Rear suspension pin conical washer help
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
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I've read many threads on removal of the rear suspension pins for a shock refresh. Pleased to report that the pins are out after only a few hours effort, I could only draw the pins forward as the rear nut was the only one to spin.
Now for my query:
I've only one conical washer come out of each side, the hub carrier is concave on the forward face and flat on the rear. Is the conical washer just stuck, does it matter if it is, or is that a normal config? I was expecting two conical washers, two end washers and one intermediate washer (I have all these bar one conical).
'88 S4 auto
Forward face with cone washer
![Name: 20151025_121033.jpg
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Rear face without cone washer and no recess
![Name: 20151025_121045.jpg
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TIA
Now for my query:
I've only one conical washer come out of each side, the hub carrier is concave on the forward face and flat on the rear. Is the conical washer just stuck, does it matter if it is, or is that a normal config? I was expecting two conical washers, two end washers and one intermediate washer (I have all these bar one conical).
'88 S4 auto
Forward face with cone washer
![Name: 20151025_121033.jpg
Views: 205
Size: 501.2 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/1224087d1501517668-rear-suspension-pin-conical-washer-help-20151025_121033.jpg)
Rear face without cone washer and no recess
![Name: 20151025_121045.jpg
Views: 204
Size: 288.8 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/1224088d1501517668-rear-suspension-pin-conical-washer-help-20151025_121045.jpg)
TIA
#2
Team Owner
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from the great picture it appears the rear cone washer is fused to the hub carrier,
you can clearly see the different metals of the opening.
I would leave the cone washer in position and put anti seize on the pin and put it back together.
you can clearly see the different metals of the opening.
I would leave the cone washer in position and put anti seize on the pin and put it back together.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
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My thoughts too, it's the same on each side which is a little weird. Also the cone washer on the front stands proud of the face whereas the rear is flush.
Either way there's no recess for a cone washer.
#4
Nordschleife Master
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Wow... Lots of corrosion or something on those parts. Tell me you're not driving it joyously through the surf along the beach.
I'd break the cone washers loose and then lube it all well with standard, silver-colored anti-seize or synthetic grease.
You've got the right washers, at least. Many cars have them "lost" following repairs or put back out-of-order. Check the PET for a diagram.
Also, check the pins for straightness while they're out. And I'd get the other nut off the pin or, at least, put them back with the frozen nut towards the rear. It's easier to get them out that way for next time. And there's always a next time!
I'd break the cone washers loose and then lube it all well with standard, silver-colored anti-seize or synthetic grease.
You've got the right washers, at least. Many cars have them "lost" following repairs or put back out-of-order. Check the PET for a diagram.
Also, check the pins for straightness while they're out. And I'd get the other nut off the pin or, at least, put them back with the frozen nut towards the rear. It's easier to get them out that way for next time. And there's always a next time!
#5
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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#6
Rennlist Member
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Agreed, same happens here when people drive cars in Winter & Salt and don't rinse the under-body weekly and us an anti-corrosive spray.
Betting the Shocks would no longer be adjustable too![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Lucky you were able to at least get the Pin out w/o damage.
Betting the Shocks would no longer be adjustable too
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Lucky you were able to at least get the Pin out w/o damage.
#7
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Shocks are no longer adjustable, or damping! That's why the pins are out. For the UK that's no considered bad corrosion, mostly limited to the shock and spring which are history. There's a lot of spray on Waxoyl which isn't pretty.
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#9
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We're agreed the rear conical washer is fused to the hub carrier. Is there any advantage in freeing it off and regreasing prior to assembly, should they rotate?
I've made light attempts to remove it with no success, so it will require force to dislodge.
I've made light attempts to remove it with no success, so it will require force to dislodge.
#10
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Weather and roads much worse up here in Scotland and as a result my suspension is in worse looking condition than this. Once you have replaced yours you may want to investigate oil based products like Acf50 or corrosionx as opposed to wax based wax oil. I'm using Acf50 corrosion block which is supposed to last about 2 years but I top up any time I have the car raised. It can be washed off with degreaser and won't leave a lot of gooey build up like wax. Also supposed to penetrate existing corrosion as opposed to locking it in like wax.
How badly corroded are the springs? Mine are corroded too but was thinking I may get away with having them powder coated
How badly corroded are the springs? Mine are corroded too but was thinking I may get away with having them powder coated
#11
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#12
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Weather and roads much worse up here in Scotland and as a result my suspension is in worse looking condition than this. Once you have replaced yours you may want to investigate oil based products like Acf50 or corrosionx as opposed to wax based wax oil. I'm using Acf50 corrosion block which is supposed to last about 2 years but I top up any time I have the car raised. It can be washed off with degreaser and won't leave a lot of gooey build up like wax. Also supposed to penetrate existing corrosion as opposed to locking it in like wax.
How badly corroded are the springs? Mine are corroded too but was thinking I may get away with having them powder coated
How badly corroded are the springs? Mine are corroded too but was thinking I may get away with having them powder coated
I'm sure they'd clean up, but I want to sharpen things up a little. The GAZ Gold coilovers seem to offer the compromise between price and quality, also the springs are 2.25 so easier to fit. I've opted for 500/350 springs and shocks valved to suit.
These are the old ones.
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#13
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#14
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http://www.gazcoilovers.com/porsche-...kit-p-405.html
#15
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I'm not familiar with these. Do you have a pic or link? Found this:
http://www.gazcoilovers.com/porsche-...kit-p-405.html
http://www.gazcoilovers.com/porsche-...kit-p-405.html