Clutch Project - New Problem
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Clutch Project - New Problem
One after another...nothing seems "easy" on this job. Trying to get the "sleeve" off the driveshaft at the transaxle bell housing...got one of the 8mm bolts out, now it says to tun the shaft to access the other one, and it won't turn. In gear, out of gear, holding in the clutch, etc...the clutch pedal seems to not have any pressure either!
Any suggestions on how to get that shaft to turn, or get the pressure back in the pedal to do so, etc would be greatly appreciated!!
Any suggestions on how to get that shaft to turn, or get the pressure back in the pedal to do so, etc would be greatly appreciated!!
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
OK...now can we be a little more specific...I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to these cars...mechanically inclined, but a newbie nonetheless...
Where is that nut, and how do I access, etc?
Thanks!!!!!
Where is that nut, and how do I access, etc?
Thanks!!!!!
#5
Or you can remove the slave cylinder if you already haven't and take a small piece of angled steel and drill three holes, 1 in the center and two where the slave cylinder mounts. In the center hole,thread a long bolt through with a stopnut. Mount the apparatus to the bell housing to simulate the slave cylinder piston pushing on the fork when you tighten it down and it will release the pressure plate from the clutch plate. If you can tack the stopnut to the steel it works great,otherwise you may have to try and grab it with pliers or a wrench to keep it from turning when you turn the bolt.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Well the slave is still in place. I don't know if something else is broken or what...like I said, the clutch pedal seems to not have any pressure on it.
As far as the crank shaft nut...anyone got any pics? The car is on jackstands, so is this easily accessable from the front underneath the car? Just put on a 24mm socket and it'll turn the shaft around?
As far as the crank shaft nut...anyone got any pics? The car is on jackstands, so is this easily accessable from the front underneath the car? Just put on a 24mm socket and it'll turn the shaft around?
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#8
Or, if you can access the starter ring gear (perhaps by removing the starter) you can use a screwdriver to rotate the crankshaft a couple of teeth at a time until the other bolt head becomes accessible. It helps if you have another pair of eyes to watch at the coupler in the back to let you know when to stop.
gb
gb
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Not sure what sort of bolts you will find on the pressure plate to flywheel, more than likely the old cheeseheads, so be careful with them. Do you have an impact wrench? Make sure your cheesehead tip/socket is in good condition, because you don't want to drill any out. After you get them out I recommend changing to allen heads, much easier to torque and to deal with in the future.
Are you going to do the rear seal too...it's right there. If you do, a couple of small blocks of 2x4 will help to raise the torque tube a bit and put the input shaft a bit higher - which will make tapping on the seal a bit easier. You just push up on the torque tube and slide the blocks in the brackets under it.
Are you going to do the rear seal too...it's right there. If you do, a couple of small blocks of 2x4 will help to raise the torque tube a bit and put the input shaft a bit higher - which will make tapping on the seal a bit easier. You just push up on the torque tube and slide the blocks in the brackets under it.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks Bret...yep I'm doing a full job on this thing...the "big" stuff hasn't been too bad, it's all these "little" setback that are making this a PITA!