Dave... you should try it the other way...way easier

 

Thanks may give it a try, just less to remove and then re-torque, also no need to lift the rear of the car
Also don't those trans bolts require removing the E brake cable from the cross member to get a clear shot at them?

Agree that it would be less wiggling about

Thanks again,

Dave

 

I removed the wrong two bolts from trans. I did have to remove e-brake cable to get to them. Heading out of town tomorrow. Will have to get on it next week. Thanks guys!

 

Huh?

 

yes, i think there are 2 x 10mm bolts that hold the ebrake cable. I just removed those bolts and pushed the cable aside to access the Trans bolts

 

When I pulled my '78 engine, separating the engine from the bell housing was the hardest part of the ordeal. The bell housing parts were basically sealed against each other. I ended up using ratcheting straps to pull the back half enough to use my pry bar in order to finish the job. Best of luck!

 

it was a good day

 

Great job. I hope to get there on Monday. Will a 750lb engine stand hold our engines?

 

Kent, were you so ecstatic that your pants came off?

 

From a prior 'engine weight thread' here on RL...

the 32-valve engine weighs 264 kg dry,
the 4.7 16V engine weighs 261kg dry,
the 4.5 16V engine weighs 245kg dry.

Hope this helps?

 

Ok guys. I'm Getting really frustrated with this removal. I checked the two bolts and I had removed the correct two transmission bolts. It won't slide back. I have a pry bar inserted to separate the bellhousing but the pins won't come out and the tranny won't slide back. Are there other tranny bolts holding it in place?

 

5 speed or auto?

5 speed needs clutch removed.

Auto needs flex plate disconnected from flywheel.

 

It's an Auto. I disconnected the flex plate in accordance with the instructions. I have plenty of space there.

 

Then grab a flash light and as you have it raised up a bit, take a look around. About the only thing I can think of that you might not have disconnected would be the engine to chassis ground on the passenger side, but I think something would have busted on it first.

So exhaust, 4 bell housing bolts, flex plate, engine harness, 8 motor mount bolts, A/C, power steering/alternator, coil grounds. If the torque tube is jacked all the way to the tunnel it should come out fairly easy. Nose of the engine up higher than the rear and a bit of wiggling.

 

Thanks Sean. I'll give it another once over. If I can't get it out, I'll begin removing everything and part out what I can remove.