951

Please post pics of the remaining good rod bearing and how many hours/miles you think you have on them.

I am interested if the rod bearing were do for a change, or if you pulling so many Gs the pic up was starved.

For these two things I would also be interested in oil type and tire type/size. Also do you have any mods or baffles done tot he pan?

I am tring to judge wheather or not I need a dry sump for the track as start putting stickiertires on the car.

Ski

read back for pan mods, oil type
Toyo RA 1, 255/40/17F and 275/40/17R

mein51

I feel your pain! I'm about 90% sure I did the same at the NASA event at TWS two Saturdays ago. Mine happened coming out of whatever turn T10 in normal direction is, but reverse (read as hard left hander). Did you see a sudden rise in water temp when it happened?

Ski

Water jacket is intact, expansion tank is at the "cool" level, and the car was 190 when it happened, oil temp was around the 240-250 mark and it was the third hot lap of my last session - when I was in the grass and I knew flames were not going to approach my A$$, I turned the ignition back on just to read those. We were running 17psi, which is where the car is tuned for almost perfect A/F ratios.

hosrom_951

A lot of cars on the track such as evo's, bmw's and 928's also suffer from rod bearings during high revs and hard cornering.

With oil level full and the baffle kit, i would have expected it not to happen anytime soon.

But then again, as you said Bret, on track cars, the rod bearings should be replaced more often, among other things, since they take a hell of a beating during one track session than on a street car.

Ski

Looks like #3 or #4 let go and not #2 from the looks of it, as you can see the end of a rod sticking out and the girdle is broken. See how it cracked the pan - telling you, felt like the car was hit with a two ton weight!

schwank

Ski, if you are still looking I have both the right rear lights from my parts car for cheap to a lister. LMK if you are still on the hunt.

Van

Ski, I'd almost guess that a rod stud broke, letting the cap fly off, and then getting the sh*t pounded out of it by the rotating crank!

Of course, that's quite a guess for looking a one little pic... Let us know what you find. Out of curriousity, any details from the last rebuild? Esp. in regards to the condition of the rods (new or used)? I assume you used new rod nuts. Did you do a standard torque, or measure by stud elongation with a dial indicator?

I'm asking 'cause I don't want that to happen to my motor!

Matt Sheppard

wow, dumped oil right on the x-over pipe.

Ski

yeah Matt, it was a LARGE orange glow out the back when it went!

Rods were the same 87 in the motor, new nuts of course, 100.5 Tom C pistons, new bores with .0015" clearance(.038 mm), we did it ourselves. We're disappointed it happened but you have to remember, this thing is 3.5 years old, lives between 4k and 6300 on the track, most of the time, double duty each weekend but not always and was pushing 351/347 respectively.

It did give a warning, with a vibration in a session, I actually came in early to look things over but hard to pull the pan between run groups

TRP951

id say you got your moneys worth out of that motor even though its a shame its destructed

Ski

absolutely! It was flawless, I mean flawless from the time of the build until this past weekend.

jwl

Yeah...we're talking about dumping two gallons of 200+ deg. oil on the firecraker hot the x-over pipe...KAAWOOOF. Only about a cup full of oil and shrapnel came out when we pulled the plug.

theedge

How much was the pan? You can PM me if you want.

Ski

Jim, in looking at that pic further, that might be the side of the girdle sticking out there, seems like a pc of the girdle is missing.