L_perm

I have my engine hanging on a stand in my garage. I've been thinking I'd like to have my tranny rebuilt, and now seems like a good time to remove it. The problem is that I only have jack stands. What should I do?

I'm in Charlotte, NC. Is there somewhere you recommend to which I can flatbed the car for removal? I hate to pay someone else to do the work (and enjoy doing it myself), but I don't think I can get it out myself due to lack of ground clearance and, of course, no tranny jack.

Once it's out, I'm putting it in a big cooler and shipping it to Greg B.

How would you guys and gals handle this situation if it were yours?

Thanks,
Louis

linderpat

lots of guys do this job alone. Just get a decent floor jack and use that to support the tranny while you drop it out. You must of course drop the exhaust first. Anyway, do a search and you will see lots of examples. Floor jacks are inexpensive and readily available at most auto parts stores and places like Walmart and sears.

linderpat

Also, I believe the rear end apparatus has to drop out first as well. Can't remember though on that.

L_perm

Thanks Ed. I have a low-profile jack. I guess I'm not used to using my jack stands at their full height, but it seems like the clearance--for the floor jack and tranny just wouldn't be there. I guess I'm underestimating how high my jack stands can go. Plus, the car is parked on a slight incline. Honestly, I don't know if I'd be willing to get under it with the jack stands up that high. I've done all the engine work with the front on ramps.

I guess I could take the wheels off and stack two under the front cross member and two under the rear bumper. And, borrow a couple extra jack stands for good measure.

atb

The tranny jack is a life saver for this job, especially on the re-install. I'd seriously consider investing in one and consider it part of the cost of the tranny rebuild. I've dropped my tranny in my garage on jack stands with a floor jack. Certainly doable, but the tranny Jack makes a huge difference.

davek9

I /we use four 6 ton jack stands get it high enough to be safe (1/2 way extended?) jack in two stages, starting from the front, then back, then front and back (uses the center cross braces for both).
Without the engine the front will be easy.

Get a chain around the trans to suspend it from the rear sway bar, remove the brake calipers and suspend them from the car. (you will have to disconnect any wires)
Place a floor jack under the rear cross brace, Unbolt the rear shocks from inside the hatch, unbolt trans mounts and then the suspension from the car.

The entire rear suspension w/ the e brake cable can be lowered and swung out toward the left side out of the way.

Rent a trans Jack however we have done it w/ a floor jack and helpers, lower the trans down and out.

The above are the basic steps, not details

awilli6

Dwayne has a detailed write up on removing the transmission

Ad0911

I don't think I can contribute much to what is already written but perhaps my inexperience and the fact that I found it an easy job to do on my own (yes, me, myself and I), with car on jack stands will give you the confidence that it is not very hard to do. But I did'nt follow the book much. The exhaust was already removed, with the heat shields. Then I removed the rear bumper to do some preservative work on the area behind it. and replaced the mounting threads of the bumpers with SS ones welded on the brackets. Then I removed the fuel tank to be able to renew the fuel return line that runs on top of it, and the fuel line that runs between the neck and the tank. Also good idea!
I removed the rear suspension with drive shafts because the rear wheel bearings needed replacing and the drive shafts needed new CV boots. I also fixed the handbrake assembly and renewed the bushings in the rear suspension that are mounted in the cross member. Good idea! The old ones came out all by themselves without any help!
Next step was to lower the transmission, still fixed to the cross member, together with the TT. The TT needed new bearings and couplings to the shifter rod so good timing! I lowered the gearbox with a floor jack and the front of the TT with blocks, taking one away step by step. Later I bought a used jack that is meant to be used for motor cycles for EUR 50. This gives much better balance so more relaxed work during the "marriage" of getting the gearbox, TT and cross member back into the car again.

mark kibort

suspension and transmission just drop down using a common jack holding it up and a safety chain just to stablize. its amazing how easy it comes out.
leave everything attached..... maybe crack all bolts while everthing is mounted (drive shaft, CV joint stuff)
then it all comes out as one package

jeff spahn

It's easy.

fraggle

I also used an atv jack, got it from harbor freight. Car on jack stands.

L_perm

Wow! Thanks for all the help guys! I was looking at the WSM, and didn't realize the rear suspension could drop out so "easily." I have new shocks and springs to install anyway. I'll look at the bushings, boots, etc.

Thanks again!

MainePorsche

Job can be done relatively easily on jack stands. I removed and replaced a transmission essentially by myself (teenage son helped a little). I had the car on lifters and jack stands at there max extension. I had three jack (mine and two I borrowed for the job) and the all important transmission jack adapter. The jack adapter most the most important piece you'll needed if you DIY. Label all your suspension bolts that hold it into the body - they're not all the same length. The hardest part I found is getting the transmission off the torque tube. You want to angle the torque tube down as little as possible so as not to stress it to much, and the transmission doesn't want to leave its attachment to easily. It took a little banging on the bellhops of the torque converter to move it backwards. Getting the new transmission back on is much easier. I used ratchet straps, and it slid on easily. I had a thread on my job. The first pages were devoted to a mistake I made with the brake calipers, but the rest is all transmission job stuff. I also included a pic of a transmission jack adapter. It fits nicely into a good standard jack and works well. It is not expensive. I got mine from Northern Tool - google transmission jack adapters.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...placement.html

Bertrand Daoust

Here it is.
Hope this will help.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...re-w-pics.html

MainePorsche

Also, have enough red and blue Loctite and get the Optimoly (I'll call it anti-seize) from Roger. It is what the WSM recommends for the torque tube splines when you fit the transmission on it. It is a little pricey, but Greg Brown and the WSM call for it - Greg's word was enough for me. Also (again), there is a video in the beginning of my transmission replacement thread that Dean Fuller posted for me. It was very helpful for me to see what I was going to do. I did make my own obsessive-compulsive adjustments to the operation, but it is not really a PITA job. Only two thing I remember were somewhat comfounding - 1. knocking the old transmission off the torque tube and 2. re-attaching the rear pinch bolt around the union of the trans to the torque tube - Stan (MrMerlin recommended fashioning a wire hanger to help, and it really worked like a charm.
Best Wishes with the job. Start a thread on it and you'll get good help here.