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It's a good time to pull the trigger on koni. The inserts are on sale on the koni website. $157 each.
what’s your rear setup and what would you recommend for an aggressive street set-up for the rear? I am stock torsion bar, stock stocks and Weltmeister sway bar.
i would like to lower the rear, stiffen the with different torsion bars and upgrade the shocks.
what’s your rear setup and what would you recommend for an aggressive street set-up for the rear? I am stock torsion bar, stock stocks and Weltmeister sway bar.
i would like to lower the rear, stiffen the with different torsion bars and upgrade the shocks.
Honestly. I would refresh all the bushings and since you already have a good swaybar. The koni yellows are really good. I know, They say that its just rebound adjustable, but they also stiffen on compression.
A really good swaybar is the same as adding sprung spring weight. Only you don't suffer the adverse effects of going to stiff.
I don't see a reason to replace springs for a street car.
The 944 inherently shifts the weight in the rear for better turn in. If you go stiffer it won't be as forgiving.
Just kidding. I was joking that your air filter looks a little beat up and dirty relative to the virtually everything else under the hood. Lart sells old used parts, so I was just being a wise-guy. But if any engine bay deserves a nice new straight pink K&N filter, it's yours.
Next on the list, I've been doing the belts, rollers, waterpump, b/s oil seals and swapping out a seeping oil cooler line. Yesterday I went to torque the main crank bolt back in place and realized my fairly new digital Snap-On torque wrench only went to 100 ft lbs. So I set it to 100 for the initial torque. Then I got out an older Craftsman click-style wrench (which hasn't been calibrated in a decade) and set it to its max of 150 ft lbs. I was fairly disappointed to discover that -- with the bolt torqued to 100 with the Snap-On -- the Craftsman clicked without moving the bolt even though it was set to 150! I then did a few other tests with other wrenches and concluded the Craftsman was just inaccurate to the point of being unusable to set torque. In fairness, I just it mostly for cranking the motor and it's old, but I'm surprised exactly how inaccurate it had become. Don't trust old torque wrenches!
Anyway, I was then trying to figure out how to set the torque on the bolt. I was going to use the calibrated arm approach when it dawned on me my wife had given me a huge torque wrench for Christmas a few years ago. My original Snap-On just broke and she wanted to get me something "really good" and somehow found this monster. Bigger is better she thought. I opted to keep it because I may end up with a center lock 911 at some point, but forgot about it until yesterday. It goes from 150 to 700 ft lbs. Too bulky to get it from above, but was able to get at it from below on a lift and it worked like a charm. The thing is so big, it just shrugs off that little crank bolt... . This is honestly the first time I had assembled and seen the thing ready to go, so had to share. The 3/4" drive piece has to be inserted into the head, and then the handle extension slides on to the base wrench -- so the whole thing ends up being well over 5 feet long, maybe 6....
Next on the list, I've been doing the belts, rollers, waterpump, b/s oil seals and swapping out a seeping oil cooler line. Yesterday I went to torque the main crank bolt back in place and realized my fairly new digital Snap-On torque wrench only went to 100 ft lbs. So I set it to 100 for the initial torque. Then I got out an older Craftsman click-style wrench (which hasn't been calibrated in a decade) and set it to its max of 150 ft lbs. I was fairly disappointed to discover that -- with the bolt torqued to 100 with the Snap-On -- the Craftsman clicked without moving the bolt even though it was set to 150! I then did a few other tests with other wrenches and concluded the Craftsman was just inaccurate to the point of being unusable to set torque. In fairness, I just it mostly for cranking the motor and it's old, but I'm surprised exactly how inaccurate it had become. Don't trust old torque wrenches!
Anyway, I was then trying to figure out how to set the torque on the bolt. I was going to use the calibrated arm approach when it dawned on me my wife had given me a huge torque wrench for Christmas a few years ago. My original Snap-On just broke and she wanted to get me something "really good" and somehow found this monster. Bigger is better she thought. I opted to keep it because I may end up with a center lock 911 at some point, but forgot about it until yesterday. It goes from 150 to 700 ft lbs. Too bulky to get it from above, but was able to get at it from below on a lift and it worked like a charm. The thing is so big, it just shrugs off that little crank bolt... . This is honestly the first time I had assembled and seen the thing ready to go, so had to share. The 3/4" drive piece has to be inserted into the head, and then the handle extension slides on to the base wrench -- so the whole thing ends up being well over 5 feet long, maybe 6....
That's a nice torque wrench! Too bad that you had to buy it for use on one of Porsche's worst ideas (center lock wheels for street cars). I suppose that you 991TT is new enough that you have not had reason to remove the wheels yet. That size of torque wrench is also handy for axle nuts---unlike center-lock bolts, you can torque these with the full weight of the car on the wheels and access the nut with the wheel center cap removed.
Ironically, when I finally ordered my 991TTS, I opted for conventional lug nuts. I don't actually touch it myself, since it's under warranty, etc., but I just preferred the look of the sport classic wheels and they only came with conventional lug nuts...
