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Recommended oil viscosity?

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Old 08-08-2016, 09:41 PM
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GT6ixer
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Originally Posted by The Forgotten On
Trouble with the VR1 (my oil of choice) is that it has been outlawed in California and production has been stopped (what I have been told by every parts store I have visited).

Just stick with a good 15 or 20W 50 and you will be fine.
Stopped? I can buy it at O'Reilly's near my house right now.
Old 08-08-2016, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Consult the owners manual - find the viscosity which matches the average ambient temperature you plan on using your car.



The "high ZDDP" is grossly misunderstood. You want an oil that has the old standard prior to about 2002 or so which is 1100/1200ppm ZDDP. Almost every 15/20w-50 oil meets this. More difficult to find thinner oils with this level.

There are oils on the market with more ZDDP (like the air cooled motorcycle stuff) and more is not necessarily better. Stick with the "standard" for which these cars were designed, don't over do it.

Also, don't just dump in some ZDDP additive "just to be safe" - use a proper oil from the get go.


I've come across a number of 16V cars that have been running 5w-40 their whole life (like my 1980 with over 80k on the odo). I have yet to drive the car on a really hot day to report on what the oil pressure does. My 1981 threw a lifter clacking hissy fit when I tried 5w-40 many years ago.
My car has around 74,000 miles. Regardless of temperature, I'm seeing 2.5- 3 bar at idle and it goes to 5 bar by 1500 rpm. No clatter or unusual noises and the Rotella T6 has the correct zddp values. The hottest ambient I've driven in has been around 95 F.

Hugo
Old 08-08-2016, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy V
... So get down off yer high beaver.

I love it!
Old 08-08-2016, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by GT6ixer
Stopped? I can buy it at O'Reilly's near my house right now.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...sale_of_obsole

Interesting..I find it challenging to believe that Valvoline cant get it to meet -a- modern standard.
Old 08-08-2016, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by UpFixenDerPorsche
Let the oil pressure gauge guide you: should be up to pressure almost as soon as the engine fires, and be showing 5 Bar until the oil warms. When hot, should show 2-3 Bar at idle, and 4-5 Bar at 2000rpm, and 5 Bar over 2500 rpm. (In the WSM somewhere).
These numbers are optimistic, especially as cars age. The WSM states minimum 5 bar by 5000 rpm, which would be about 1 bar at idle hot. However, many 928's run much higher than that spec. Most cars running in summer heat with 50 weight oil are 1.5-2 bar idle and 5 bar between 3000-4000 rpm.


Old 08-08-2016, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedtoys
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...sale_of_obsole

Interesting..I find it challenging to believe that Valvoline cant get it to meet -a- modern standard.
So banned in CA but still in production.
Old 08-08-2016, 10:44 PM
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Just out of curiosity, is there anything wrong with using 0W 50? I'm thinking since it's the higher number (50) that indicates the viscosity at high temperatures, it should provide plenty of viscosity at high temps, but also circulate quickly on cold starts. Sticking with 15W 50 for now, since it's recommended in the owner's manual, but I doubt 0W 50 was even available back in the day.
Old 08-08-2016, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Snark Shark
Just out of curiosity, is there anything wrong with using 0W 50?
I don't know about 'wrong' per se but the greater the spread on the viscosity modifiers, the lower the viscosity index(in general), and reduced hot oil viscosity standard(again, in general). Also requires a greater percent by weight of the additive package so the base oil is stretched further by volume due to being taken up by the additive package. I suppose there might be some esoteric additive molecules that could be made to have a high VI while also having a wide thermal range, but it sounds expensive. Unlikely to find it in a bottle of dino oil on your shelf at WalMart.
Old 08-08-2016, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Snark Shark
Just out of curiosity, is there anything wrong with using 0W 50? I'm thinking since it's the higher number (50) that indicates the viscosity at high temperatures, it should provide plenty of viscosity at high temps, but also circulate quickly on cold starts. Sticking with 15W 50 for now, since it's recommended in the owner's manual, but I doubt 0W 50 was even available back in the day.
Every oil thread, eventually someone asks why they cant use something as thick as rubbing alcohol for motor oil.

The 928, the German Supercar, design by superior Germans.

Did not ask for 0 weight oil.
Old 08-08-2016, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Snark Shark
Just out of curiosity, is there anything wrong with using 0W 50? I'm thinking since it's the higher number (50) that indicates the viscosity at high temperatures, it should provide plenty of viscosity at high temps, but also circulate quickly on cold starts. Sticking with 15W 50 for now, since it's recommended in the owner's manual, but I doubt 0W 50 was even available back in the day.
YMMV... quite a lot....

I wouldn't even begin to consider it. In Phoenix I never use less than 20W50

Alan
Old 08-08-2016, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Snark Shark
Just out of curiosity, is there anything wrong with using 0W 50? I'm thinking since it's the higher number (50) that indicates the viscosity at high temperatures, it should provide plenty of viscosity at high temps, but also circulate quickly on cold starts. Sticking with 15W 50 for now, since it's recommended in the owner's manual, but I doubt 0W 50 was even available back in the day.
The wider the range between the cold and hot viscosity ratings requires a lot more additives to make the oil do this. As the additive packs break down, so does the oil's ability to keep its viscosity. My theory is to run a 15w50 or 20w50 and don't run the car hard until you see the oil pressure gauge start dropping off of the 5 bar at idle.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:15 PM
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Eva heard of "search"
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:33 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer
The wider the range between the cold and hot viscosity ratings requires a lot more additives to make the oil do this. As the additive packs break down, so does the oil's ability to keep its viscosity. My theory is to run a 15w50 or 20w50 and don't run the car hard until you see the oil pressure gauge start dropping off of the 5 bar at idle.
That may be. Looks like Mobil only offers 0W50 as "racing oil not recommended for street use". Supposed to change it after every race, perhaps.
Old 08-09-2016, 01:04 AM
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And bottom line is most oils will work just fine......
Old 08-09-2016, 01:53 AM
  #45  
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Okay guys, thanks for your help.

The jury's back, at least for me.

I read other similar threads until I almost got a headache...

Car service history in TX shows 20W50, so since GA has similar climate I will stick with that for now, unless I go with 15W40/50 for winter months here.



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