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Recommended oil viscosity?

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Old 08-11-2016, 09:31 AM
  #106  
Rocinante
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Earlier in this thread (post #1), I asked which oil came with our cars. I'm assuming it was 20W50 (the oil currently in my '82).

Apologies if it's already been answered, but does anyone know what was the oil viscosity that Porsche filled our cars with at the factory (for export to the US)? ...and did that change over the 928's production run? Would there have been any TSBs about alternate suitable viscosities depending on the car's operating climate?

Enquiring minds want to know...
Old 08-11-2016, 11:17 AM
  #107  
hlee96
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Based on Sean's mobil 1 oil chart, any reason not to use V-twin 20w50 that is advertised only for motorcycles? They are heavier in weight and has higher phos and zinc contents.

-hoi
Originally Posted by SeanR
That's just it Doc, lots of people say "no problems using whatever it is i'm using" and these same people have never opened up an engine and seen what crappy oil does to bearings and other rotational parts.

But instead of listening to those that have practical knowledge (such as Bruce) they don't want to be wrong so they continue using what makes them feel better.

Example, dude on FB posts the very same question and we get the very same answers as here. One guy goes off about how Mobile 1 should never be used in any engine due to not enough ZDDP. He kept arguing that even the 15w-50 doesn't and I was an idiot for even recommending it. So I just posted up a nice little link blowing his rant away. I was put on ignore after that and everyone had a good laugh at him.

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...guide-2016.pdf
Old 08-11-2016, 12:11 PM
  #108  
Randy V
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Originally Posted by curtisr
This reference to Pat Buchanan's attempt at shaming Canada for not assisting with the attack on Iraq is entirely sensitive and respectful, IMHO, as it omitted "Soviet" which was part of the complete title for the True North in the view of the former Assistant to the President for Communications.

Had the author and transplanted Canuckistanian wanted to be truly insulting there would have been references to Canada as:
  • Canæda
  • Diet America
  • America Junior
  • a frozen wasteland where all the population crowd the southern border because they want nothing to do with the rest of it
  • every year, the tale of the "Great 1812 patriotic war against the imperialist Americans" is told and retold to small children until they cry
  • Canædia is exactly like the United States except without all of the entertainment, technology, culture, tolerable climates and guaranteed civil rights, which makes it, understandably so, an extremely boring country to live in
  • hated by the Westboro Baptist Church
  • Canædians think their beer is better than American beer
  • the slight difference in average IQs between the two country's populations are more than negated by Canadia's socialist education system which has ensured that most Canadians can do simple math. Canadians are especially good at doing simple math in order to calculate how much alcohol they are ingesting or how much tax they will pay. Using the metric system facilitates their ability to do basic math, so Canædians can also figure out whether or not they are driving over the speed limit in their rusty 928s or other form of conveyance

Source: https://encyclopediadramatica.se/Soviet_Canuckistan
Quite a treatise on how to properly insult a Canadian! Pretty much the best information contained within this entire thread.



I'm sure the OP is gravely injured.



My home town is the little grey blob in the red circle - right on the border!
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:23 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by hlee96
Based on Sean's mobil 1 oil chart, any reason not to use V-twin 20w50 that is advertised only for motorcycles? They are heavier in weight and has higher phos and zinc contents.

-hoi
What a great question. And I think the simple answer is 'be careful'.

I visited http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html and found a great deal of information about the differences between automotive and motorcycle oils. While the reverse of the question was the author's goal, there were a number of observations and conclusions that I found interesting. Specifically:

Motorcycle oil does NOT necessarily meet the API's most current standard for cars; namely, SN. As an example Mobil's VTwin meets the SJ rating (now obsolete) while Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 meets the newer but still obsolete SM rating.

Motorcycle oil sells at an average of 300 % of the price charged for car oil.

Car oil in a motorcycle is safe.

ZDDP is a "last line of defense" type additive, generally only coming into play under extremely severe conditions where actual metal-to-metal contact occurs within an engine, something that should never happen under normal operating conditions.
Old 08-11-2016, 12:26 PM
  #110  
GlenL
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At this point, I'm at a loss for the string of ALL CAPS that will properly express my bewilderment and frustration at how a simple questions can produce so much disinformation, angry rants and off-topic diatribes.

