There are four bolts that attach the bell housing to the engine. They are 19mm bolts. Two on the bottom also attach to the exhaust manifolds (depending on year i suppose) There are two on top that give most of us fits to remove.

There are 8 bolts that attach the motor mounts to the engine.

If they have been removed you might need a bigger pry bar.

 

I can't remember which car it was but I do recall having a bear of a time getting one engine to separate from the bellhousing, like there was a lot of corrosion around the dowel pins and the two pieces were just bound together. Maybe dribble a little Kroil along the seam between block and bellhousing and let it penetrate a bit, then get a bigger pry bar? Or lift the engine a half inch with the engine hoist and get the pieces to move a bit?

 

Sean, you're a genius. I got it out. When you mount it to a engine stand, do you bolt the stand to the bell housing?

 

Look at the pic on post #37 with the engine on a stand.

 

This might help to mount the engine to the stand.

http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/inde...6#.WL8jFm_yuUk

 

^^^^ I have a couple of sets of those. Terrific product.

 

I remove the Engine stand bracket (the part that turns) from the stand and then bolt it to the block (four bolts) then slid the bracket back into the engine stand.

This puts less stress on the block when bolting it up as it is not supporting the entire weight of the Engine stand.

Glad to hear you got it, what did you miss?

Dave K

 

And grease the yoke! Makes the job of rotating the engine much easier.

 

Making progress. I got the engine out and the intake with all burned & melted hoses and wires removed. Before I remove the front engine bits, do I need to be concerned with putting the engine at TDC? I plan on removing the heads and putting a new head gasket on. Can I lock the flywheel with the engine out? I have a locking tool but nowhere to attach it.

What do you all recommend to clean the block? What about fuel rails and metal brackets?

Any and all advice in this endeavor is welcome.

 

 

This is it resting after 12 hr sprint to D.C. From Memphis

 

Got better engine bay pics but file to large to upload

 

You will need to set the engine at 45deg BTDC before removing the heads. You can lock the engine by using two sets of locking pliers (aka Vice Grips) and a piece of 1/4" x 1-1/2" steel flat stock. Cut the steel to length such that it spans across the flex plate/flywheel with each end securely under the bottom of the lower support arms on your engine stand. With the bar held snug against the support arms where the engine-to-stand bolts go through, use the Vice Grips to securely clamp the bar in place against the flex plate/flywheel. This arrangement will be secure enough to loosen the crank bolt.

Mike

 

As for Cleaning, I'd start with Simple Green "purple" or regular, if you use purple don't leave it on to long, then rinse w/ clear water.
Close off places with Plastic bags to keep water out, hose it all down w/ WD-40 to prevent further corrosion. Hard to clean bits you can use mineral spirits.

Hopping your Interior and windshield are OK, else this is going to get really $$$

Dave

 

Windshield and interior not affected at all. Its definitely going to be expensive. I had just completed an intake refresh a couple of years prior. Most of the rubber bits were burned to include items under the intake. I got new/used wiring harnesses during the 1/2 off sale with 928s International. I also got a hood and fender but haven't had them delivered yet. When I began removing parts from the engine, it seemed as if it would be easy to put it back together. I am weary of the electrical gremlins I may run into after re-assembly is complete.

I'm still not thoroughly convinced that I shouldn't part it out. It was running so good prior to the fire. I had driven it to DC from Memphis about 6 times. It went to San Antonio once and loved every minute of the long distance trips.