DME Harness Connectors
#1
DME Harness Connectors
I bought a new connector to replace my isv plug on my harness and I'm trying to remove the wires from the old plug without damaging them. Is there a tool or a trick to remove them easily? I know there's a tab or something that needs pressed inside to release the individual pins. Any tips?
#2
There are tools for this purpose that and others make but for the AMP power timer connectors usually a small thin flat tipped screw driver works best. Above the area where the contact slides into there is a tab that engages the plug; that tab needs to be depressed to allow it to slide out the back (See Arrow on Picture). However, sometimes the tab becomes too weak after removal and doesn't do a great job of grabbing the connector the next time around.
#3
There are tools for this purpose that Lisle and others make but for the AMP power timer connectors usually a small thin flat tipped screw driver works best. Above the area where the contact slides into there is a tab that engages the plug; that tab needs to be depressed to allow it to slide out the back (See Arrow on Picture). However, sometimes the tab becomes too weak after removal and doesn't do a great job of grabbing the connector the next time around.
#4
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
ive had luck using a regular push-pin carefully maneuvering to undo the "hooks" one one side and pushing/pulling the wire from the other.
#6
#7
Rennlist Member
Most auto parts stores carry a Lisle pin extraction tool if you can't find something around the house to release the pins. The two connectors you show are technically different -- one is a "Junior Timer" and the other is a "Junior Power Timer." Lots of people interchange the pins without problems, though I imagine the manufacture would shudder at the thought and tell you the sky will fall if you mix the pins. See post 17 here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...nectors-2.html
Why are you replacing the plastic housing but not the pins inside? Unless the plastic cracked or broke, I can't think of a good reason to change just the plastic? Bad connections are likely to be caused by frayed wires where they go into the pins, so you might be just transferring an existing problem into a new plastic connector? You can get those pins easily online and crimp them on the factory wires using a Weather Pack or Molex .093" crimping tool -- that way you'd have a new fresh connection...
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...nectors-2.html
Why are you replacing the plastic housing but not the pins inside? Unless the plastic cracked or broke, I can't think of a good reason to change just the plastic? Bad connections are likely to be caused by frayed wires where they go into the pins, so you might be just transferring an existing problem into a new plastic connector? You can get those pins easily online and crimp them on the factory wires using a Weather Pack or Molex .093" crimping tool -- that way you'd have a new fresh connection...
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#8
Most auto parts stores carry a Lisle pin extraction tool if you can't find something around the house to release the pins. The two connectors you show are technically different -- one is a "Junior Timer" and the other is a "Junior Power Timer." Lots of people interchange the pins without problems, though I imagine the manufacture would shudder at the thought and tell you the sky will fall if you mix the pins. See post 17 here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...nectors-2.html
Why are you replacing the plastic housing but not the pins inside? Unless the plastic cracked or broke, I can't think of a good reason to change just the plastic? Bad connections are likely to be caused by frayed wires where they go into the pins, so you might be just transferring an existing problem into a new plastic connector? You can get those pins easily online and crimp them on the factory wires using a Weather Pack or Molex .093" crimping tool -- that way you'd have a new fresh connection...
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...nectors-2.html
Why are you replacing the plastic housing but not the pins inside? Unless the plastic cracked or broke, I can't think of a good reason to change just the plastic? Bad connections are likely to be caused by frayed wires where they go into the pins, so you might be just transferring an existing problem into a new plastic connector? You can get those pins easily online and crimp them on the factory wires using a Weather Pack or Molex .093" crimping tool -- that way you'd have a new fresh connection...
Before pic: actually looked worse than it was.