Read the owner's manual and do what it says. Put in 20w50, or 15w50 if that's what's available.

Have a nice day.

IBTL
Old 08-11-2016, 12:28 PM
  #111  
Rocinante
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Originally Posted by hlee96
Based on Sean's mobil 1 oil chart, any reason not to use V-twin 20w50 that is advertised only for motorcycles? They are heavier in weight and has higher phos and zinc contents.

-hoi
Dunno. Might want to consider Hacker's comments about high ZDDP in post #16.
Old 08-11-2016, 12:34 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by hlee96
Based on Sean's mobil 1 oil chart, any reason not to use V-twin 20w50 that is advertised only for motorcycles? They are heavier in weight and has higher phos and zinc contents.
As I stated before, you don't need more ZDDP just the amount that was in every oil prior to 2001, which is 1100-1200 ppm.

Air cooled engines are different animals altogether, not to mention the addition of additives for wet clutches in motorcycles.
Old 08-11-2016, 12:41 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by GlenL
At this point, I'm at a loss for the string of ALL CAPS that will properly express my bewilderment and frustration at how a simple questions can produce so much disinformation, angry rants and off-topic diatribes.

Read the owner's manual and do what it says. Put in 20w50, or 15w50 if that's what's available.

Have a nice day.

IBTL
Super User to the rescue!

Old 08-11-2016, 12:49 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Randy V
Super User to the rescue!
He forgot to tell us to stay off his lawn.
Old 08-11-2016, 01:06 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by Randy V
Super User to the rescue!

Speaking of off-topic posts and not using the search button, I have a question.

How is the type of user label determined, i.e. super user vs. addict vs. etc? And is there a list of of all the different user types?
Old 08-11-2016, 01:25 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by GT6ixer
Speaking of off-topic posts and not using the search button, I have a question.

How is the type of user label determined, i.e. super user vs. addict vs. etc? And is there a list of of all the different user types?
I can change your title to **** waffle if that makes you feel more special.
Old 08-11-2016, 01:54 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
That's great - whatever works for you....

A lifetime involved with the automotive repair industry I've seen the results of using cheap oil in cars that are otherwise well maintained and serviced on regular intervals.

I've also seen 944S/928 cams with pits with no explainable reason based on service records, except possible oil contents.

No offense, but a stock 8V 944 isn't exactly a "barn burner" that I would be concerned about either. Something like a 928GT with already suspect valvetrain with regards to cam wear....that's a different story.

I'm not sure I would be concerned with ZDDP levels with a stock US 16V 928 either, there simply isn't a whole lot of camshaft to lifter pressure compared to other cars with known issues.
But I fail to see the benefit of touting such opinions versus just sticking with an over all recommendation for 928's in general.

When in doubt I listen to the engine builders I know with experience in these engines versus rolling the dice to save $50 a year on motor oil.
With regards to cam pitting, cant that be partially due to engine RPM levels?
low RPM levels, generally, in automatics.
I also agree, for all that care about our cars, why reinvent the wheels by trying things that are not proven, and not use and do things that are.

After pulling that holbert engine and taking it apart, after it hadnt been apart since it was built 25 years ago, i was sold on the oil i was using after seeing the engine parts all looking like they were brand new! thats 120 racing hours as well as many street miles over 8 years of my ownership and 13 years before that by others.

Bottomline.... dont go cheap on the oil.. stay away from mobil 1 or vavoline VR1 if you track the car, and finally, change it often... enjoy!
Old 08-11-2016, 02:06 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
I can change your title to **** waffle if that makes you feel more special.
**** waffle syrup please.
Old 08-12-2016, 12:30 AM
  #119  
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Go Greyhounds!
Old 08-13-2016, 07:34 PM
  #120  
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Thanks. I picked up 8 quarts of Valvoline 20W50 VR1 today at my local O'Reilly's.

Got lucky. They had a sale sign for $4.99/qt, but the sale ended on June 28th. Since the sign was still up, the manager gave me the sale price. No complaints!


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