Alan

No - this is not how it works. Rear defrost/defog is not related to AC in any way.

ramcram you are doing some very interesting things with your build!

Alan

ramcram

I truly hope it is not loud.
I'm about to do some not very scientific noise tests. I will put my sound meter at one end of the modified muffler and a horn at the other end then measure the sound level.
Then repeat it with the 4" in/out commercial muffler I have for the rear.
Then again with the horn and the meter the same distance apart with nothing between them.
I guess I can always put 2 'hot dog' resonators after the 4" muffler if it is too loud?

ramcram

Thanks Alan, I think? or is that like telling a politician that he's making a 'brave' decision?
I confess to often wanting to 'go my own way' as it were but I do base my plans on a lot of reading and learning from other's adventurers.
I finished my apprenticeship as a motor mechanic in the early 1970s and worked on things like Caterpillar bulldozers, right down to chainsaws and dirt wakkas, so I have seen inside a few machines.
My plan with this project is still to end up with a car that still looks like a stock 928S but has 2020 [or 2030 when I get there] technology under the skin.
To that end, I have just ordered a Powertrain Control Solutions GSM5000 transmission control system. This will let me select/shift gears by the touch of a button, or by wireless paddle shifter but I do't think I need that option.
Mike

ramcram

Finally got the new exhaust system tacked up ready for the welder to finish off.
I'm pleased with the out come of the centre muffler in particular, worth all the stuffing around. It clears every thing, just and the tail pipes will look pretty 'normal' from the outside when it's on its wheels.
Now the headers need to be finished off so they clear the RHD steering column.

SwayBar

What's your time estimate for first start-up?

grepin

Yes great question. I am pretty excited I may see this one day.

ramcram

Ah, well!
Now the pipes can come off to be fully welded, the dummy motor can come out, which has the 'real' heads on it, they can then be permanently fitted to the 'real' motor and it can be fitted in the chassis.
Before the motor goes in, I want to wire it up for the Link Thunder ECU, on the engine stand, just for comfort and while this is happening, the car will go to the body shop for some minor work, like filling he door key holes and the side strip holes.
Then, motor in, connect up a few things and time for some noise, sorry, music.
So, maybe, sometime later this year? There is still a heap of things to do, and why rush while it's still fun?

GregBBRD

The art project looks great!

SwayBar

ramcram

I'm trying to find out what current supply I will need for my 8 Beru coil-on-plug units, from a Porsche Cayenne.


I found this data from in an article on the development of the Cayenne coils.

Beru Coil-On-Plug Data
Primary current [A] 9 15
Current-rise time [ms] 1.75 2.4
Secondary voltage [kV] 1 MOhm // 25 pF 26 31
Energy data (secondary load,
1000 V Zener to ISO 6518-2)
Spark duration [ms] 1.7 1.85
Spark current [mA] 60 80
Spark energy [mJ] 45 65

I don't know why they have 2 columns of data for each value?

I just want to know what current is required to feed the 8 coils in service?

Electrical gurus, please?

John Speake

I am guessing that the lower figure is the holding current and the larger the initial opening current surge. But x 8 that's a lots of current !

ramcram

John, that's exactly what I was thinking?

I'm happy to feed each bank through a Solid State Relay but as you say, 60 Amps / bank??

John Speake

It seems a huge current for sure. Maybe buy one and see what the d.c resistance is and do some tests.

ramcram

John, I have the 8 of them but I don't know how to achieve what your suggesting?
Here's the info I've collected.
5V falling edge, min 18mA
pin-1=ecu ground
pin-2=engine ground
pin-3=12V constant
pin-4=5V trigger

Mike

John Speake

Just measure between the (two?) terminals with a meter on ohms for a start.