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Hard to tell from the picture, but unlikely. The JT contacts have two sets of tabs, one for the wire strands and one for the insulation and/or wire seal. These types of crimpers are designed to crimp a single set of tabs at a time--meaning you crimp the wire strands using one size and then crimp the insulation/seal using another. The trick is, the tool is frequently wider than the tabs for the wire strands, which causes the contact to buckle when you apply enough pressure to crimp the strands.
Most of the tools I've had success with crimp both the wire and insulation at the same time. That said, it is frequently handy to have a tool like this around to cinch up the insulation crimp in the case where the dual crimpers don't quite get it tight enough.
Agreed. I have a collection of ratchet-style crimpers and have been trying them all. The .093 Molex crimper works well, but it's designed for pins that wrap onto the insulation, rather than a silicon seal like the JPT pins use. The best crimper in my tool drawer turns out to be this WeatherPack ratcheting crimper, Delphi 12014254: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/440/...sT0BoCenPw_wcB
You have to remove the pin holder to use it, since the boxy JPT pins don't fit, but once that's off, it work well. See pic below.
The JPT datasheet lists crimpers and dies for these pins, but I have the WeatherPack handy so will likely use it unless someone finds a good dedicated crimper that doesn't cost a thousand dollars...
I've come to realize the connectors and pins listed in this thread are slightly mismatched. The original connectors on our injectors appear to be JUNIOR TIMER (JT) connectors, like the connector 827551-3 listed above. There is also a JUNIOR POWER TIMER (JPT) connector, which is plug compatible but slightly different, and the contact pins listed above are actually for that series. You can get away mixing and matching, but probably better not to. The JPT connector and pins have two lock-tangs, whereas the JT series only has one. In the picture below, you can see the two tangs on the JPT pin, and the two corresponding extraction slots on the JPT connector, compared to one on the JT connector. So if you stick with the JT connector listed, a JT pin like 925590-2 is probably better. (The extra tang on the JPT pin will just remain compressed in the JT connector, so probably no big deal, but still...) If you move to a JPT connector like 85202-1, then you'd want to use the two-tang JPT pins listed above.
Thanks for the update, Tom. There is indeed a mismatch, as you observed.
I just reviewed my harness and confirmed that I used JPT bodies in the places I used new connectors (which was pretty much everywhere). Of course, one place I didn't use new was the DME and KLR connectors. These are JT-style bodies, into which I inserted JTP-style contacts. Seems to be working fine.
For further reference, here are a couple close-ups of the differences in the terminals: On the right is a 929937-6 (JPT-style); on the left is an OE terminal from a 951 DME connector (JT-style).
On the topic of minutiae, note the other subtle differences. The OE terminal has a split contact area, whereas the JPT does not. The width of the contact point is smaller on the JPT terminal (by ~0.3mm), however the total contact area *may* be similar given the split.
The other thing of note is the crimp area on the OE terminal is rotated 90* relative to the contact surface, while on the JPT terminals it is straight-on. This rotation provides more room for the DME connector shell lock bar to seat in the shell. That said, using the JPT terminals in the DME connector I was able to get the lock bar to seat far enough into the connector shell to be able to put the cover on. So again it seems like you can mix and match without too much worry.
Looking at my pictures again, I'm so envious of the OE crimps, with the dual bell-mouths at each end. Wish I could do that!
When I discovered this, I rechecked the injector connector I replaced and the pins are fully seated and locked in place. I'd pull the wires out of the pin before the pin comes out. The extra tang on the JPT pin might make extraction more difficult, because there is no access channel to use to keep that tang from catching on the inside of the connector, but so be it. Since we're down the connector rabbit hole, the other difference appears to be how JT and JPT are sealed. The JT uses those external black rubber boots, as seen all over the 951 engine bay. The JPT is designed for use with those round silicon wire seals that get crimped with the wire like in my crimp picture above. Makes them less bulky, though you have to wonder if they seal as well. Try the weatherpac crimpers -- they make very good crimps on the JPT pins (though admittedly not quite as machine-perfect as the factory).
Since we're down the connector rabbit hole, the other difference appears to be how JT and JPT are sealed. The JT uses those external black rubber boots, as seen all over the 951 engine bay. The JPT is designed for use with those round silicon wire seals that get crimped with the wire like in my crimp picture above. Makes them less bulky, though you have to wonder if they seal as well.
Sorry for the very old thread bump but I'll bring this thread back from the dead as I'm going through the process of restoring a 968 and have learned a bunch of things. The type of seal used is not dependant on the type of terminal (JT or JPT), it's really just how the manufacturer of the connector themselves decided to do it. Bosch favours the rubber boot as is evident on all the 80s and 90s German cars (BMWs of the same era use all the same plugs) whereas other more recent companies use those smaller seals as seen in the example above which is what you might find if you buy aftermarket Bosch compatible EV1 connectors.
The 968 uses all JPT terminals but has the traditional Bosch rubber boot seals.
Sorry for the very old thread bump but I'll bring this thread back from the dead as I'm going through the process of restoring a 968 and have learned a bunch of things. The type of seal used is not dependant on the type of terminal (JT or JPT), it's really just how the manufacturer of the connector themselves decided to do it. Bosch favours the rubber boot as is evident on all the 80s and 90s German cars (BMWs of the same era use all the same plugs) whereas other more recent companies use those smaller seals as seen in the example above which is what you might find if you buy aftermarket Bosch compatible EV1 connectors.
The 968 uses all JPT terminals but has the traditional Bosch rubber boot seals.
I've since ordered a pretty wide range of various JPT and JT connectors for another project, and agree the seals are not necessarily based on JPT vs JT. I stand corrected.
It would sure be nice to have options for a complete harness solution for our cars... that doesn't cost $2k. I've been recently contemplating tackling this project on my own, similar to Refresh951 did. I've got some extra additions into my original harness that I would include in a new harness build. Splicing into a brand new Kroon harness would be cringe-worthy.
I wonder if a company like Wiring Specialties (https://www.wiringspecialties.com/) would be willing to do a harness for us with a group buy. I just got a new harness for my 300zx earlier this year. The quality is outstanding IMHO.
tons of companies out there that make GM "swap" or "standalone" harnesses, in the 400$ range.
i'm sure if you gave them a harness to use as a template and were ok re-using some of the odd connectors (with new wires inside) they could give you a better price.
Lindsey sells a functional engine harness for $500 (less cycling valve apparently). Kroon is multiples of that for sure, but for the money you get factory color-coded metric wires, rubber snorkel, factory-style sheathing, etc. You really have to look at it to tell if from a factory harness. For such a niche market, I'd say we are lucky to have options on both ends of the spectrum.
07-07-2016, 01:37 PM
