drscottsmith

I am moving the discussion to a new thread since it is now off the trailer and in the driveway/garage.

Again thanks to all who have been discussing ideas with me so far. Got a fair amount of work done last night in between helping my daughter practice trombone and throwing football with son, and helping wife get dinner together.

Based on everyone's advice step one is to get the motor running and then see what else needs to be done. This will help get a plan together. To accomplish this, the electrics have to be sorted. They are surprisingly better than what I thought.

So last night I was able to get several grounding points clean. I pulled the CE panel for a good cleanup as well. Several incorrectly sized fuses to be replaced after a trip to the parts store. Tonight hopefully will see the rest of the ground points cleaned up and the CE panel reinstalled. Fuel pump is not getting any power (before the cleaning) so that is step one.

It is interesting to me to see that only three of the connectors in the 14-pin actually have corrosion...also interesting is that my pin placement does not seem to match any pics or pinouts of others on the internet. Time to verify with the wiring diagram, but my guess is that I am the first person in 30+ years to disconnect that connector!

So just to prevent shorts, I re-insulated the frayed wires at the connector with new heat shrink, but they are still nasty underneath and the harness will be replaced. Again, this is just a stopgap to get the motor running.

Thoughts welcome as always!

drscottsmith

Here are a few more from cleaning last night. So far I have hit the jump post, front of engine grounds (no pics), hatch area grounds.

I have to do the under car engine grounds and finish CE area tonight.

Surprised at how clean most ground areas actually were - good sign as corrosion was nonexistent - just some minor oxidation from over the years. But as we all know, anything less than polished metal = problems.

-scott

Chris Lockhart

Hey Scott, congrats again. First thing I would do is clean it from top to bottom, engine bay, undercarriage, etc... so you can actually see to inspect. Then as has already been said, ensure the engine/trans work before getting to far. Make sure you have a helper with a fire bottle standing by, and NOT a dry chemical one. (Horrible mess) As my schedule allows I'm willing to come help.

Mrmerlin

Good luck on your new project, of greater concern is the green wire this will usually stop about 90 percent of cars from running

drscottsmith

Stan -

From what I can gather looking at other's cars, it looks like someone cut the AMP connectors off of the Green wire (jump post side) and just tried to hardwire it...am I correct?

-scott

Callum_GT

congrats on you purchase, hope you getting it running soon

Dave928S

Yes ... that wire is ugly and definitely needs replacement.

drscottsmith

Thanks Callum!

Ok...looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like the dashed line between the Ign module and the distributor is the green wire.

Problem is, the diagram does not show the termination points and connectors, so I am not sure if my question back to Stan is correct or not.

Can someone help me verify the actual path of the green wire with connector points through the car?

Thanks -

-scott

Rob Edwards

It plugs into a 2- pin AMP connector by the jump post and runs along the front of the engine, over to the distributor, where it plugs into the distributor body.





At distributor:

drscottsmith

Thanks Rob - that makes perfect sense.

What happens in the other direction...from the AMP connector backwards (away from the distributor)?

-scott

Dave928S

^^^ It leaves the rear of the distributor, goes down to the main harness bundle, and then follows that under the radiator hoses across to the other side of the motor, where it meets with the AMP connector. A few loose cable ties just to stop it floating around, once it's all neatly in place, with sufficient slack at each end.

drscottsmith

Dave -

From the AMP connector, then the wire goes into a loom (Larger harness) and goes where? Through the firewall at some point? I am not sure where the ignition module lives (yet)?

-scott

Rob Edwards

It (the 'TSZ switch unit', or transistor ignition unit) is mounted under the 14 pin connector, you can see it in your 4th pic in post #1. The AMP connector dives into the harness that runs to its 6 pin connector, so the only place the green wire connects to is the TSZ box.

I'm not sure where the L-jet brain lives, on an '83. Pin 16 from the TSZ box goes to the CE panel at pin 07, feeding a couple of things along the way- the tach, pin 31b of relays IX and XVII (fuel pump relay), and pin 1 of the L-jet brain via connector W6 of the CE panel.

drscottsmith

Perfect - thanks Rob!!

Someone obviously has cut both side of the AMP connector off on my car, so to fix correctly, I am going to not only replace the 'Green Wire' that everyone normally replaces, but also the "rest" of the wire from the AMP connector to the TSZ - I will probably run the new wire outside of the harness and cover with a new loom or something...YUCK, but it will be a bear to try and pull a new line through the existing harness.

Thanks again -

-scott

drscottsmith

First off, have to say hats off to a great fellow Rennlister and Owner - met skpyle today and got to see the Red Witch. He loaded me up with stuff to help ease into 928 ownership and I am grateful. Always great to have folks close by to ask for help and be able to help!

So - buttoned up all the electrical cleaning this evening. All grounds cleaned and repairs made at jump post. CE Panel will go back in tomorrow.

Got ambitious and dropped the fuel tank tonight to clean. All went pretty well. Again, very pleased with the condition of things (the basket, etc.) No major rust and all the rubber strips are still on it. It will be cleaned and repainted before reinstallation. Gas in filter (none in tank) was nasty.

The problem: I thought according to Dwayne's excellent writeup (thanks Dwayne!) that the sender unit just lifted out of the tank. Mine has something (I assume the float that slides up and down with the gas level) attached to it and it will not come out of the hole.

Please advise.

Thanks -
-scott