DME Harness Connectors
 

I bought a new connector to replace my isv plug on my harness and I'm trying to remove the wires from the old plug without damaging them. Is there a tool or a trick to remove them easily? I know there's a tab or something that needs pressed inside to release the individual pins. Any tips?

There are tools for this purpose that and others make but for the AMP power timer connectors usually a small thin flat tipped screw driver works best. Above the area where the contact slides into there is a tab that engages the plug; that tab needs to be depressed to allow it to slide out the back (See Arrow on Picture). However, sometimes the tab becomes too weak after removal and doesn't do a great job of grabbing the connector the next time around.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fa3fe858f3.png

​​​​​​I noticed my old connector has a " T " shape in the plastic face where the wires snap in and the new style connector has a " + " shape. I'm guessing the old clips have 1 holding tab and the new ones have two?

ive had luck using a regular push-pin carefully maneuvering to undo the "hooks" one one side and pushing/pulling the wire from the other.

Find a bobby pin straighten it out and snip off the ball end and bam, the best tool i've ever used for removing those pins.

Nice tip! Got the old one off here's a pic of the difference between the old style and new style. I confirmed the old style pins work in the new connector.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...abc9fe45a9.jpg

Most auto parts stores carry a Lisle pin extraction tool if you can't find something around the house to release the pins. The two connectors you show are technically different -- one is a "Junior Timer" and the other is a "Junior Power Timer." Lots of people interchange the pins without problems, though I imagine the manufacture would shudder at the thought and tell you the sky will fall if you mix the pins. See post 17 here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...nectors-2.html

Why are you replacing the plastic housing but not the pins inside? Unless the plastic cracked or broke, I can't think of a good reason to change just the plastic? Bad connections are likely to be caused by frayed wires where they go into the pins, so you might be just transferring an existing problem into a new plastic connector? You can get those pins easily online and crimp them on the factory wires using a Weather Pack or Molex .093" crimping tool -- that way you'd have a new fresh connection...

The plug was still working but the rubber boot and some of the wires had cracked insulation. I removed any loose insulation, soldered any bare wire and heat shrunk each wire and installed a new plug. All is working as it should.
Before pic: actually looked worse than it was.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3ab9930f5e.jpg

Sounds good. Plenty of ways to get the job done -- glad it's working!