XP: Cyl damage, need input/advice
04-04-2005, 02:46 AM
#1
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XP: Cyl damage, need input/advice
Got my engine taken apart yesterday, no big surprises till I got down to the cyls. This has me fairly worried. I can feel them with my fingernail, but they dont really catch that I can feel...?
The compression test that I had done as part of the PPI about 16k miles ago had them all around 140PSI, all within a few PSI of each other. Didnt do a leakdown (hindsight being 20/20 and all that....)
This is the #1 cyl
And the #3 cyl
The compression test that I had done as part of the PPI about 16k miles ago had them all around 140PSI, all within a few PSI of each other. Didnt do a leakdown (hindsight being 20/20 and all that....)
This is the #1 cyl
And the #3 cyl
04-04-2005, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboX
O My....
Then I thought "Hmmmmm I wonder what a 2.8 liter with Chris White sleeves costs"
04-04-2005, 10:13 AM
#4
Yikes!
Don't worry, it happens. Same deal for me and that's why I'm doing a 3.0 conversion. Good luck with your project and don't get discouraged. Figure it this way. How often do you see a 944 Turbo? Well, you got one and even if it's a little messed up now you can still make it kick *** later.
Don't worry, it happens. Same deal for me and that's why I'm doing a 3.0 conversion. Good luck with your project and don't get discouraged. Figure it this way. How often do you see a 944 Turbo? Well, you got one and even if it's a little messed up now you can still make it kick *** later.
04-04-2005, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by gcb951
Yikes!
Don't worry, it happens. Same deal for me and that's why I'm doing a 3.0 conversion. Good luck with your project and don't get discouraged. Figure it this way. How often do you see a 944 Turbo? Well, you got one and even if it's a little messed up now you can still make it kick *** later.
Don't worry, it happens. Same deal for me and that's why I'm doing a 3.0 conversion. Good luck with your project and don't get discouraged. Figure it this way. How often do you see a 944 Turbo? Well, you got one and even if it's a little messed up now you can still make it kick *** later.
04-04-2005, 01:47 PM
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Looks familiar---I am in the same boat-and here is an option I have been thinking about.
The damage is not all that bad--and I really don't want to spend the cash on the displacement change. You can have the nicisil redone back to the original spec for about $750 at US Chrome(920-922-5066)---and there very well could be some place cheaper--I am just now researching it.
The damage is not all that bad--and I really don't want to spend the cash on the displacement change. You can have the nicisil redone back to the original spec for about $750 at US Chrome(920-922-5066)---and there very well could be some place cheaper--I am just now researching it.
04-04-2005, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by theedge
Then I thought "Hmmmmm I wonder what a 2.8 liter with Chris White sleeves costs"
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04-04-2005, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cjb3
Looks familiar---I am in the same boat-and here is an option I have been thinking about.
The damage is not all that bad--and I really don't want to spend the cash on the displacement change. You can have the nicisil redone back to the original spec for about $750 at US Chrome(920-922-5066)---and there very well could be some place cheaper--I am just now researching it.
The damage is not all that bad--and I really don't want to spend the cash on the displacement change. You can have the nicisil redone back to the original spec for about $750 at US Chrome(920-922-5066)---and there very well could be some place cheaper--I am just now researching it.
The original block is Alusil. US Chrome will apply a Nicom coating (some sort of Nikasil coating). This coating is not the same as the stock Alusil block. So if you go to US Chrome, plan on purchasing new pistons for JE or other aftermarket pistons manufacturers.
04-04-2005, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cjb3
Looks familiar---I am in the same boat-and here is an option I have been thinking about.
The damage is not all that bad--and I really don't want to spend the cash on the displacement change. You can have the nicisil redone back to the original spec for about $750 at US Chrome(920-922-5066)---and there very well could be some place cheaper--I am just now researching it.
The damage is not all that bad--and I really don't want to spend the cash on the displacement change. You can have the nicisil redone back to the original spec for about $750 at US Chrome(920-922-5066)---and there very well could be some place cheaper--I am just now researching it.
