Kiwi'79

G'day Scott,

Welcome!!!! I hear your excitement !!! Great stuff!!!

I am only a few months into my ownership, and i have learned a lot already thanks to these guys.

The first thing I did was curb my immediate desire to drive the streets in wild abandon, (even though I had to drive her 800kms back to my place).

I am,by nature a risk taker, however, there is a line between that and stupidity.

So I made a plan (won't bore you with all the details here)

What will destroy my car (and my marriage...)
What will hinder its reliability (I want to be able to jump in a go, without having a tow truck follow me)
What will curtail my enjoyment (having a tow truck follow me...)


Fuels lines top of the list for me, I have a non interference engine, therefore timing belt won't end my car just my day, (it's not due, but on the peace of mind list)
Power steering/other engine bay flammable liquid lines.

ad infinitum...

I am about to post a new topic on electrical corrosion (not scientific, just confirmation of what the guys on this forum have alluded to many times) so I won't double up on that.

However... Your GREEN WIRE looks completely botched, in my mind its like a fishing line, the more knots the greater the chance of it getting away...
I am assuming that it is in fact THE green wire.

The corrosion in that cable running to the jump post will not be helping matters, which will suggest other green gremlins lurk elsewhere.

I look forward to reading on your progress, and learning more at the same time!!!

Steve

Dave928S

Thanks Jim .... I think I'll go back to my initial guess of adjustable ride height at the front then, unless you or anyone else has any clue. Seems to me that the correct description gets lost in translation with some options ... this being an example.

drooman

That main + cable in the engine wiring harness is likely to look like that all the way down to the Alternator. Ask me how I know. Plan on a complete engine wiring harness rebuild. It's not that bad of a job just lots of hours and patience required to get it out, re-build it, and get it back in.

ALKada

Contact SeanR (here on Rennlist) and order you a new engine harness. Then give Rog100 a call at 928sRus.com for the parts needed to change out the fuel lines and injector hoses. That would be where I would start.

skpyle

I second that. If your engine harness is that corroded, new is the way to go. A new harness is around $700 from Sean. Worth every penny. YOU might be able to fabricate a new engine harness from scratch or repair yours, but it would not be as good as a new harness from Sean.

+2 on the fuel hoses and a injector lines. As well, if your injectors are shot, Greg Brown offers adapter caps to let you use more modern 4 hole injectors in place of your stock injectors. Worth searching and learning about...


Seth K. Pyle

drscottsmith

I think we are all on the same thought lines...engine harness, fuel lines, injector hoses.

The harness is a must do - now to figure out the best plan for removal. If I am going to have to take 1/2 of the intake off to do that job, might as well do the top end refresh...and look at the adaptors for the FI as well. That might be a better job than sending the originals off. Based on the smell from the gas tank filler, my guess is the injectors are pretty gummed up.

I have seen a couple of posts on here and other boards about rebuilding the front engine harness with more a more modern, waterproof connector that is cheaper (for the 14-pin). I believe it was a GM connector. Any of you guys tried that route? If it took 30 years to get the way it is now, it may be better to keep it original. This car will probably never be at the level of detail it was in 1983 when it left the dealership, so originality may not be as big of a deal on this first 'go round...

I can't believe the brakes even grab based on the looks of the master cylinder.

Any other thoughts? You guys are great and thank you for reading and responding!

-scott

skpyle

Weather-pack connector is a nice idea, but would be quite an undertaking to implement.

Scott, before you go too far off the deep end, stop and breathe.

Start taking notes of your observations. Start taking notes of what suggestions/recomendations you receive.

More importantly, start catalogging what parts and materials you will need. Spread sheet is a good idea.

You really want to get a picture of costs, because this is going to get expensive quickly. Especially if you are going into a top end refresh.

For example, since April, I have spent over $23,000 on the Red Witch, including the $8500 purchase price. And, I am one of the ghetto poor boys. Ask Rob Edwards what was spent on Minerva...

Have an honest conversation with yourself on time and ability versus cost. You can rebuild/repair your engine harness for less than what a new one will cost from Sean Ratts. However, it will take you quite awhile. New harness is plug and play.

I am not preaching at you, or trying to treat you as a rookie. I have seen some of your searching posts on the 944 forum. You restore old pinball machines. You are not an idiot.
I am just offering perspective on the mistakes I have made and lessons I have learned.

You have an AWESOME new toy. Enjoy it!!!


Seth K. Pyle

drscottsmith

NO harm done at all - I am not brave enough to ask Rob about Minerva! I appreciate all of your thoughts, ideas and learning experiences - keep 'em coming!

I have a little (well, getting bigger all the time) spreadsheet rolling of needed items I am gathering from everyone's posts and looking more in detail at what needs to be done (as I am taking bunches of pics!). I think I am just trying to avoid duplicating work...so my thought is if I need to replace that harness before I even attempt to start the car, and that is going to require removal of parts of the top end, then might as well kill two birds with one stone.

I would REALLY like to get the motor running before ordering anything, so I can plan the order better and prioritize a long-term plan. I would think a cleaning of the engine harness, as well as all the grounds, would at least maybe allow it to run, and then I can put the harness on the list to do.

Pinball machines - yes sir! The older mechanical machines prior to 1977/78, may just be more complex than even the 928 (at least parts of it!). HaHa!

Thoughts?

-scott

James Bailey

Correct BEFORE getting too far into a "restoration" you need to KNOW if the engine is O K , if the clutch is O K and if the transmission will up and down shift... do the very minimum to get it to run. Then based on what you have you can knowledgably develop a long term plan. Note that Skpyle has already "invested" about $14,500 on his in a very few MONTHS ....
Also if you have never driven a 16 valve 928 it is a good idea to be sure that it lives up to your performance expectations........ before you spend more money than you ever thought possible.

Majestic Moose

I have an 83 as well and did a full front end, engine out, refresh over the summer. I started a little better off with a running and driving car. I agree with the above points in that you should do the minimum to get it running and go from there. If I read correctly, engine turns over so you can check compression before anything else.
Then drop the tank, clean it out and change fuel filter, clean the grounds around the car and 14 pin connector, and all the little troubleshooting to get it running.
If successful, I recommend getting the car off the ground and take your time to inspect everything that needs to be done. The list will be long but you have all winter. Put replacement fuel and power steering hoses at the top of that list.

Best of luck to you

drscottsmith

Thanks all for your help! I am moving this discussion to a new thread to document the resurrection!

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l#post13685553