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Finally finished the radiator pipes and fan shroud.
Had to do some serious mods to the old supercharger air cleaner to fit the twin throttle bodies, plus add in fittings for the MAF sensor and the air-oil separator breathe line.
Time now for some electrickery to test it.
Although I have a hoist, it's still not an easy way to check the trans oil, so I've made some changes.
Now I can kneel on the r
h rear seat, lean into the back, fold back the carpet, unscrew the cap and pull out the dipstick.
I made the dipstick touch on the bottom of the reservoir so it will read from there if the trans moves [as it will] when the mounts collapse.
Also had to make the cutaway for the rear cross member long enough for the trans to slide back and forth for engine in/out.
I started by wanting to increase the trans fluid quantity, given I've removed the lines to the radiator and the task moved on.
I would like to have included a 'low level' warning light switch but couldn't find one.
It doesn't have to be removed to remove the sump, just undo the 2, 6mm screws that held the original bottle.
Eventually got the motor/gearbox mounted for the electric PS. Not much room to spare but it all fits. Just as well it's not a manual gearbox.
I stressed for a while about putting the power assisted load through the bottom half of the column until I realised the no car manufacturer could sell a car that would break and hit a tree if it burst a hose, or broke a belt or simply ran out of hydraulic fluid. The biggest issue is that the Porsche U-joints work at an extreme angle that no one else can match, [they also use a very uncommon spline size, 53x17m]. Fortunately, the angle of the column to shaft is spread over 2 U-joints now, so it works ok with the supplied
'Flaming River' SS U-joints. Had to change the up/down slot angle a bit because the arc length has shortened. Not pictured is an extra mounting bracket on the steering wheel end of the motor/gearbox unit.
Finished the electric steering, poor photo, but we pushed it up the drive and it's great, so quiet.
Rebuilt the HVAC and got it back in. Spent days sorting through old wiring looms, 3 of them, getting various plugs and bits of looms that will be reused. e.g. HVAC, pad sensors & ABS.
Currently busy with the total rewire job, just laying out each wire in its path.
I've come to the A/C wires in the front loom and they will include the refrigerant low pressure switch and the high temp switch located on the dryer/condenser.
These seem quite simple. low pressure simply cuts the feed to the A/C compressor clutch and the high temp triggers the front fan to come on.
In the '86 S ROW wiring diagram, there is a component on page 97-243 at D31 called 'THERMOSWITCH ETR (EVAPORATOR) SWITCH'.
Is this what is sometimes refered to as the 'deicing switch'? located on the A/C box in the wiper bay?
The low pressure switch does John but the switch at D31 [thermoswitch etr] is fed from the A/C control unit and then through a suppressor to earth?
Yes, 12v from the relay in the aircon control head goes via the Thermoswitch (Evaporator switch) to K21 CE and to the suppressor relay X! which is diode to ground. 12v then goes out of the CE panel on M12 to the low pressure switch and finally to the compressor clutch.
12-17-2018, 01:14 AM
Radiator