04-04-2005, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by David Floyd
About $3800 IIRC, which I think is a very nice price for what you get.
Ive already got a big chunk of coin into this little project
04-04-2005, 02:32 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
I have a block with the Nicom plating. The factory pistons work fine, and you can use the 964 (C2)rings since they are 100 mm and designed for nikasil.
There are several challenges to the US Chrome route... the metric sized split pins holding the balance shaft bearings in place (they are very difficult to remove, and Porsche does not have a part # for them), crank/head studs have to be removed and replaced (extra $), every dowel pin has to be replaced (some are not available, but a 911 part # will work), and the oil galley plug near #1 in the crankcase with have to be threaded/plugged, and you MUST remove every other last piece of ferrous metal or it will be toast. A word of caution, strip the block yourself, or you may have other issues to deal with.
I ran my engine this way for a couple of thousand miles, but retired it due to the lower balance shaft starting to tighten up. The lower balance shaft area of the block was damaged by UPS and has never been the same. I am actually thinking about getting the block repaired properly and running it again.
If some of our European listers could source the correct sized locating pins, and some other nitpicky parts unavailable here, it would be a viable repair option. If your factory pistons are still in good shape, it could even cost less than the factory oversize piston route.
There are several challenges to the US Chrome route... the metric sized split pins holding the balance shaft bearings in place (they are very difficult to remove, and Porsche does not have a part # for them), crank/head studs have to be removed and replaced (extra $), every dowel pin has to be replaced (some are not available, but a 911 part # will work), and the oil galley plug near #1 in the crankcase with have to be threaded/plugged, and you MUST remove every other last piece of ferrous metal or it will be toast. A word of caution, strip the block yourself, or you may have other issues to deal with.
I ran my engine this way for a couple of thousand miles, but retired it due to the lower balance shaft starting to tighten up. The lower balance shaft area of the block was damaged by UPS and has never been the same. I am actually thinking about getting the block repaired properly and running it again.
If some of our European listers could source the correct sized locating pins, and some other nitpicky parts unavailable here, it would be a viable repair option. If your factory pistons are still in good shape, it could even cost less than the factory oversize piston route.
04-04-2005, 02:41 PM
#13
Three Wheelin'
John:
I have been told, the rings will wear out numerous times before the coating is worn out. Of course, mechanical damage, severe detonation can destroy it. Cannot verify either issue.
I have been told, the rings will wear out numerous times before the coating is worn out. Of course, mechanical damage, severe detonation can destroy it. Cannot verify either issue.
04-04-2005, 05:23 PM
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Sleeving/pistons for $3800?….I wish – I could retire a little earlier!
Its really $2750 for the 2.5 and $2850 for the 3.0 based blocks.
That being said – I wouldn’t worry too much about the marks on your cylinder walls – very common and they won’t cause you a problem unless you want the absolute best sealing ability (like the last 1%). If it were my engine I would clean it up and put it back together as is and save some funds for a project engine later.
Chris White
Its really $2750 for the 2.5 and $2850 for the 3.0 based blocks.
That being said – I wouldn’t worry too much about the marks on your cylinder walls – very common and they won’t cause you a problem unless you want the absolute best sealing ability (like the last 1%). If it were my engine I would clean it up and put it back together as is and save some funds for a project engine later.
Chris White
04-04-2005, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris White
Sleeving/pistons for $3800?….I wish – I could retire a little earlier!
Its really $2750 for the 2.5 and $2850 for the 3.0 based blocks.
That being said – I wouldn’t worry too much about the marks on your cylinder walls – very common and they won’t cause you a problem unless you want the absolute best sealing ability (like the last 1%). If it were my engine I would clean it up and put it back together as is and save some funds for a project engine later.
Chris White
Its really $2750 for the 2.5 and $2850 for the 3.0 based blocks.
That being said – I wouldn’t worry too much about the marks on your cylinder walls – very common and they won’t cause you a problem unless you want the absolute best sealing ability (like the last 1%). If it were my engine I would clean it up and put it back together as is and save some funds for a project engine later.
Chris White