Rear Main Seal Leaking After Replacement
#1
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Rear Main Seal Leaking After Replacement
Hello,
So after logging a few running hours on the "new" engine in my 79, I noticed the rear main seal is leaking pretty good. This doesn't surprise me......I installed in on the stand and forget to set it in flush (duh moment) It sits proud about 1/8 of an inch or so.
I am prepared for the inevitable.....pulling the clutch again BUT before I do, does anyone have any suggestions to set it in further with the clutch in place?
I know its a long shot, but I hate having to remove the clutch again, especially when it was working so well.......
Thanks
So after logging a few running hours on the "new" engine in my 79, I noticed the rear main seal is leaking pretty good. This doesn't surprise me......I installed in on the stand and forget to set it in flush (duh moment) It sits proud about 1/8 of an inch or so.
I am prepared for the inevitable.....pulling the clutch again BUT before I do, does anyone have any suggestions to set it in further with the clutch in place?
I know its a long shot, but I hate having to remove the clutch again, especially when it was working so well.......
Thanks
#2
Not possible.
Start the pulling.
BTW....I've been having terrible problems with rear main seals leaking....I had an engine which I tried 4 different seals in, before I got one to seal (switched brands.)
Irritating.
Start the pulling.
BTW....I've been having terrible problems with rear main seals leaking....I had an engine which I tried 4 different seals in, before I got one to seal (switched brands.)
Irritating.
#3
The hell is going on? I thought it was just my dumbass having issues.
#4
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From: Bucks County, PA
#5
#6
I've fought this battle, before.....several times, in my life....with 911s.
I believe what happens is that a seal maker runs low and makes a new run of seals. Slightly different material or some other microscopic difference and the seal brand you've had work perfectly, for years, leaks like a fountain.
Soecifically, I've been having problems with the black seal with the metal "lead-in" lip....with "Porsche" molded into it. I'm sad to have this one leak, it is so much easier to install!
Because I've "played" this game before (911s use the same seal), I've got a main seal box with 6-7 different seal colors/styles....some might be 20 years old. White ones, red ones, black ones, black ones with red on the seal lip, etc.
I would have to check with Mary (she keeps track of stuff like this...so she knows what to order), but I believe I've been installing the more difficult to install (no metal leading in portion) black and red ones.
#7
the Grey/black Porsche one installed on my fresh engine leaked as well. Greg got me a replacement "hard to install" Black/Orange one (dont know brand- no tapered lead in edge) and that did the trick. Tedious to install without the right "lubrication"...
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#8
Sucks, as that was a great seal, before this.
#9
Have either of you used the metal installation tool #234 that you bolt onto the crank and wind down?
Seems like it would guide the seal into place pretty well or are you still using the old tool that you press onto?
As an auto owner I would like to know so that when I do it, I don't have to pull the engine or torque tube to do the job over.
Seems like it would guide the seal into place pretty well or are you still using the old tool that you press onto?
As an auto owner I would like to know so that when I do it, I don't have to pull the engine or torque tube to do the job over.
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So I pulled the old seal today and I really do believe the seal was more the issue than the installation. Once the flywheel was out of the way, I found the seal to be flush and evenly installed. It was leaking from the removal cut out and from the crank to seal area. My old engine had a Beck Arnley seal and was dry as a bone after 1k miles. I am ordering another Beck seal to replace this failed seal.
The seal I removed was the one with the metal lip which made for easy installation but the lack of rubber ribbing I think may be an issue.
The seal I removed was the one with the metal lip which made for easy installation but the lack of rubber ribbing I think may be an issue.
#12
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Same crank seal from the 1979 Rabbit which was also used in the Bugatti Veyron:
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cult...ugatti-veyron/
#13
Too bad our cars do not use VW part number: 716102 / 955 101 051 00
Same crank seal from the 1979 Rabbit which was also used in the Bugatti Veyron:
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cult...ugatti-veyron/
Same crank seal from the 1979 Rabbit which was also used in the Bugatti Veyron:
http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cult...ugatti-veyron/
The 928 seal fits 911's, 944's, 968's.
The newer, modern design 911 seal fits....all Teflon, allow to sit for 24 hours before running, pray everything is perfect and it doesn't leak.
#15
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or this one:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...101-212-01-M17
There's also a 955 part number which brings up this unit @ 85 X 105 X 11 mm:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...01-051-00-M104
Our crank seal -
Front: 60x85x10 mm
Rear: 90x110x12 mm