New GB fuel line starting issue
#1
Rennlist Member
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New GB fuel line starting issue
I recently replaced my "budget" hose clamp fuel line replacement from Roger with the top of the line Greg Brown re-routed alternative that goes to the damper. Pics attached. Naturally it took a little time for the engine to fire up due to the fuel filling up the line and reaching injectors.
Normally she fires up immediately,but since the new hose, I'm having to cycle the starting 2-3 times before she starts. Once running there is no problems and I see no issues at any speed.
It will start right up if stopped for a short time, ( hour) but any longer I have the problem.
No leaks, plenty of fuel. Any ideas?
Thanks
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Normally she fires up immediately,but since the new hose, I'm having to cycle the starting 2-3 times before she starts. Once running there is no problems and I see no issues at any speed.
It will start right up if stopped for a short time, ( hour) but any longer I have the problem.
No leaks, plenty of fuel. Any ideas?
Thanks
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#2
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Looks fine to me - IIRC you have new dampers and regulator?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#3
Former Vendor
Although it is tough to diagnosis cars from afar, it sounds like you might might have a fuel pressure problem (the system looses fuel pressure as it sits and then required the system to be re-primed the next time you go to start it.)
From your wording, it would seem that you think the new fuel line is the source of your starting problem. That is not the problem.
A fuel line simply moves fuel from one point to another point and will never cause a starting issue (unless it leaks fuel.) It does nothing to retain system pressure.
There are many sources for a fuel pressure loss. Injectors can leak, the fuel pressure regulator can not hold pressure (common), the check valve in the fuel pump can leak, etc. You need to do some tracing to figure out what the actual problem is.
I see your pictures. You installation is exactly as intended. You did well, except for the rounded nut on the fuel line in the chassis. Next time, use a 17mm metric "line wrench" which is designed to provide more surface area when loosening this type of nut.
From your wording, it would seem that you think the new fuel line is the source of your starting problem. That is not the problem.
A fuel line simply moves fuel from one point to another point and will never cause a starting issue (unless it leaks fuel.) It does nothing to retain system pressure.
There are many sources for a fuel pressure loss. Injectors can leak, the fuel pressure regulator can not hold pressure (common), the check valve in the fuel pump can leak, etc. You need to do some tracing to figure out what the actual problem is.
I see your pictures. You installation is exactly as intended. You did well, except for the rounded nut on the fuel line in the chassis. Next time, use a 17mm metric "line wrench" which is designed to provide more surface area when loosening this type of nut.
#4
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Marine928,
Did you ever determine/solve this issue? I am about to replace the 5 fuel lines in my 87 (3 GB and 2 Pcar). Trying to read all fuel line posts and get the courage up to tackle the job. I now have all tools, parts and Loctite 574. Did you use any 574 on the joints?
michael
Did you ever determine/solve this issue? I am about to replace the 5 fuel lines in my 87 (3 GB and 2 Pcar). Trying to read all fuel line posts and get the courage up to tackle the job. I now have all tools, parts and Loctite 574. Did you use any 574 on the joints?
michael
#6
Rennlist Member
good to check , as greg says, but I don't think that is the problem as well. I had a bad fuel check valve in the pump, but it would start up in a few cranks , even cold. never an issue with no line pressure to start. however, if you have a bad pump, that could be the issue (or bad regulator).
when its running, no problems with power or smoothness of torque as you accelerate on the freeway?
when its running, no problems with power or smoothness of torque as you accelerate on the freeway?
#7
Former Vendor
Marine928,
Did you ever determine/solve this issue? I am about to replace the 5 fuel lines in my 87 (3 GB and 2 Pcar). Trying to read all fuel line posts and get the courage up to tackle the job. I now have all tools, parts and Loctite 574. Did you use any 574 on the joints?
michael
Did you ever determine/solve this issue? I am about to replace the 5 fuel lines in my 87 (3 GB and 2 Pcar). Trying to read all fuel line posts and get the courage up to tackle the job. I now have all tools, parts and Loctite 574. Did you use any 574 on the joints?
michael
Use never seize on threads, unless you have a problem.
All lines are supplied with instructions, when they leave my shop. If you did not get instructions, call Mary at 714 879 9072 and ask her to send them to you.
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#8
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Thanks Greg.
Each of my GB fuel line bags have directions and only mention the never seize. Should I use a silver type?
I read on a few threads including this one...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-question.html
...that 574 should be used on the ball-cup joint as a "just-in-case" and ensure a tight high pressure fuel system. That being said, I trust your judgement on anything 928...so I will just use the anti-seize on the threads during install, jump the relay, and do the the high tech finger smell test on each connection.
Thanks again!!!
Each of my GB fuel line bags have directions and only mention the never seize. Should I use a silver type?
I read on a few threads including this one...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-question.html
...that 574 should be used on the ball-cup joint as a "just-in-case" and ensure a tight high pressure fuel system. That being said, I trust your judgement on anything 928...so I will just use the anti-seize on the threads during install, jump the relay, and do the the high tech finger smell test on each connection.
Thanks again!!!
#9
Thanks Greg.
Each of my GB fuel line bags have directions and only mention the never seize. Should I use a silver type?
I read on a few threads including this one...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-question.html
...that 574 should be used on the ball-cup joint as a "just-in-case" and ensure a tight high pressure fuel system. That being said, I trust your judgement on anything 928...so I will just use the anti-seize on the threads during install, jump the relay, and do the the high tech finger smell test on each connection.
Thanks again!!!
Each of my GB fuel line bags have directions and only mention the never seize. Should I use a silver type?
I read on a few threads including this one...
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-question.html
...that 574 should be used on the ball-cup joint as a "just-in-case" and ensure a tight high pressure fuel system. That being said, I trust your judgement on anything 928...so I will just use the anti-seize on the threads during install, jump the relay, and do the the high tech finger smell test on each connection.
Thanks again!!!
So I guess the short answer is silver will work just fine .