Will you need brake balancer or something like that regulate how much force is going to the rear and or front. You do want to be braking and for the whole rear to lock up out of no where do to too much pressure

 

Run 13" wide wheels in the rear...then let me see you lock up the rears

That's why I love runing huge gumballs, they allow you so much more control and power to use what you already have. I'm just sticking with the big reds

Evil: yeah i'm running ligher hubs & wheels (well close enough) I'm trying to get her on the most extensive diet ever.

 

[QUOTE=evil 944t]Thanks for pointing that out Dave. And I what I meant, as I was typing that long book late last night, was that him having GT-3 wont "exponentially" affect him as much compared to a street car.

Just curious Dave, have you personally ever raced with ceramics on race cars, if so, what series? I ask because I know you have a vast amount of technical knowledge, a hell of a lot more than me. That said, I have to assume you have raced a ton and/or that you still race often, which would really compliment that technical knowledge base you. Which by the way I am envious of.



-Patrick, I told ya!!



-Olli, good points my friend. And good luck with the 3.0L and the bling affect if you want that too!!



-Reno. Good point. Guns know what he has to do. We talk about it for him. He will benefit from having a brake bias 55/3 valve.

 

Not positive? I guess informing people on what "unsprung" weight really is was'nt helping anyone.

You don't have to race anything to understand that. In fact there are many people that know more about ceramic brakes than you, me or anyone else put together. They are probably the people who invented them?? Do you think they were developed by a driver? Maybe, but I doubt it. I would have to research that. But thanks for questioning my inteligance and backround.

Your post was good Rob, but to a person thats learning out about this for the first time, would have been mis-informed.

Hence why I wrote," Don't take this the wrong way." Thanks

 

I asked, didnt attack you. Wanted to know your racing background, thats all my ear friend, sorry.

Peace.




EDIT: Look at my post # 20 I think? Go and reads those posts from an "unbiased" man, who owns and races a GT2, is a Moderator here, and has used ceramics. His name is Bob, and he is from Canada. He has a vast amount of knowledge of using a system like this too. If anyone needs to, contact him and ask him his thoughts on PCCB, especially for our cars. He is a very nice, helpful, and knowledgable person. Definately a huge asset to the Rennlist community.

 

Guns, You may benifit to an adjustable Tilton valve rather than sticking with a fixed valve. Then you can dial in as much rear brake you want/need.

Everyone has a different driving style or habits (good or bad). Some people have a need for large rotor/calipers and some don't.

Rob, why don't you start a different "backround" thread on the "OT forum" instead of going OT in someones else thread. I would be happy to answer anything you want. But if you need to know here, I have no "pro" level racing backround.

 

With GT2 fronts and GT3 rears the orginal bias valve with original master cylinder seems to work just fine, so no need to change these.

 

I think Guns would be best to listen to his builder, no offense Dave. While your opinion is valued, Chris is who he is paying. And I did mention those threads, enough said on who has what credentials. Thanks for the suggestion, but I thought it was relevant here. I didnt know you were a MOD and I had to go to anothet thread, wow? Sorry to offend you pal.

And you don't have "pro" level experience? Thanks for sharing that. Have a nice day.



EDIT: Olli, thanks for the input, it helps Guns to be more educated. Ok, back to the program, mostly because the Mod Dave said I should leave. Your wish is my comment Dave. Hav a good one pal, and as I said before, good luck with that web site. Why don't you tell people about it? They may be interested in your offerings? Food for thought....

 

Roger, the bias valve is a must, I was just referring to my experiences with running huge wheels in the rear of the car (fronts too). On my old N/A I almost got in a few accidents as the brakes would lock the stock wheels up almost immediatly (the brakes had just been redone), once I got a hold of some 930 wheels (15x9 front 15x11 rear) I couldn't lock them up ever but the ability to stop was phenomenal.

I'm going with a 4 wheel big red kit, I know I don't need it for the rears but I love the looks so a porportioning valve is def. a must.

And trust me, I'm going to need the big reds for stopping from my 'goal' speeds...

 

Do youself one favor, trust your builder more than anyone else.

Peace out!!!

 

"...and in the beginning there was Chris....he sleeved the block and saw that it was good...."

 

No one ever stated that PCCB was nessacary. In fact if you read back you will see where everyone posted that it was a waste of money and no need for it. We were stating what large steel brake setups were available. The whole idea is that for the cost of a BBK, it wouldn't take much more to go to the ultimate setups. 993TT big red kits are available decently cheap now, but the technology is way out dated. At first we were stating that 996TT big reds would be a nice upgrade. I am in the process of measuring the mounting differences to see if it would be possible to use the 993TT 12.5" rotors that are already available to bolt to 951's and bolt 996TT big reds up fairly easily. After that we stated that GT3 brakes might be of interest, as they use relatively the same space as big reds, offer better braking, cooler looks, and more options. Not everyone here NEEDS GT3 or even big red brakes, but for those with the need or wallets for the bling, its a nice modification. It won't hurt the value of the car, and it adds to the uniqueness. Again...no one ever said PCCB was of any value. Its highly debated whether its worth the $8k premium on new GT3's, but for the ones spending $120k on their new GT3's, they are willing to get the PCCB's.

By the way, unsprung weight is all the weight that the suspension does NOT hold up. Lightening the car up does nothing for this and has no effect. Lightening a car does have an effect on braking/cornering/accellerating, but has little to no effect on unsprung weight. Also to clarify more of the falisies posted, everyone that posted or asked on this thread about brakes has stock cars, many close or over 3000lbs. We are looking for brakes to stop our cars well, not a 2400lb GT3 club racer.

I am sure you will have some overthought, extra planned, unoriginal post to rebuttle this, but I really have no interest in hearing it so please leave it out. Respond with facts only please !

Wes

 

Prob off topic in this thread, but:

Does anyone else make big brake kits (bolt-on) for a 1986 besides VCI, LR and SFR? thanks...

 

Chris sells Big Reds, his site is under construction so it does show up yet.

I need to bring this up, the stock brakes are not bad at all. With proper pads (Hawk blue or PF front and metal masters back) they will bring a car down from 150 to 40 in a very predictable and fast manner. The issue I am running into is brake and rotor wear. I am going though two sets of pads front, one in the back, and one set of rotors a year.
Costs:
Front and rear rotor at $90 = $360
Pads at front: 2* $120 front, 1*$30 rear =$270
Total = $630 per year on just brakes
Going to a Big Reds setup should reduce this consumable. I also don’t want to go to a brake setup that requires $300 each for the rotors on top of the pad cost.

 

Yes I plan on just sitting back and letting Chris do his thing. The one thing he did point out is that the big red setup isn't terribly expensive to replace when you need new rotors and the performance is more than we actually need so it obviously does quite nicely. As we all know the race is won in the corners.