Next on the list, I've been doing the belts, rollers, waterpump, b/s oil seals and swapping out a seeping oil cooler line. Yesterday I went to torque the main crank bolt back in place and realized my fairly new digital Snap-On torque wrench only went to 100 ft lbs. So I set it to 100 for the initial torque. Then I got out an older Craftsman click-style wrench (which hasn't been calibrated in a decade) and set it to its max of 150 ft lbs. I was fairly disappointed to discover that -- with the bolt torqued to 100 with the Snap-On -- the Craftsman clicked without moving the bolt even though it was set to 150! I then did a few other tests with other wrenches and concluded the Craftsman was just inaccurate to the point of being unusable to set torque. In fairness, I just it mostly for cranking the motor and it's old, but I'm surprised exactly how inaccurate it had become. Don't trust old torque wrenches!
Anyway, I was then trying to figure out how to set the torque on the bolt. I was going to use the calibrated arm approach when it dawned on me my wife had given me a huge torque wrench for Christmas a few years ago. My original Snap-On just broke and she wanted to get me something "really good" and somehow found this monster. Bigger is better she thought. I opted to keep it because I may end up with a center lock 911 at some point, but forgot about it until yesterday. It goes from 150 to 700 ft lbs. Too bulky to get it from above, but was able to get at it from below on a lift and it worked like a charm. The thing is so big, it just shrugs off that little crank bolt... . This is honestly the first time I had assembled and seen the thing ready to go, so had to share. The 3/4" drive piece has to be inserted into the head, and then the handle extension slides on to the base wrench -- so the whole thing ends up being well over 5 feet long, maybe 6....
The man with so many toys 🤣
I’ll know who to go to in case I need to remove that bolt 😉
The wife will be happy you used one of her Christmas gifts 😍
Just kidding. I was joking that your air filter looks a little beat up and dirty relative to the virtually everything else under the hood. Lart sells old used parts, so I was just being a wise-guy. But if any engine bay deserves a nice new straight pink K&N filter, it's yours.
AH...It is beat up by me mashing it a bit to make so doesnt bind with the headlight opening...Reminded me to measure and try to find smaller size filter... or mod and move inside fender
AH...It is beat up by me mashing it a bit to make so doesnt bind with the headlight opening...Reminded me to measure and try to find smaller size filter... or mod and move inside fender
After crumpling up my share of filters, I finally made this out of the thinnest aluminum sheet they had at the hardware store. I wrap it around the filter and secure and use packing tape to keep it together until everything is situated just right. I actually was able to fit a bigger filter this way, although in fairness I also cut the headlight bracket for more room...
Next on the list, I've been doing the belts, rollers, waterpump, b/s oil seals and swapping out a seeping oil cooler line. Yesterday I went to torque the main crank bolt back in place and realized my fairly new digital Snap-On torque wrench only went to 100 ft lbs. So I set it to 100 for the initial torque. Then I got out an older Craftsman click-style wrench (which hasn't been calibrated in a decade) and set it to its max of 150 ft lbs. I was fairly disappointed to discover that -- with the bolt torqued to 100 with the Snap-On -- the Craftsman clicked without moving the bolt even though it was set to 150! I then did a few other tests with other wrenches and concluded the Craftsman was just inaccurate to the point of being unusable to set torque. In fairness, I just it mostly for cranking the motor and it's old, but I'm surprised exactly how inaccurate it had become. Don't trust old torque wrenches!
Anyway, I was then trying to figure out how to set the torque on the bolt. I was going to use the calibrated arm approach when it dawned on me my wife had given me a huge torque wrench for Christmas a few years ago. My original Snap-On just broke and she wanted to get me something "really good" and somehow found this monster. Bigger is better she thought. I opted to keep it because I may end up with a center lock 911 at some point, but forgot about it until yesterday. It goes from 150 to 700 ft lbs. Too bulky to get it from above, but was able to get at it from below on a lift and it worked like a charm. The thing is so big, it just shrugs off that little crank bolt... . This is honestly the first time I had assembled and seen the thing ready to go, so had to share. The 3/4" drive piece has to be inserted into the head, and then the handle extension slides on to the base wrench -- so the whole thing ends up being well over 5 feet long, maybe 6....
Could have used this since I just broke my 1/2" on the rear end axle bolt.. lol Just finished replacing a rear trailing arm I bought the part in 2016 including this week all new zim rotors with hawk pads, plus alignment and other stuff. Purchased new rear coilovers from Paragon but it is weeks behind. No problem but the squat problem is so old on the new setup. The bench has too many parts sitting but not entirely the ones I want to work with right now but they will do.
Could have used this since I just broke my 1/2" on the rear end axle bolt.. lol Just finished replacing a rear trailing arm I bought the part in 2016 including this week all new zim rotors with hawk pads, plus alignment and other stuff. Purchased new rear coilovers from Paragon but it is weeks behind. No problem but the squat problem is so old on the new setup. The bench has too many parts sitting but not entirely the ones I want to work with right now but they will do.
Is that the notorious recalled Harbor Freight Jack Stand?
Those look like "Big Red" stands by Torin, but DME should check for sure. I'm also not a fan of using that rear-most jack point -- they just don't seem beefy enough to support the weight. I'm paranoid so generally put back-up jack stands, and a wheel under the car if I'm getting under it. Also, long before the HF recall, I just never felt safe under those ratchet style stands. I'm a big big fan of the ESCO jack stands with the big flat feet, flat rubber top, and beefy pins. There was a group buy on them years ago, and they've become popular enough now that I think the current retail on them is less than the old group buy.
05-14-2020, 02:27 PM
But if any engine bay deserves a nice new straight pink K&N filter, it's yours. 
