Oil
09-12-2005, 05:32 PM
#61
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
Some oils are made for 2-stroke engines , some are made for 4-stroke engines, and then there are some oils compatiable for both 2 and 4 stroke engines.
09-12-2005, 05:35 PM
#62
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Originally Posted by lart951
For some reason beyond my current level of education, I believe that syntethic tends leak more. I don't know if it's due to the age of some of the gaskets or the viscosity it self. But what do I know.
I am not really sure why either. It maybe that it is thinner when cold and thus will leak through a hole dino oil will not.
I can't say for sure, but my experiences is that on an old engine changing to synthetic will resulting in you finding a bunch of oil leaks. There were there before and the new oil does a nice job of finding them. That is why my 951 runs DINO oil. It already has a few leaks I don't need to be making it worse.
09-12-2005, 05:38 PM
#63
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Originally Posted by M758
I am not really sure why either. It maybe that it is thinner when cold and thus will leak through a hole dino oil will not.
I can't say for sure, but my experiences is that on an old engine changing to synthetic will resulting in you finding a bunch of oil leaks. There were therefore and the new oil does a nice job of finding them. That is why my 951 runs DINO oil. It already has a few leaks I don't need to be making it worse.
I can't say for sure, but my experiences is that on an old engine changing to synthetic will resulting in you finding a bunch of oil leaks. There were therefore and the new oil does a nice job of finding them. That is why my 951 runs DINO oil. It already has a few leaks I don't need to be making it worse.
09-12-2005, 05:41 PM
#64
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My car had dino oil in it when I bought it several years ago. No leaks. Switched to Mobile one right away. Within a month all seals were leaking. After that reseal, no leaks for almost 5 years now.
I think if the seals are old and marginal, the synthetic will find a way out.
I think if the seals are old and marginal, the synthetic will find a way out.
09-12-2005, 05:41 PM
#65
Race Director
Originally Posted by 951Obsession
You mean you cant just put some super glue around the engine seals/gaskets? news to me! better yet, dump it in with the oil, it'll work, i swear.
I can appreciate your attempt at sarcasm. That's good stuff there!
09-12-2005, 05:44 PM
#66
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I agree with Joe and a guy told me the non racing dino oils provide (in their breakdown) certian deposits that get into seals and sort of seal off. Be it a bit of sludge, a bit of detergent, whatever - this is regenerated through each cycle. The viscosity of synthetic, with their properties, their additives, eat up this barrier/seal from the dino oil, resulting in the seals starting to leak a bit. Racing oils tend to have less detergents in them and more viscosity elements in them. This person does chemicals for BP, EXXON, and BASF - who don't make your products, we make them brighter and better.
09-12-2005, 05:47 PM
#67
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Originally Posted by tifosiman
I can appreciate your attempt at sarcasm. That's good stuff there!
09-12-2005, 05:56 PM
#68
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Originally Posted by M758
.
I can't say for sure, but my experiences is that on an old engine changing to synthetic will resulting in you finding a bunch of oil leaks.
I can't say for sure, but my experiences is that on an old engine changing to synthetic will resulting in you finding a bunch of oil leaks.
I was told that if an engine sees dino oil (which is non synthetic?) for a long time (80,000miles or so). Switching to synthetic beyond that point would actually cause damage to the engine.
True/false.....who knows
09-12-2005, 05:59 PM
#69
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Originally Posted by Ski
back to oil. I'll revise this Monday of next week and report back about the DE at Memphis (with pics I hope) about the catch can.
If the Valvoline works well for you, I may switch
09-12-2005, 06:36 PM
#70
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If you look at mobil one, it does not meet a lot of standards a high performance engine (one being TRACKED!) should see. You will also see a stamp that says something like imporves efficientcy! Mobil is great oil for your daily driver, helps with gas milleage and wear on the motor, but in high heat performance applications, mobil now tends to thin out (sometimes a lot) and BURN! It does not meet ratings that german castrol does (its called ace-3 or something like that) There have been tests, and aside from redline and motul oils (each costing about 10 bucks a quart) german castrol is the best. My sources are from the Honda board and some of my own research. The Honda Challenge drivers are far more knowledgable then 99% of the people even here on rennlist, and they know their stuff. (I post this for you guys going, oh great honDUH drivers!) I can get some statistics to post later on!
~Eyal
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09-12-2005, 07:01 PM
#71
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Originally Posted by Eyal 951
If you look at mobil one, it does not meet a lot of standards a high performance engine (one being TRACKED!) should see. You will also see a stamp that says something like imporves efficientcy! Mobil is great oil for your daily driver, helps with gas milleage and wear on the motor, but in high heat performance applications, mobil now tends to thin out (sometimes a lot) and BURN! It does not meet ratings that german castrol does (its called ace-3 or something like that) There have been tests, and aside from redline and motul oils (each costing about 10 bucks a quart) german castrol is the best. My sources are from the Honda board and some of my own research. The Honda Challenge drivers are far more knowledgable then 99% of the people even here on rennlist, and they know their stuff. (I post this for you guys going, oh great honDUH drivers!) I can get some statistics to post later on!
~Eyal
~Eyal
09-12-2005, 07:10 PM
#72
Race Car
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1719541
Here is a thread I found comparing some of the oils listed in this thread. Actual numbers and data sheets with them to support. Not just "I heard this was better"...
Useful or not, I don't know.
Here is a thread I found comparing some of the oils listed in this thread. Actual numbers and data sheets with them to support. Not just "I heard this was better"...
Useful or not, I don't know.
09-12-2005, 10:53 PM
#73
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sorry, mobil 1 15w50 still is acea-A3, but i think all the others, or most aren't. The other mobils are not performance oild, the 15w50 IS performance oriented, so it is better in terms of thinninhg out and burning, but I beleive the german castrol syntech is better, btw to those wondering, test show that the green (2004 and prior german syntech) and gold (2005+) syntech is the same if not better. Some people have been worried that castrol ruined it like Mobil, lol.
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09-13-2005, 04:26 AM
#74
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09-13-2005, 06:27 AM
#75
Burning Brakes
My 2c worth
I believe that if you switch to a quality synthetic after using a cheap oil for some years then the detergents in the quality oil will clear out the 'gunge' left by the cheap oil possibly causing the seals to leak. I used mobil 1 15/50 for 3 years or so and was very happy with it. I have now switched to Silkolene ProR 15/50 as it is supposed to be an even better synthetic and it is slightly cheaper than mobil 1. Before swapping I used the latest mobil 1 tri-synthetic and I actually found that stayed in the car better than earlier versions but the pressure did drop to 3.5 bar on hot tickover whereas before it stayed around 4bar.
Tony
I believe that if you switch to a quality synthetic after using a cheap oil for some years then the detergents in the quality oil will clear out the 'gunge' left by the cheap oil possibly causing the seals to leak. I used mobil 1 15/50 for 3 years or so and was very happy with it. I have now switched to Silkolene ProR 15/50 as it is supposed to be an even better synthetic and it is slightly cheaper than mobil 1. Before swapping I used the latest mobil 1 tri-synthetic and I actually found that stayed in the car better than earlier versions but the pressure did drop to 3.5 bar on hot tickover whereas before it stayed around 4bar.
Tony